Hole layout for D1-6 spindle?

Artfrombama · Jan 31, 2017

I'm having to make a chuck adapter to use my 12" Horton 4 jaw independent chuck to my C Monarch. Does anyone have the hole layout for the D1-6 spindle? I know the studs are on a 5.25" hole pattern but am in the dark on where to put the lock screws?
Thanks!

Monarchist · Jan 31, 2017

Artfrombama said:
I'm having to make a chuck adapter to use my 12" Horton 4 jaw independent chuck to my C Monarch. Does anyone have the hole layout for the D1-6 spindle? I know the studs are on a 5.25" hole pattern but am in the dark on where to put the lock screws?
Thanks!

D1-6 adapters are around, new, at competitive prices WITH new camlock studs. One of mine is about 11" in diameter. Your Horton 'should' have a spigot recess a good deal smaller than its OD. Six inches or so? Not many of those chucks were meant to have an adapter plate as covered the entire back to max body OD.

Studs are not easy to make properly - that cutout is a cam profile, after all, not 'round'.
Price those studs loose, and you should find it cheaper to just order the backplate complete.

Used ones have all been good, too, but I have had to buy studs for several, so ended not saving, even with just a 3-pin D1-3.

Bill

johnoder · Jan 31, 2017

Assume you are centered on the pin hole at 270 degrees (bottom center). I.E., one of the six big tapped holes

The lock screw hole is .562 away on an angle of 166 degrees 14 minutes (up and to left)

It is 5/16-18 with a 11/32 deep 1/2" c'bore

The 5/16-18 thread is further relieved 1/8 deep at body dia below bottom of c'bore

Per ASA/ASME B5.9 Spindle Noses

TDegenhart · Jan 31, 2017

You will also be able to find the needed dimensions in Machinery's Handbook.

Tom

Artfrombama · Jan 31, 2017

Monarchist said:
D1-6 adapters are around, new, at competitive prices WITH new camlock studs. One of mine is about 11" in diameter. Your Horton 'should' have a spigot recess a good deal smaller than its OD. Six inches or so?

7" recess diameter, 5.625 x 4 bolt circle. Will need to be at least 2" thick or will need to cut down the threads on the studs on at least two.

Not many of those chucks were meant to have an adapter plate as covered the entire back to max body OD.

Studs are not easy to make properly - that cutout is a cam profile, after all, not 'round'.
Price those studs loose, and you should find it cheaper to just order the backplate complete.

Used ones have all been good, too, but I have had to buy studs for several, so ended not saving, even with just a 3-pin D1-3.

Bill

Haven't found anything yet that'll work.

Artfrombama · Jan 31, 2017

TDegenhart said:
You will also be able to find the needed dimensions in Machinery's Handbook.

Tom

Geez, so obvious duh!

Monarchist · Jan 31, 2017

Artfrombama said:
Geez, so obvious duh!

There isn't really any stress on the locking screws, so not uber-critical.

They're only there to insure that once you have adjusted each 'working' stud, it stays in range, yet still has enough rotation allowed to align with - rather than resist - the locking cam as it is pulled-in.

If, for example, the 'device' on D1-X mount was very seldom swapped, they wouldn't need to be there at all. One could hand-set the studs, they'll go nowhere once cammed-in.

Bill

LKeithR · Feb 1, 2017

TDegenhart said:
...You will also be able to find the needed dimensions in Machinery's Handbook...

Nothing in my version (23). Is it in later versions?

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