Monarch series 612 - 2516-19 shifting woes and loose parts Help!

I was doing maintenance on my Monarch 612, after 10yrs of non-optimal storage. All exposed surfaces were greased and it was covered in a shed but not exactly temperature controlled storage.

The head stock looked good,clean and oil wetted. The end gearing a couple rust spots, the gearbox and reverser not as good. I have included some pics.

Upon partial disassembly:

1) I found a nylon gear and 0.500" x 1.000" pin in the sump of the gearbox. I can't determine their location, any thoughts? Are they even part of this Monarch lathe or did some joker leave it in there?


2) There is some moisture in the gearbox and rust on the feed revers-er, I will have to de-rust/wire brush it and flush the hydraulic system with something before I start her up.


3) The Run-Shift lever doesn't want to move easily, although the head stock seams clean, do I need the oil system and main motor running to use this lever...maybe there is nothing wrong...just the noob
operating it.

Glenn

Not much help from Forum so far, maybe too 10ee loaded. The gear it turns out is in the bottom of thread direction assembly, used to pickup oil and distribute it to gear train - not working... hence the rust in this section after sitting, things were not oily enough.

So.... can I take the forward section of gearbox apart without removing entire gearbox from lathe? Its kinda a big and kinda heavy if I can avoid it.

Glenn

weedy64 said:

I was doing maintenance on my Monarch 612, after 10yrs of non-optimal storage. All exposed surfaces were greased and it was covered in a shed but not exactly temperature controlled storage.

The head stock looked good,clean and oil wetted. The end gearing a couple rust spots, the gearbox and reverser not as good. I have included some pics.

Upon partial disassembly:
View attachment 194191
1) I found a nylon gear and 0.500" x 1.000" pin in the sump of the gearbox. I can't determine their location, any thoughts? Are they even part of this Monarch lathe or did some joker leave it in there?

View attachment 194189View attachment 194190
2) There is some moisture in the gearbox and rust on the feed revers-er, I will have to de-rust/wire brush it and flush the hydraulic system with something before I start her up.

View attachment 194188
3) The Run-Shift lever doesn't want to move easily, although the head stock seams clean, do I need the oil system and main motor running to use this lever...maybe there is nothing wrong...just the noob
operating it.

Glenn

Click to expand...

If I remember right you do need the hydraulics running to proper shifting. There are hydraulic interlocks with the shifters. I am going by very old fussy memory and hope someone with more up to date experience will chime in. Worst case, call Monarch Lathe for advice, they usually pretty good to work with.

612 update

JL: Yes, Monarch service mentioned that too.

I am currently going thru the hydraulic\lube pump and tank, the filter was very plugged (solvent would barely run thru it) waiting for a new ones. The pump motor and pump coupling faces are really worn due age and/or a pump collar loosening up in operation. They rotate ~80deg wrt each other. A replacement motor/pump assy is $2700, kind of a lot IMHO for a 1gpm @ 200psi pump/motor, so I am re-making the ends of the motor and pump shafts to correct the wear before starting the lathe up again.



The shafts rotate almost 80 deg WRT each other, not good


significant endwear on the coupling areas, 4140 but not hardened, and 51years old



The pump collar? was un-screwing from the body already when I separated the motor from the pump.


Lube gear location found: forget camera

Monarch service pointed it out. I replaced the lube p/u gear in the gearbox, had to remove gearbox (with hoist) and turn it upside down and remove the sump plate, and then it was right there....easy. I pinned the bracket that holds the gear to keep it all captive.

Again going by memory, if the pump and motor are original to your lathe, then they are no long being made. Monarch offers a complete upgrade kit which explains the cost.

Is this a motor in the leg or motor and tank behind the headstock? The pump on the motor in the leg is easier to upgrade, but the other is more complicated and cost more.

The tank and motor/pump are inside the leg, under the head stock. Re-making the ends of the shafts and refitting will not be a problem for me.

All good, new oil, new filter, rebuilt hydraulic pump/motor. Headstock shifts nicely between speeds now that the pump is running.

Ok, mostly good: one bijur fitting in end gearing area is a bit stripped and leaks (alum. nut is half stripped). Its minimal pressure, just a drip feed on an open gear.

The lathe oil lines are SS(large) and copper(small, ~1/8"). Are parts still avail for these old copper line fittings?

weedy64 said:

...
The lathe oil lines are SS(large) and copper(small, ~1/8"). Are parts still avail for these old copper line fittings?

Click to expand...

Depending on the vintage of the lathe, the lines may be copper-plated steel. Check them with a magnet. Also check the ID, they often used odd sizes. I think the lines on my 10EE were 5/32", so things like compression ferrules are not commonly available. Monarch should carry everything and the last I heard they were reasonably priced. You can also search for a Bijur dealer and buy direct from them. Ten plus years ago I bought some non-Bijur metering devices from either MSC or McMaster and they worked fine on my 10EE.

Cal

When I was searching for Bijur components for my old Monarch lathe, I found a company called Fluidline Systems out of Toledo, Oh.. I don't want to say they have everything "Bijur" but they carry alot of lines and fittings in the 3/32", 1/4", and 5/32" size.

Just another option....I bookmarked their site, so I could readily find them again.

hawkfan9 said:

When I was searching for Bijur components for my old Monarch lathe, I found a company called Fluidline Systems out of Toledo, Oh.. I don't want to say they have everything "Bijur" but they carry alot of lines and fittings in the 3/32", 1/4", and 5/32" size.

Just another option....I bookmarked their site, so I could readily find them again.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. They're not local, but they are in state.