Thread: Just finished my new Pulley belt drive and DC Motor Control install!

Hey Guys,

I just finished installing my Beel DC Motor controller, I now have forward and reverse, as well as I gained a good 300 RPM just from the controller itself. My Machine was using the old flat belt pulleys and it was kinda noisy due to the fact that the belt has a spot in it where it was joined and every time it goes around it makes noise... So Anyway I decided to do a 8 rib pulley drive system, and now I have my machine running to a max RPM of 2350! That is over 1000 RPM Higher than what I had with the old controller and pulleys. This drive is much quieter, only thing I need to to is make a new tensioner because the factory one has two service holes in it on the running surface and it makes a bit of noise, but other than that its great!

Hi!
I may end up doing something like that to mine eventually. Is there any place on this forum where the process is described?
I like to se/hear more about how you did this. What you kept of the old stuff and what you had to replace and with what. Please?

Jerry

Hey Jerry,

what year is your machine?? Anyway, first off my motor is a 3hp Baldor, not original by any means. But it works. As for the spindle what I did was use some pulleys we use for crank pulleys on Supercharged cars. then I machined some pulley hubs one for the spindle and one for the motor. put a 1/4" Keyway in both and a set screw and machined them for a press fit, bout half thou interference fit. The 8 Rib pulleys then bolt to the hubs, and one is 6" and one is 7.5". They have a center locating bore on them to keep perfectly true, so a incorporated that into the design of the hubs. So if I swap the pulleys end for end it changes my drive ratio!

Hey Jerry,

what year is your machine?? Anyway, first off my motor is a 3hp Baldor, not original by any means. But it works. As for the spindle what I did was use some pulleys we use for crank pulleys on Supercharged cars. then I machined some pulley hubs one for the spindle and one for the motor. put a 1/4" Keyway in both and a set screw and machined them for a press fit, bout half thou interference fit. The 8 Rib pulleys then bolt to the hubs, and one is 6" and one is 7.5". They have a center locating bore on them to keep perfectly true, so a incorporated that into the design of the hubs. So if I swap the pulleys end for end it changes my drive ratio!

Hi!
Mine is a -49 MG. I have not put power to it yet as I have only 16A 3hp in the wall. It´s wired for 380 volt at the moment, but if I get a soft starter and rewire for 220v I hope to be able to run it on the existing fuse. I have no idea if it will turn when I hit the switch. The previous owner knew nothing about the machine.
If everything works or can be fixed within a reasonable budget then that would be preferential(original 1949 would be good), otherwise I may take your route. Right now I´m trying to figure out what the thing needs (apart from a lot of work witch is the fun part for me) to get back to running order. I need to decide whether to discharge the MG/DC unit entirely, partially or not at all. Soft starter first, then we´ll see...

Jerry

Originally Posted by KnoLimitz

Hey Guys,

I just finished installing my Beel DC Motor controller, I now have forward and reverse, as well as I gained a good 300 RPM just from the controller itself. My Machine was using the old flat belt pulleys and it was kinda noisy due to the fact that the belt has a spot in it where it was joined and every time it goes around it makes noise... So Anyway I decided to do a 8 rib pulley drive system, and now I have my machine running to a max RPM of 2350! That is over 1000 RPM Higher than what I had with the old controller and pulleys. This drive is much quieter, only thing I need to to is make a new tensioner because the factory one has two service holes in it on the running surface and it makes a bit of noise, but other than that its great!

Good news! Do you have measurements, or calculations for:

- Your actual input voltage off the wall.

- Max RPM at the motor shaft

- Max Armature voltage at top speed

- Max field voltage when not in field-weakening mode.

- Time need to stop (chuck or faceplate, little or no significant mass in a workpiece)

- Time needed to reverse

And is everything cool and quiet?

Adding; Not asking about current-drawn, as I expect your 3 HP Baldor isn't very close to the original motor in its personality.

The voltages, however, will give a hint as to what might be available to the original motor

Thanks,

Bill

I've also been very curious about the Beel drive. Could you please post your comments on it in a new thread? I would like to see photos of the install. I'm interested to know what electrical components you used from the original drive and what you had to buy, in addition to the Beel board. What drive did the machine have originally?

Nice job on the pulleys. Are these an off the shelf item? How much?

I'm guessing that your change in speed has more to do with the pulley ratio than the drive itself.

Cal

Don't mean to be a pest, bit just how well is that Beel drive working out for you?

...or does JB make his customer's sign an NDA?

;-)

Bill (finally bending the metal to mount his pair of Parker/SSD's)

10 August the Beel drive is in. 26 September and no further word.

These must ship with a built-in 'ultra small black hole', as they seem to drop below the event-horizon shortly after being switched-on.

Oh, well...

Bill