Monarch 10ee cover

Does anybody have a head top cover for a 10ee or know where I can find one?

Thank you.

Fuchster said:

Does anybody have a head top cover for a 10ee or know where I can find one?

Thank you.

Click to expand...

Dentures for Ducks have a better chance of being located, Round Dial 10EE.

The lower HS-end cover breaks. Easily.

The upper not as often but still..

Both (need a pair meself) are seriously scarcer than 10EE as need them.

Making a pattern to cast or mold them in Aluminium or a plastic has been kicked around. PO of my one was a sculptor, knew how.

Monarchist said:

Dentures for Ducks have a better chance of being located, Round Dial 10EE.

The lower HS-end cover breaks. Easily.

The upper not as often but still..

Both (need a pair meself) are seriously scarcer than 10EE as need them.

Making a pattern to cast or mold them in Aluminium or a plastic has been kicked around. PO of my one was a sculptor, knew how.

Click to expand...

It came with a square dial covers. I guess I could make them work with some cutting and welding. Plus a patch. It will be missing the brass rear gear indicator and speed tag.

Fuchster said:

It came with a square dial covers. I guess I could make them work with some cutting and welding. Plus a patch. It will be missing the brass rear gear indicator and speed tag.

Click to expand...

The lower on the one I do have - for the other 10EE - is not the original, overlaps a tad at the edges. I presume that means it is off a later base casting as well.

I have schemed cutting the lower in half, adjusting the width at the cut edge, reinforcing the edges, hinging as a paired set rather than lift-off... before it breaks anyway.

Lower panel is not hard to fab a decent-looking substitute for, upper is the hard one.

I'll have to go dig an exploratory trench and have a look as to the brass tag. May be able to free one up, as my speed controls (Parker-SSD) no longer live there.

This should be an easy project to do in fiberglass.

Might even convince one of the providers of aftermarket auto body parts to make and offer them.

Glug said:

This should be an easy project to do in fiberglass.

Might even convince one of the providers of aftermarket auto body parts to make and offer them.

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Doubtful. The problem is low total demand and very sporadic orders for it.

Thank you for the replies.
Does anybody have an idea on the value if I were to come across a set?

Fuchster said:

Thank you for the replies.
Does anybody have an idea on the value if I were to come across a set?

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Not a lot of visible/searchable history on that. EX: I have a good deal of the residue from "one and a half" parted-out 10EE.

HS-end covers NOT included.

The PO may have bought an entire 10EE just to get its covers.

Then parted-out or smelted all-else.

I did say "scarce"?

Option would be to split the lower cover that I have from a square dial and world backup. The top would have to be section off, fitted and then weld it.
It has the very cool Navy tag.

By the way the serial number is 20000.

Fuchster said:

The top would have to be section off, fitted and then weld it.

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Not sure. Cast iron not being mandatory, an artist with an English Wheel might not need to do the welding.

I know how to pull a mold off my one good one. Even make a wooden forming buck for s**t metal, rawhide hammer work thereafter. ELSE build a mold to cast resins.

"Knowing how" does not equate even to "might do, someday, maybe" because any of that is waaay too much like work!

My inclination would instead to just DIY a cover that did NOT preserve the original shape, but DID keep the fingers, rocks, and dog hair out of the works. Visualize, if you will, a heavy-wall aluminium stew pot, cut away with the curved wall and bottom only partially retained.

Belt guard on my 1940-something Walker-Turner DP isn't even ten-percent that nice. OTOH, it works well and has lasted since the 1970's. Ugly enuf to sicken a hog, visually, but we ain't kept hogs since '48, so they can get their own damned coffee.