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How to remove Rivett 1020F cross slide?

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Aug 10, 2007
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How to remove Rivett 1020F cross slide and Apron?

I have removed all the set screws on the cross slide and removed the top of the taper attachment but the gib doesn't want to come out. Anyone know the trick to getting it off? I'll post a pic, but on my phone right now and I might need to add it after the thread is created.

Ok, here's a pic. I removed all 5 of the allen head set screws with thin nyloc nuts, 2 of them were broken, but luckily I was able to use a small tip pliers and start to twist them out.

There are 2 pins, one in the very front and one in the very back, but I don't think those have anything to do with the cross slide coming off.

When I got the compound off I was a bit surprised at how much rust was mixed in with the oil creating a brown sludge...also made me realize I need to take off the apron and clean out all the inside and replace the oil. I replaced the oil when I got the lathe, but seeing the compound I'll need to open the apron and see better inside.

I know there's a couple folks on this forum that have removed them, probably Halcohead and Cal Haines.

Any tips ?

196891d1492906661-how-remove-rivett-1020f-cross-slide-img_4032.jpg
 

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The gib is held on with pins so the cross slide and gib are removed together. The cross slide can come off the front after removing the dial or off the back after removing the taper attachment.
 
I have removed all the set screws on the cross slide and removed the top of the taper attachment but the gib doesn't want to come out. Anyone know the trick to getting it off? I'll post a pic, but on my phone right now and I might need to add it after the thread is created.

Ok, here's a pic. I removed all 5 of the allen head set screws with thin nyloc nuts, 2 of them were broken, but luckily I was able to use a small tip pliers and start to twist them out.

There are 2 pins, one in the very front and one in the very back, but I don't think those have anything to do with the cross slide coming off.

When I got the compound off I was a bit surprised at how much rust was mixed in with the oil creating a brown sludge...also made me realize I need to take off the apron and clean out all the inside and replace the oil. I replaced the oil when I got the lathe, but seeing the compound I'll need to open the apron and see better inside.

I know there's a couple folks on this forum that have removed them, probably Halcohead and Cal Haines.

Any tips ?

196891d1492906661-how-remove-rivett-1020f-cross-slide-img_4032.jpg

Mayhap a dumb question, 'specially as you aren't exactly a naif at these things, but main thing I have to do on a 10EE is A) disconnect the nut, and B) get the gib loose enough to clear the ends of the curvature worn-in.

At which point it slides right off, rearward, as with most lathes I've ever had to do that with, cheap or costly.

Any role the TA has should also be obvious.
 
The gib is held on with pins so the cross slide and gib are removed together. The cross slide can come off the front after removing the dial or off the back after removing the taper attachment.

Greg,

Forgot that you also removed yours. I will take the dial off and remove it from the front. Hopefully that works. I thought if I took the top of the taper attachment off, it would slide off the back, but it starts binding when it gets to the rear, so I suspect the nut needs to be taken off with the screw possibly to remove off the rear.

If I remove those SHCSs that attach the cast piece to the apron, will the dial and screw stay intact ?

EDIT: I see there's a coupling and extention that it appears the dial is connected to, I think I can remove those SHCSs and pull the extension from the coupling. Going out to lathe to see now. :)

While I have your attention, you had mentioned the apron can come off without removing the entire carriage. Do any of the SHCS need to be remove from the top plate of the apron ?

Bill,

Yeah, I did check the TA, but it wouldn't slide back far enough.

Alan
 
Hmmmm....still no go.

Of the 4 SHCSs holding the cast piece to the apron, I only had 1 there... :scratchchin:

Even so, taking that screw out didn't allow the dial/cast/extension to pull out of the lathe.

I also tried to remove the handle on the front, a 9/16" thin nyloc, but that seemed it would let me take the outer ring form the accumulator but not the rest of the dial. I didn't want to separate everything just yet, there are some gears that need to be in place when assembled.
 
On my 1020s the accumulator assembly is attached to the lead screw with a sliding fit. A female square in the dial and a male square on the screw. So the dial should just pull out of the apron. Yours might just be binding up. The accumulator dial will stay intact. You will need to remove theft head socket screws that secure the nut to the cross slide also.
All the cap screws on the top of the carriage hold the apron to it.
 
Now that I think about it, there is a coupling between the dial and the lead screw. But the dial should still pull out the front and the screw out the back. the coupling stays in the cross slide.
 
Greg,

I'm an idiot. There was 3 more SHCSs in the casting, they were in there I just couldn't see them...it came right out after getting those SHCSs out. There was 4 of them... :rolleyes5:

Yes, it looks like a 3/4" extension will allow me to get the slide off now.

Then on to the apron.

What all do I need to remove to get the front of the apron off ?

I'll drain it first, and then do I only need to remove the SHCSs on the front of the apron, or do I need to remove any from the top ?

Thanks for the help, I appreciate it.
 
My number one rule when disassembling something is "just because all the screws are out, it doesn't mean all the screws are out".
If you are going to just remove the front of the apron none of the screws on top need to be removed.
Just the ones on the front. It's been a while and I was so focused on what I was doing I didn't take photos.
I believe the half nut lever should be removed. I don't think the hand wheel and clutches need to be removed but it wouldn't hurt. Mine had been assembled by a previous owner with silicone gasket goop and it was a bear to separate the front of the apron. You've got to be careful here because it's aluminum so a razor blade rather than the screw driver and hammer technique would be best !
 
My number one rule when disassembling something is "just because all the screws are out, it doesn't mean all the screws are out".
If you are going to just remove the front of the apron none of the screws on top need to be removed.
Just the ones on the front. It's been a while and I was so focused on what I was doing I didn't take photos.
I believe the half nut lever should be removed. I don't think the hand wheel and clutches need to be removed but it wouldn't hurt. Mine had been assembled by a previous owner with silicone gasket goop and it was a bear to separate the front of the apron. You've got to be careful here because it's aluminum so a razor blade rather than the screw driver and hammer technique would be best !

Crap, I still can't get the cross slide off. I can unscrew until the front or the rear, but it stops and binds when it runs out of space. I now have the nut somewhere inside, as I removed the screw.

Won't go off front or rear. Does the screw need to come out ? I see 4 SHCSs holding a plate that was under the TA cover, and it looks like the screw ends back there. Hmmm...this is perplexing...
 
Mayhap a dumb question, 'specially as you aren't exactly a naif at these things, but main thing I have to do on a 10EE is A) disconnect the nut, and B) get the gib loose enough to clear the ends of the curvature worn-in

Bill,

I keep thinking about this, and I have all the gib screws out, so that should be loose enough, and I thought I have the nut disengages as I believe the 3 SHCSs do that. I could get the 2 smaller screws back in (31), but the t-block for 33 is not under the larger screw (33).

This is what I'm dealing with: (hope it's legible)

I have 33 and both 31s out. Seems it should slide off. I don't want to force anything, so stepped back to take an assessment before I break something... ;)

crossslide-diagram.png


Greg,

In the original post picture, there are 2 SHCSs on the right side of the middle of the casting, under the cross slide. What are those SHCSs for ? Do you know ?
 
Bill,

I keep thinking about this, and I have all the gib screws out, so that should be loose enough,
..unless, of course, the now free-to-move gib has simply slithered into a wedging position as it encounters unworn ends?

Bu n'er mind for a moment.

I am fair certain the TA should come off. That is a captive thrust bearing-pair right close to where it interfaces with the cross, is it not?

I suspect you will need the TA separated anyway 'real soon now', and I'd be wanting to do that BEFORE pulling the cross feed handle & dial and their extension housing.
 
..unless, of course, the now free-to-move gib has simply slithered into a wedging position as it encounters unworn ends?

I 'spose it's possible, but that seems kinda corny on this type of machine.

I am fair certain the TA should come off. That is a captive thrust bearing-pair right close to where it interfaces with the cross, is it not?

That could be, and if so I will need to move the machine out from the wall. I can't get to the back side easily at the moment, and have a lot of stuff I would need to move in order to do that. That's why I was hoping to get it off the front.

I suspect you will need the TA separated anyway 'real soon now', and I'd be wanting to do that BEFORE pulling the cross feed handle & dial and their extension housing.

The one thing I need it separated for is to adjust the backlash, although right now it's not too bad, about 2-3 thou, I should be able to get it all out of there, in theory.

It seems that the two SHCSs (31) are what holds it. That does move slightly when the screws are out, and maybe there is just sludge built up and locking it in. When I took a few of the screws out I got that nice oil odor, which is most likely the organic stuff everyone used to use.
 
Ok, I got the slide free, it was those two SHCSs (31) that were holding it. It was just stuck on the nut to let it slide free.

However, it hits a stop when trying to take it off the front. :scratchchin:

I'm not sure what 34 is, but maybe that is hitting 43, which could be a stop screw. I don't see how to get that 43 out though. I wonder if I can get it through the t-slot opening for the compound, there's a hole section in the front to get the t-slot bolts in.

EDIT: Bill, you might be right. It looks like the TA might need to come off, so the back of the screw, nut and what is called the check nut, I believe. When 4 small SHCSs are removed from a plate, the check nut and rear section of the screw and nut move off the telescoping rod to allow it to remove out the back, but the TA needs to be disassembled, or at least the portion that rocks as the check nut hits it...must be they don't let the cross slide off the front. I don't see a way to remove the stop.

What caused me to want to remove the cross slide is that if you look in the first post's pic, you'll see 2 small screws that hold the compound on the cross slide, they are 5/16" t-slot bolts. The one on the right is not a t-slot bolt, it's a screw turned upside down and spins inside the t-slot. I want to replace it and/or make a t-slot bolt for it. When I took the compound off I was surprised to see how fugly it was under there with the rust...:rolleyes5:
 
The one thing I need it separated for is to adjust the backlash, although right now it's not too bad, about 2-3 thou, I should be able to get it all out of there, in theory.
Having all three SHCS - (and/or shoulder-bolts?) OUT may be allowing the very players you seek to deal with IN the backlash adjustment system to be what is binding, might it not?

As to access.. my 10EE's are both on skates at the three-point mount pads. Needs care to move them about, but there are no limits to access, any side, any angle.

History says any time I try to take a shortcut - motor vehicles most of all - to avoid the work of making proper access, I get even more scar tissue on my arse and my wallet than on my knuckles.

JM2CW I'd move the heavy b***h.
 
Alan, My lathe does not have those two cap screws on the right side of the casting. Maybe an add on for mounting an indicator or some fixture ? Or maybe something to do with the oiling system.
Those screws #31 attach the nut to the cross slide. Remove them completely.
I believe #34 is the plate that attaches the cross slide to the taper attachment.
You really do need to pull the lathe away from the wall and take the taper attachment off.
I had that same bolt in place of a t-nut holding my compound also.
 
Its been a while ,but I think you are going to have to unthread the crosslide nut off the shaft to get it out.In other words it wont slide out as as an assembly.You could undue the thrust bearing on the TA end and take it out the front,or if you want the rear if there is enough room.The crosslide nut sits down in a cavity in the casting and I believe that is what its hitting.If it wasn't for the pins in the gib it might be possible too hold it up and get past it ,but that wasn't their design.
Ok, I got the slide free, it was those two SHCSs (31) that were holding it. It was just stuck on the nut to let it slide free.

However, it hits a stop when trying to take it off the front. :scratchchin:

I'm not sure what 34 is, but maybe that is hitting 43, which could be a stop screw. I don't see how to get that 43 out though. I wonder if I can get it through the t-slot opening for the compound, there's a hole section in the front to get the t-slot bolts in.

EDIT: Bill, you might be right. It looks like the TA might need to come off, so the back of the screw, nut and what is called the check nut, I believe. When 4 small SHCSs are removed from a plate, the check nut and rear section of the screw and nut move off the telescoping rod to allow it to remove out the back, but the TA needs to be disassembled, or at least the portion that rocks as the check nut hits it...must be they don't let the cross slide off the front. I don't see a way to remove the stop.

What caused me to want to remove the cross slide is that if you look in the first post's pic, you'll see 2 small screws that hold the compound on the cross slide, they are 5/16" t-slot bolts. The one on the right is not a t-slot bolt, it's a screw turned upside down and spins inside the t-slot. I want to replace it and/or make a t-slot bolt for it. When I took the compound off I was surprised to see how fugly it was under there with the rust...:rolleyes5:
 
I had that same bolt in place of a t-nut holding my compound also.

WTF, is some oil monster eating these things ? The t-slot bolts are fairly small, 5/16 I believe. Seems pretty small to hold the compound on, but the main hold is on the 7/8" pivot in the center. I'm designing a radius turner that will replace the compound. It will be 5" in diameter, and fit over the 7/8" pivot.

As to access.. my 10EE's are both on skates at the three-point mount pads. Needs care to move them about, but there are no limits to access, any side, any angle.

Yeah, I have skates I made for mine, but I need to move some stuff before I can move it out, so there is some work to get the lathe on the skates and moved...moving all the stuff and getting it on the skates to move out is some work that I was trying to avoid.

I need to see if it is possible to get the top portion of the TA off so I can get that check nut and rear portion of the screw off.

History says any time I try to take a shortcut - motor vehicles most of all - to avoid the work of making proper access, I get even more scar tissue on my arse and my wallet than on my knuckles.

JM2CW I'd move the heavy b***h.

Indeed, I should know that by now...LOL

Its been a while ,but I think you are going to have to unthread the crosslide nut off the shaft to get it out.

Yes, I don't see another way to do this. If the TA was not on the back, the back portion of the screw and the check nut should slide off the rear to allow the cross slide to be removed and not hit the nut.
 
If you slide out the main TA sliding part and the square gibbed block that fits over top of it that plate that attaches the cross slide to the TA will slide out the back taking the screw, nut and thrust bearing support block with it.
 
If you slide out the main TA sliding part and the square gibbed block that fits over top of it that plate that attaches the cross slide to the TA will slide out the back taking the screw, nut and thrust bearing support block with it.


Greg,

Going to look at this in a minute, but when you say the "main TA sliding part", are you talking about the piece that rocks and measures the angle ? IOW, the piece that pivots in the center ?

I will look at this a bit better now, was late last night and I was getting tired...

Alan
 








 
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