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  1. #1
    oliverarn's Avatar
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    Default How to idenitfy original 10EE chucks

    I am trying to get back to my 10 EE project and am looking for a couple of chuckís . I donít have the funds right now for new ones so I have been looking around for suitable used ones. Unless I get lucky and find them at a auction I think e-bay will be my only source. After looking through the past posts it seems that the original 10EE chucks were a 6" Cushman 3-jaw and 8" Skinner 4-jaw are forged steel and lightened. Is that correct?
    So my question is how would I identify the correct chucks on ebay? Is there a part # or some other way to identify the correct chucks? My main concern is getting a chuck that is rated for the speed of the Monarch.
    Thanks
    Ron

  2. #2
    Steve in SoCal's Avatar
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    One fairly easy way to confirm OE type chucks are; the direct mount, none of the 3 or 4 jaw chucks originally supplied had back plates. The four jaws would all have lightning holes, I think. I do have a 8" 4 jaw with a direct mount that is not lightened, it did not come with my lathe. I can also say that the 6" 4 jaw Cushman's came in two styles, my lathe had the light jaw version with it and I picked up a heavy jaw a while back. I have not seen one on ebay for a while but there were also Cushman 6 jaw direct mount chucks.

    Steve

  3. #3
    Cal Haines is online now Titanium
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    Many, if not all, 10EE chucks (and other tooling like face plates and steady rests) were stamped with the machine's serial number. If you find something like EE12345 or EE-7890 stamped on the mounting side of the chuck, it was most likely sold with a 10EE.

    Cal

  4. #4
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    "... it seems that the original 10EE chucks were a 6" Cushman 3-jaw and 8" Skinner 4-jaw are forged steel and lightened. Is that correct?"

    Yes.

    The standard chucks were a 6" Cushman forged steel 3-jaw scroll chuck with two sets of jaws and an 8" Skinner forged steel 4-jaw independent chuck with the back lightened during casting and the void painted.

    These are direct mount with no back.

    If the chuck(s) was (were) supplied with a new machine, then the chuck(s) would be stamped with the machine's serial number.

    The same is true of the dog drive plate and the faceplate, both of which are made of cast iron, NOT steel, and are not intended for operation at maximum speed.

    It seems that most eBay 10EE accessories were stripped from an otherwise intact machine, at some point in time, as these usually have an EE+S/N stamped on them, too.

    These numbers are in addition to the four digit "EE number" which is a casting pattern number.

    The Hardinge-Sjogren Speed-Chuck was also especially made for the 10EE, and is a model 2A-D3", not the standard 2-D3". The "A" indicates a smaller handwheel and a higher maximum rated speed of 4,000 rpm. These are also direct mount.

  5. #5
    cobalt blue is offline Aluminum
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    Peter,

    What is the diameter of the Handwheel on the "2A-D3" Sojgren, if you happen to have easy access to that?

    Thanks,

    Stan

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    "What is the diameter of the Handwheel on the "2A-D3" Sojgren, if you happen to have easy access to that?"

    I believe the standard handwheel is 10", the special handwheel for the 10EE is 9".

    The internal components of the two are not interchangable, so the 2A-D3" is a completely new model.

  7. #7
    kvom01 is offline Hot Rolled
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    After reading this thread I checked the chucks that I got with me '42 10EE.

    The 6-jaw is missing the round label, has no serial#'s stamped, and has a backing plate. That said, it does look like the other Cushman's I've seen.

    The 4-jaw has a Cushman tag and has a 5-digit number stamped on the mount side, but no EE designation. The stamped number is not the same as the lathe serial. It has no backing plate and is lightened.

  8. #8
    peterh5322's Avatar
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    "The 4-jaw has a Cushman tag and has a 5-digit number stamped on the mount side, but no EE designation. The stamped number is not the same as the lathe serial. It has no backing plate and is lightened."

    Some chucks have EEnnnnn stamped on them, others don't.

    Rowe Machinery in Santa Cruz has several sets of inside jaws, should yours be missing them. Most are.

    The jaws have a unique sequence number and a jaw number stamped into the web.

    The last time I was there (Rowe's), I sorted through all the Cushman 3-jaw jaws and placed them together in sets.

    Its probably a good idea to have two such Cushmans, one with outside jaws and the other with inside jaws mounted.

  9. #9
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    I have all of the original tooling that came with my 10EE - but I'll never use it as it's 50+ years old and beat to hell. The newer Buck and Bison chucks have better jaws, center better and just plain work better. So if you're looking to get similar tooling as came with the 10EE: go for it! A lightweight 8" 4 jaw, a 6" 3 jaw a faceplate and a dog driving plate and you're in business.

    Just don't become a tooling whore like me. I don't need the competition with Daryl already out there.

  10. #10
    rimcanyon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverarn View Post
    I am trying to get back to my 10 EE project and am looking for a couple of chuckís . I donít have the funds right now for new ones so I have been looking around for suitable used ones. Unless I get lucky and find them at a auction I think e-bay will be my only source. After looking through the past posts it seems that the original 10EE chucks were a 6" Cushman 3-jaw and 8" Skinner 4-jaw are forged steel and lightened. Is that correct?
    So my question is how would I identify the correct chucks on ebay? Is there a part # or some other way to identify the correct chucks? My main concern is getting a chuck that is rated for the speed of the Monarch.
    Thanks
    Ron
    Ron, what year is your 10EE? Standard equipment changed over the years.

    Dave

  11. #11
    oliverarn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Ron, what year is your 10EE? Standard equipment changed over the years.

    Dave
    My lathe is a 1965.
    I got a Monarch faceplate and dog driver off of ebay form some guy in New Mexico. I think he got a load of tooling out of the Los Alamos lab. The faceplate looks like new.

    I dont really care too much about being all original. I would prefer a direct D3 mount like original and one that can handle the10EE speed. If i was buying new. I like the SCA chucks but they are pricey. I dont think SCA makes a direct mount steel 6" chuck any more. I went to the SCA site and they have Bergmans direct mount. I have a feeling that the Bergmans are made in China?
    It will be a while before i get the lathe running so i have time to look around.
    Thanks a bunch for the help everyone.

    Ron

  12. #12
    rke[pler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oliverarn View Post
    I dont really care too much about being all original. I would prefer a direct D3 mount like original and one that can handle the10EE speed.
    About the only thing from the original equipment I'd run at speed (4K rpm) would be the collet holder that uses the drawbar and the dog driver, nothing else is spec'd to that speed. As I recall the Cushman chucks are not steel but if they are they'd be OK at that speed (but I recall problems with the scroll being driven by the lathe braking). The 8" 4-jaws should be kept slower with maybe 2K max, less if you've chucked things off axis.

    I really don't like working on a manual lathe with a part doing 4K, too much energy in the system for me to be comfortable standing new it. Must be getting chicken in my old age.

  13. #13
    daryl bane is online now Stainless
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    Quote Originally Posted by rke[pler View Post

    Just don't become a tooling whore like me. I don't need the competition with Daryl already out there.
    I'm done. I've got it all. BUT I would like one of those multiple threading faceplates though. Actually I had all of the original worn slap out chucks with mine also, but somebody wanted them worse than I did.

  14. #14
    rke[pler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by daryl bane View Post
    I'm done. I've got it all. BUT I would like one of those multiple threading faceplates though. Actually I had all of the original worn slap out chucks with mine also, but somebody wanted them worse than I did.
    You mean one of these?



    Really, it's come in handier as a spare D1-3 nose than as an indexing attachment for a chuck,

  15. #15
    daryl bane is online now Stainless
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    Yessir! thats the baby. I can imagine I would use the crap outa that! I have a D-3 nose mount project to do, but since the move haven't been setup for it.

  16. #16
    Steve in SoCal's Avatar
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    They also work great to do hole patterns in flanges, I just looked on mine and it has NO number on it?

    Steve


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