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Lodge and Shipley 2013-17 lead screw question

Joined
Feb 11, 2018
Hello all, my apologies if this is the wrong thread. I'm new and it seemed fitting as monarch bought them out, but anyway.. I recently managed to purchase a 2013-17 lathe serial #44721 with a 24 5/8" x 78" bed for a very good price. Everything on it works perfect except the right hand setting for the lead screw. If anyone might have a idea of a possible cause or common problem with them without me having to open up the gearbox I'd be grateful. Power feed, both ways and left hand lead screw setting work fine.
 
First thing I would ask is does it have lead screw reverse on apron and do you understand how that works? This would be a lever right end of apron with three positions - screw turns one way, neutral and screw turns other way

Hello all, my apologies if this is the wrong thread. I'm new and it seemed fitting as monarch bought them out, but anyway.. I recently managed to purchase a 2013-17 lathe serial #44721 with a 24 5/8" x 78" bed for a very good price. Everything on it works perfect except the right hand setting for the lead screw. If anyone might have a idea of a possible cause or common problem with them without me having to open up the gearbox I'd be grateful. Power feed, both ways and left hand lead screw setting work fine.
 
Well to be completely honest this is my first lathe I bought to teach myself on so some stuff goes over my head, but no it does not. It has an apron reverse for the power feed but no lead screw reverse. There's just a 3 position lever on the gear box.
 
Well to be completely honest this is my first lathe I bought to teach myself on so some stuff goes over my head, but no it does not. It has an apron reverse for the power feed but no lead screw reverse. There's just a 3 position lever on the gear box.

As suggested post pictures of both the apron and the headstock. In my experience the threading reverse is usually done in the headstock (this because the apron is driven by the leadscrew) so I'd be looking there. Online manuals suggest that on later models it was a small lever on the right side top of the headstock.

When you play with this stuff without a manual you run the risk of locking up the gearbox before applying power, so it's a good idea to turn the spindle over by hand with the clutch engaged and the power off to make sure that things are going to be graunched on start. If you can see the appropriate motion on the leadscrew or the drive then it's safe to disengage the clutch, start the motor and *carefully* bring it on. There nothing like the heart race that you get when you accidentally engage an apron with the gearbox on some high feed and the apron races to the headstock when you spin things up. Kind of a machinist's cardiac stress test.
 
I'll try to get some pictures on here this evening for you guys. I have a manual, but it doesn't go into troubleshooting. I got this big of a lathe because I'm sure just as soon as I bought a small one I'd need to do something just ever so bigger than it would handle. So i got the biggest one that would fit in the shop. I kind of assumed it would be more rigid to, which I figured would make learning simpler?
 
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It sure looks pretty standard - the bottom lever with 3 positions is likely feed left-thread-feed right (right and left might be the other way around). The other lever likely engages the halfnuts on the leadscrew and might be blocked if the feed lever isn't on the thread position. The other vertical levers are for engaging the cross feed and bed feed. If you want/need discussion of how all these work just ask.

So as I expected it's very likely a control on the headstock. I saw a bad link - any chance you can repost the link or put the image directly in the post?
 
I mean I've figured out the apron other than the knob under the levers to kick on the feeds and everything thing there works. Hopefully the pictures work right this time, but I was more curious if anyone had any idea what possible culprits would be in gear box. Before I attempted to tear it down.

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Here's one you can see a little better.

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And yes top ones half nut engagement, works fine, and bottom is left, neutral, and right feeds.
 
So after some inspection, and careful guess work, I tore down enough of the gearboxes and head to narrow the problem to, either the reversing clutch in the head or hopefully a sheared pin on a gear either side of that clutch. Which based on location it will be super interesting taking all that apart.
 
The lathe appears in a neglected state, but it is one of finest lathes ever built. Please take pictures of the back side of the machine and the tailstock. It is definitely worth making it right again. As others have said, this is NOT a beginner's lathe. I have one of these as well. Please swing the door open on the left side and photograph that area as well. Please note she's very heavy and requires 8" of reinforced concrete as a base per the factory's installation instruction guide. You will have to take great care in leveling this machine once it is in its final place and you will have to do it more than once as the machine will settle some. If you have not done these things before, do yourself a favor and get some help and expertise with this. If you don't do this right, you could hurt the machine.
 
Its had a rough life I'm sure. I got it from a machine trader in Kansas city who got it from a production shop there. Floors only 6 inch but I made 5" sqaure 1" thick ar500 pads for the feet so that should hopefully help. Ill take pictures of requested areas as soon as I can for you guys. Worst thing on the lathe is worn ways... they're replaceable but I priced them through monarch and I could s*** gold eggs for weeks to come close to paying for those. Cross slide is worn as well, but I plan on making a new one in the near future.
 
everything in it seems smooth tho. I changed all the fluid to Schaeffer oil and it runs good and quiet. Other than the ways paint is what I need to be after I think
 








 
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