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Measurements please

vdrum4250

Aluminum
Joined
Apr 16, 2017
Can some one measure the orange part. Need to fabricate for my machine...
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Thank you. At first I thought right was exact as left. But turned upside down. I was wrong.. Thanks in advance

Are you certain? Seems seriously odd that it is the only part on that drawing to NOT have an EE part number callout of its own.

Unless, of course EE-3880 is listed in the repair parts for that page as a two-piece set. "Mandarin Duck" style, not identical?
 
Are you certain? Seems seriously odd that it is the only part on that drawing to NOT have an EE part number callout of its own.

Unless, of course EE-3880 is listed in the repair parts for that page as a two-piece 'set'?
Not sure but diagram shows to be different shape for right side one.

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Not sure but diagram shows to be different shape for right side one.

Larry can probably confirm or deny far better than I can.

One of my 10EE has LSR, but no electrical switches associated.

Been too lazy so far to dig out the threads on PM to confirm whether it was the earlier MECHANICAL attempted-LSR or wot. AFAIK, those ones could actually reverse the LS, or at least kick-out the 'active' dog-clutch, not just stop the spindle for the operator to do that.

OTOH, it was a tad stressful to the dog-clutches, so will have to come off.

A 4Q Parker-SSD drive can brake or reverse faster than ELSR anyway - if one even needs it to do. Nice for taps & dies, otherwise, I tend to simply single-point thread AWAY from shoulders and blind-hole bottoms, not toward them.
 
Larry can probably confirm or deny far better than I can.

One of my 10EE has LSR, but no electrical switches associated.

Been too lazy so far to dig out the threads on PM to confirm whether it was the earlier MECHANICAL attempted-LSR or wot. Those ones could actually reverse the LS, not just stop for the operator to do that. OTOH, it was a tad stressful to the dog-clutches.
Yeah I read there is another option to control return rate..

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Yeah I read there is another option to control return rate..

The other thing - and one of the several reason we need those 'Serial Number specific' manuals with "as-built" from Monarch - is that they delivered not only one-off / few-off true 'specials' to suit a customer, but also years out-of-date 'retro' versions so a customer could keep doing what they were happy with and not retrain staff or change methods or tooling.

That all-mechanical rig is on an early 1944 "white metal round-dial" MG, whereas the introduction of the Electrical LSR - AFAIK - actually predated 1944.
 
Looks like part is the same. Doesn't the L rotate 180 degrees to match R ? Or the other way by rotating R to match L. Maybe I'm wrong, as that seems too simple... :rolleyes5:
That's what I thought. But look at shapes slightly different

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That's what I thought. But look at shapes slightly different

Small part. Thin section. Low enough stress to try it, manually 'few cycles'.

If no confirmation/denial forthcoming, I'd have one whipped up out of Lexan or Micarta sheet stock I keep around fast enough to try it and see whether a mirror-image functioned as expected, adjust from the trial fit if need be, go to steel only once satisfied.

Monarch didn't build the first one out of someone else's 'book', so they, too, may have had to adjust the drawing once testing showed a need.
 
Small part. Thin section. Low enough stress to try it, manually 'few cycles'.

If no confirmation/denial forthcoming, I'd have one whipped up out of Lexan or Micarta sheet stock I keep around fast enough to try it and see whether a mirror-image functioned as expected, adjust from the trial fit if need be, go to steel only once satisfied.

Monarch didn't build the first one out of someone else's 'book', so they, too, may have had to adjust the drawing once testing showed a need.
I tried mirror version. Didn't work when it goes from forward to neutral. Works from reverse to neutral.
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I tried mirror version. Didn't work when it goes from forward to neutral. Works from reverse to neutral.
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Also sometimes reinventing a wheel is not needed..

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Also sometimes reinventing a wheel is not needed..

One does have to wonder why they 'did that' as to them not being identical.

FWIW-not-much department, as it isn't easily 'portable', either direction...

Monarch's ELSR gets compliments as useful enough. But Hendey's T&G and Cazeneuve's HBX series both had even better systems to get the same task done when threading.

Patents, perceived durability, incompatibility with something else, or even just unit cost to implement may have been a greater barrier than "NIH" syndrome.
 
One does have to wonder why they 'did that' as to them not being identical.

FWIW-not-much department, as it isn't easily 'portable', either direction...

Monarch's ELSR gets compliments as useful enough. But Hendey's T&G and Cazeneuve's HBX series both had even better systems to get the same task done when threading.

Patents, perceived durability, incompatibility with something else, or even just unit cost to implement may have been a greater barrier than "NIH" syndrome.
Ok i winged it.. Works. Now. Top has to be more steep ramp and lower has to be able to clear the nipple when it's forced down... Works.
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Ok i winged it.. Works. Now. Top has to be more steep ramp and lower has to be able to clear the nipple when it's forced down... Works.

Good on Yah! Now you ARE - fergawds-ache - gonna clean it up?

It's a Monarch lathe, not an Appalachian stub-sis-dance farmer's band-aid-patched hayrake.

And nooooo DAMHIK the difference!

Got a training tape around here somewhere's with an "Instrument" instructor sayin' that if you can tell the difference between a motorsickle and a John Deere tractor, you can learn this, too!

Seems he was correct, but I've never felt quite as comfortable as an airline passenger, since.

:(
 
Good on Yah! Now you ARE - fergawds-ache - gonna clean it up?

It's a Monarch lathe, not an Appalachian susbsistance-farmer's band-aid-patched hayrake.

And nooooo DAMHIK the differecne!

:) :)
Ok threading works also. Nice. Only thing left is to make some damm t nuts for the AXA and bxa tool post. Changed out the cross-feed nut. Whoa. Went from around 200 thou backlash to about 3 thou. After installed new brass cross feed nut. Changed the cross and compound on my 12x36 atlas lathe also. Whoa... Just like new...




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Ok threading works also. Nice. Only thing left is to make some damm t nuts for the AXA and bxa tool post. Changed out the cross-feed nut. Whoa. Went from around 200 thou backlash to about 3 thou. After installed new brass cross feed nut. Changed the cross and compound on my 12x36 atlas lathe also. Whoa... Just like new...




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One thing I did , and I hope it is not controversial, is drill a small hole thru the threaded hole in the crosslide nut so you can squirt some oil in there to lubricate the screw. You can do one better and also drill a hole thru the capscrew and tap for a setscrew in the recess to seal it, and you don't have to remove the capscrew every time you oil it.
 








 
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