Here's the 10EE I picked up in Pueblo, Colorado for a price I don't dare to say. It is currently getting needed attention before I try turning something. Despite the negatives about this lathe, I am still very excited to get it usable (and trying to focus on the positives).
FIRST, thanks to you here on PM who have provided VOLUMES of information on how to use, service, rescue, refurbish, repair and retrofit these lathes.
My personal thanks to Cal Haines for this post: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/10ee-no-exciter-voltage-257346/
I was able to get the exciter on mine to work after some serious flashing with a car battery, replacing some crumbling wires and cleaning the exciter innards.
The 10EE is an early square dial, made in November 1945. It's drive is the piggyback exciter style MG unit. It has taper attachment that looks good, and just one sloppy repaint. The ways look and feel exceptional (no ridge anywhere) but I'm sure the carriage has it's share of ware. The gap between carriage and flat (tailstock) way is 0.003...at least it isn't touching yet, right?
I am currently flushing the headstock and refilling, plus making new sight glasses and gaskets. My '54 Series 60 sight glasses are glass; these ones are plastic. I just turned one of the new sights (plexiglass) today after work, and it turned out great.
Someday I will repaint, but for now I just want to use it!
HERE is my first big question: Is 0.00015 OK for spindle runout? (Bearings sound fine). That is at the cam lock nose. The inner taper is more like 0.0002. And this runout was much worse when I first checked. It started at 0.0009 but as a last ditch effort, I decided to mess with preload. I read and read and read posts about people trying to adjust preload, feeling any success would be unlikely.
And after opening up the headstock, I saw obvious proof someone had already given the preload bearing screw a whack, which left me thinking no chance for any improvement. But I decided to try anyway, and started rapping it tighter with a punch and hammer (carefully). This made it worse, up to 0.0012! So I tried loosening, then creeping back up. here's what I got:
After multiple baby taps (and cold sweats) I decided to stop when I reached 0.00015 Hey, that puts me at 150 millionths!
As far as pulling on a dowel against the spindle bore, I can get around 0.0008 play but it springs back.
Honestly, it is OK to run an EE with that amount of runout...right?
As is probably obvious, I am no pro. Just paranoid. And for my redneck skills, 0.00015 runout is BIG improvement compared to my other lathes. Even my worn out Series 60 (which RULES) has much more. Any advice appreciated!
Here's the Sheldon my 10EE is replacing, on it's way to a new owner.
FIRST, thanks to you here on PM who have provided VOLUMES of information on how to use, service, rescue, refurbish, repair and retrofit these lathes.
My personal thanks to Cal Haines for this post: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/10ee-no-exciter-voltage-257346/
I was able to get the exciter on mine to work after some serious flashing with a car battery, replacing some crumbling wires and cleaning the exciter innards.
The 10EE is an early square dial, made in November 1945. It's drive is the piggyback exciter style MG unit. It has taper attachment that looks good, and just one sloppy repaint. The ways look and feel exceptional (no ridge anywhere) but I'm sure the carriage has it's share of ware. The gap between carriage and flat (tailstock) way is 0.003...at least it isn't touching yet, right?
I am currently flushing the headstock and refilling, plus making new sight glasses and gaskets. My '54 Series 60 sight glasses are glass; these ones are plastic. I just turned one of the new sights (plexiglass) today after work, and it turned out great.
Someday I will repaint, but for now I just want to use it!
HERE is my first big question: Is 0.00015 OK for spindle runout? (Bearings sound fine). That is at the cam lock nose. The inner taper is more like 0.0002. And this runout was much worse when I first checked. It started at 0.0009 but as a last ditch effort, I decided to mess with preload. I read and read and read posts about people trying to adjust preload, feeling any success would be unlikely.
And after opening up the headstock, I saw obvious proof someone had already given the preload bearing screw a whack, which left me thinking no chance for any improvement. But I decided to try anyway, and started rapping it tighter with a punch and hammer (carefully). This made it worse, up to 0.0012! So I tried loosening, then creeping back up. here's what I got:
After multiple baby taps (and cold sweats) I decided to stop when I reached 0.00015 Hey, that puts me at 150 millionths!
As far as pulling on a dowel against the spindle bore, I can get around 0.0008 play but it springs back.
Honestly, it is OK to run an EE with that amount of runout...right?
As is probably obvious, I am no pro. Just paranoid. And for my redneck skills, 0.00015 runout is BIG improvement compared to my other lathes. Even my worn out Series 60 (which RULES) has much more. Any advice appreciated!
Here's the Sheldon my 10EE is replacing, on it's way to a new owner.