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EE carriage crashed... frozen in place. HELP

aaron keit

Plastic
Joined
Jun 9, 2005
Location
Woodland Hills, CA
Hi,

I was doing some threading today on my 10-EE, and accidentally switched one of the threading levers in to the wrong position, causing the carriage to thread towards the spindle when I engaged the threading. Because it was only like 0.5" away from the end of its travel in that direction, the carriage crashed into the headstock area. I quickly cut the power but I now can't disengage the threading lever, and cannot move the carriage.

Any advice?

Thanks
 
Spin the spindle backwards by hand.

If that doesnt get it which it should,you will need to remove the rear cover and loosen the banjo to relieve the pressure on the gear train.Hope it didnt twist or sheer anything off.
 
Hi again,

Here's an update. I forced the threading lever to disengage and got the carriage free. Now the problem is: The threading rod doesn't turn anymore. If I try turn on the spindle with the threading rod in gear I get a "clanging" sound that is in time with the spindle turning and it doesn't turn. I haven't tried other TPI because in the process of doing all this I broke off the lever that lets you change the TPI knob. Can I get inside this thing without removing the headstock? What a day...

Thanks,

Aaron
 
Some of them had a shear pin (usually brass) somewhere on the shaft. This was designed to break if things got overloaded. Sounds like this might be the case here.
Good news: cheap fix (short piece of brass rod)
Bad news: Probably take you a day or two to get to it.
Good luck on your project. Let us know how it comes out!
 
As mentioned, it might only be a shear pin gone but it could be a key broken or worse.

I'd start at the ends and check inwards - what happened when you manually turn the leadscrew? Does it spin the gearbox output shaft? If not then the taper pin coupling the 2 might have sheared. On the input end of the gearbox you can see some by taking the end cover off and looking at the end gears, it could be that you stressed something there that's visible.

If you can't find anything outside the gearbox you'll have to get into it. You can see much of the gearbox innards if you take off the quarter round on top of the gear box, the bad news is that you have to take off the tumbler lever assembly, and it sounds as though you broke that. You'll have to pull it to fix it anyway, so take off the setscrew in the back of the lever and pop out the taper pin retaining the lever. Underneath you'll see the bracket is held with a couple of SHCH to the quarter round casting, remove those and it and the tumbler lever shaft should come out with a little jostling (2 support/bearing surfaces there so be careful).

With the tumbler lever shaft out remove the A/B knob (setscrew in top, assembly slides out front) and the 3-4 SHCS on top of the quarter round and the casting should slide straight out. At that point you can rotate the spindle and see how far power goes by watching the gearing. If something's broken in there you'll have to pull the gear box, luckily it's easily done and comes right off the headstock end (pull the reverse gear and end gear housing first!).

Let us know how things go.
 
Hi,

Rkep[ler... I followed your instructions on removing the quarter round cover, and they were very helpful. I can see now that the problem is with the adjustable arm that moves the gear back and forth as you change from different feeds and speeds. I actually engages intermitently, and the carriage will feed properly, but most of the time it does not seem to swing to a consistent position to engage the gears.

It swings very freely on its axis, and I can see a way to adjust it. I can't quite picture wat exactly is supposed to force it into the correct position. Any more insight? Will I have to pull the whole gearbox?

Thanks much,

Aaron
 
Hi...

OK, another update. When I put both the two plates on the move the adjustable gear arm (the plates that are normally moved back and forth by the tumbler lever), it seems it engage consistently, and the feed/threading works... EXCEPT for the gear I was in when it crashed. I found that gear split open, lying in the oil bath at the bottom of the gearbox. It was apparenty torn off the shaft. So apparently I will be able to feed/thread in all gear positions except for the first one (I was threading at 24 tpi). I think I'll just live with that for the time being. If I do want to replace it in the future, does monarch sell replacements? It seems like a big job to pull that whole gearbox apart... has anyone done it? Are there any references anywhere with instructions?

Thanks much,

Aaron
 
When I put both the two plates on the move the adjustable gear arm (the plates that are normally moved back and forth by the tumbler lever), it seems it engage consistently, and the feed/threading works... EXCEPT for the gear I was in when it crashed. I found that gear split open, lying in the oil bath at the bottom of the gearbox. It was apparenty torn off the shaft.
If I understand you right you've broken the smallest gear on the cone shaft, a 24 tooth 16 DP gear (part EE-1011). If that's right you could check with Monarch and see if they have a used one hanging around, or haunt eBay for a gearbox (watch for someone parting out). I've never taken the gearbox apart, maybe Daryl could comment. I think the cone shaft is quite a ways into the gearbox...
 
Yeah it is, and thats a tough one. You'll have to pull the box, thats for sure. Unfortunately, I will have to refresh my memory, but as I remember, its not one of those things that you can just go in and fix just that. I think you have to pull alot of stuff in the gearbox to get in there. I would think about a complete gearbox overhaul when you get your mind set for it.
MonarchEE022.jpg

MonarchEE016.jpg
 
Am I hearing this right? A crash split one the gears in the gearbox in half? Isn't there a shear pin in the leadscrew where it comes out of the box? I'm not at my EE now but I remember something like that.
 








 
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