Roberto
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2007
- Location
- Bay Area, California
Hi Everyone,
Where can one get replacement D1-3 pins/shafts ?
Thanks,
Roberto
Where can one get replacement D1-3 pins/shafts ?
Thanks,
Roberto
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Largest Manufacturing Technology Community on the Web
Stay Connected:
D1-3 Pins/shafts
- Thread starter Roberto
- Start date
- Replies 24
- Views 3,566
rke[pler
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2002
- Location
- Peralta, NM USA
J&L Industrial, MSC, etc. Looking at J&L I see it's their part number MCT-55705B @ $16.33 ea
I usually wait for cheap D1-3 tooling on eBay and snag it there, I've ended up paying $4 for a Bison D1-3 backplate (and $25 shipping, still a fair deal).
I usually wait for cheap D1-3 tooling on eBay and snag it there, I've ended up paying $4 for a Bison D1-3 backplate (and $25 shipping, still a fair deal).
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
I make them from 5/8" dia shock absorber shafts, make backplates from large water pump shafts. all salvaged material.
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2003_retired_files/Donshop4.jpg
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2003_retired_files/Donshop4.jpg
Roberto
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2007
- Location
- Bay Area, California
Hi Everyone,
Thanks a million !
Donie, Damn great idea, have a small pile of bike shocks. Never thought of saving the shafts.
Cheers,
Roberto
Thanks a million !
Donie, Damn great idea, have a small pile of bike shocks. Never thought of saving the shafts.
Cheers,
Roberto
DaveKamp
Titanium
- Joined
- Oct 3, 2004
- Location
- LeClaire, Ia
I'll second Donie's note. I've got this 'pile' back behind the barn... of all sorts of scrap stuff. About twice a year, I pull the trailer over and fill it... and as I'm doing it, I examine each part, looking for mechanisms and stock shapes that're useful... and if so, I cut 'em out... I'm trying to figure out what branch of my Mutt-Lineage drives me to do it...
Donie- how easy are those shafts to work? Seems to me it's pretty hard stuff...
Another odd thing I ran into not long ago- I was in a pinch for some 5/8" shaft stock for a project... and was seeing light at the end of the tunnel... my stock shelf didn't have anything right. Then I noticed a three-foot chunk of 5/8" copper-coated steel ground rod, and realized that was pretty tough stuff... So my next dillemma was... should I coat it, or let it turn green?
Donie- how easy are those shafts to work? Seems to me it's pretty hard stuff...
Another odd thing I ran into not long ago- I was in a pinch for some 5/8" shaft stock for a project... and was seeing light at the end of the tunnel... my stock shelf didn't have anything right. Then I noticed a three-foot chunk of 5/8" copper-coated steel ground rod, and realized that was pretty tough stuff... So my next dillemma was... should I coat it, or let it turn green?
Chet Spencer
Aluminum
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2006
- Location
- Fairfield, Ca
Quick question, should the pins have any movement
at all in a D1-3 collet closer. Sitting on the bench it seems one pin in the backplate has a very small amount of play?
at all in a D1-3 collet closer. Sitting on the bench it seems one pin in the backplate has a very small amount of play?
rke[pler
Diamond
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2002
- Location
- Peralta, NM USA
It isn't a problem unless the pin doesn't pull in on the cam. If it doesn't the cam will rotate all the way around, so it's sort of easy to notice. I think most of the pins on my chucks rattle around a bit.
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
Those shock shafts are tough to machine, but the EE is made for such jobs.
I took a day and made over 30 of them, used all but two for spares.
The material works fine, so far no stretching or breaking problems.
I seem to have the same vision as DaveKamp, when at the scrap yard. I see tools in the scrap pieces scattered on the ground.
I took a day and made over 30 of them, used all but two for spares.
The material works fine, so far no stretching or breaking problems.
I seem to have the same vision as DaveKamp, when at the scrap yard. I see tools in the scrap pieces scattered on the ground.
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
I used salvaged shafts from bent shock absorbers that I believe were off food processing equipment.
I was able to get about a 12" piece from each one.
the shafts were 5/8". I used my Hardinge Chucker to cut the two diameters, I did this on both ends of the 12" pieces, I also drilled a small center hole.
I single point threaded the pieces on my EE for a little better fit.
Then I used a 5C workhead on a mill to cut the radiused relief and counter relief, using a footstock to steady the part.
Then back to the Hardinge Chucker to part them off.
All the turning could be done on the EE, but I dont keep coolant in it unless its needed. I tend not to use the EE unless its nessesary.
I was able to get about a 12" piece from each one.
the shafts were 5/8". I used my Hardinge Chucker to cut the two diameters, I did this on both ends of the 12" pieces, I also drilled a small center hole.
I single point threaded the pieces on my EE for a little better fit.
Then I used a 5C workhead on a mill to cut the radiused relief and counter relief, using a footstock to steady the part.
Then back to the Hardinge Chucker to part them off.
All the turning could be done on the EE, but I dont keep coolant in it unless its needed. I tend not to use the EE unless its nessesary.
DaveC
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2006
- Location
- SF Bay Area
Hi PhilipL:
Would you have any info about where a bloke in the New World could get a copy of your MEW article? I'm thinking about making a D1-3 faceplace, since it seems none of the usual vendors has them for sale.
And Donie, would you happen to have a print for those D1-3 pins handy?
Thanks!
DaveC
Would you have any info about where a bloke in the New World could get a copy of your MEW article? I'm thinking about making a D1-3 faceplace, since it seems none of the usual vendors has them for sale.
And Donie, would you happen to have a print for those D1-3 pins handy?
Thanks!
DaveC
donie
Diamond
- Joined
- May 17, 2003
- Location
- Walla Walla Wine and Wild Turkey
I didnt make a full print, I just used an existing pin and a note pad, long gone now.
jefferts
Aluminum
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2006
- Location
- Boulder, CO
Hi Dave,
You can get a reasonable (but not great) chinese faceplate pretty cheap, about $60. I bought a couple for mounting some cheap chucks and they have worked great. I probably woudn't mount a really good chuck as the taper is pretty soft and I suspect it won't last forever. I posted the link a while back under the title D1-3 Backing plates.
Cheers,
Steve
You can get a reasonable (but not great) chinese faceplate pretty cheap, about $60. I bought a couple for mounting some cheap chucks and they have worked great. I probably woudn't mount a really good chuck as the taper is pretty soft and I suspect it won't last forever. I posted the link a while back under the title D1-3 Backing plates.
Cheers,
Steve
Roberto
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2007
- Location
- Bay Area, California
A company that has the plates cheap (D1-3 6" and 8") is shars ( http://www.shars.com ). Not bad once you square them off
BTW, their website is terrible, get their catalog !
Cheers,
Roberto
BTW, their website is terrible, get their catalog !
Cheers,
Roberto
DaveC
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2006
- Location
- SF Bay Area
All I need is a faceplate to drive a dog for turning between centers (for which I'm also looking for an affordable #12 Jarno dead center), or to mount the occasional piece that won't fit in a 4-jaw. So I will have a look at your link, Steve.
Roberto, I will also have a look at Shars.
PhilipL: email address sent, thanks you!
Thanks all!
DC
Roberto, I will also have a look at Shars.
PhilipL: email address sent, thanks you!
Thanks all!
DC
peterh5322
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
- Location
- Monterey Bay, California
"All I need is a faceplate to drive a dog for turning between centers ..."
The 10EE is an excellent lathe for turning between centers, perhaps its specialty.
A 5" dog drive plate with an integral D1-3" back is available, or one could be shop-made. The plates appear frequently on the "usual suspect" site.
The Monarch center is intended to be used with this drive plate. This center has a #12 Jarno taper, and is long enough to project past the drive plate, thereby facilitating operations. This center appears infrequently.
(The lowest cost solution is a scroll chuck and a length of round material which is turned in-place each time it is needed).
The drive plate has slots which accommodate the leg of a dog. With both internal and external slots, dogs of many sizes may be accommodated.
Wooden wedges may be inserted into the slots to keep the dog from flapping about.
The 10EE is an excellent lathe for turning between centers, perhaps its specialty.
A 5" dog drive plate with an integral D1-3" back is available, or one could be shop-made. The plates appear frequently on the "usual suspect" site.
The Monarch center is intended to be used with this drive plate. This center has a #12 Jarno taper, and is long enough to project past the drive plate, thereby facilitating operations. This center appears infrequently.
(The lowest cost solution is a scroll chuck and a length of round material which is turned in-place each time it is needed).
The drive plate has slots which accommodate the leg of a dog. With both internal and external slots, dogs of many sizes may be accommodated.
Wooden wedges may be inserted into the slots to keep the dog from flapping about.
DaveC
Aluminum
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2006
- Location
- SF Bay Area
I haven't seen any 5" dog drive plates anywhere. Where did you see them, Peter?
I was going to make myself a dead center by first making a one-time center in a chuck, then turning the center's taper with an offset tailstock. I'm just not sure how to accurately set the offset. Here's what I was thinking of. Sorry for the JPG
DaveC
I was going to make myself a dead center by first making a one-time center in a chuck, then turning the center's taper with an offset tailstock. I'm just not sure how to accurately set the offset. Here's what I was thinking of. Sorry for the JPG
DaveC
peterh5322
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
- Location
- Monterey Bay, California
"Where did you see them, Peter?"
eBay, to which I often refer, euphemistically, as "the usual suspects".
The dog plate which I purchased had been modified to include a large faceplate.
Removal of the faceplate revealed a nice dog drive plate, marred only by the addition of the threaded holes which had retained the larger plate.
Apparently no one recognized it as a 10EE accessory, so I got it very cheaply. Less than the cost of shipping it, as I recall.
Nice print. Thank you.
eBay, to which I often refer, euphemistically, as "the usual suspects".
The dog plate which I purchased had been modified to include a large faceplate.
Removal of the faceplate revealed a nice dog drive plate, marred only by the addition of the threaded holes which had retained the larger plate.
Apparently no one recognized it as a 10EE accessory, so I got it very cheaply. Less than the cost of shipping it, as I recall.
Nice print. Thank you.
peterh5322
Diamond
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2002
- Location
- Monterey Bay, California
"I'm just not sure how to accurately set the offset."
With the starting material being, say, 1-5/8" ground round shafting (the next size up from 1-1/2", anyway) form the trial center at the right, part off, face and center drill your one-time center on the piece remaining in the chuck, reverse the workpiece ... probably using another chuck, and here is where the good "repeat" of the D1-3" spindle comes in handy, when multiple workholding setups are required ... face and center drill the opposite end of the workpiece, reinstall the chuck with the one-time center, mount the workpiece between centers, using your DTI and two witness marks 6.0000" apart, offset the tailstock for turning a 0.6000" per foot taper, and do so.
Remove the chuck with the one-time center, test the taper in your spindle with machinist's blue.
Repeat until dead on.
Finally, in the spindle, true up the trial center, thereby forming the final center.
Now, to facilitate turning between centers, I would first mill a flat in the cylindrical portion of the workpiece just behind the 60 degree center. That flat would be for the dog.
All testing of the center in the spindle would be with that flat at the #1 Camlock cam position (and all future use of this center would be similarly positioned), and after the center was completed I would stamp a 1 on that flat, as a reminder of its intended position.
I dunno ... that's what comes immediately to mind. I'm still a little sleepy, and am still working on my third cup of coffee.
With the starting material being, say, 1-5/8" ground round shafting (the next size up from 1-1/2", anyway) form the trial center at the right, part off, face and center drill your one-time center on the piece remaining in the chuck, reverse the workpiece ... probably using another chuck, and here is where the good "repeat" of the D1-3" spindle comes in handy, when multiple workholding setups are required ... face and center drill the opposite end of the workpiece, reinstall the chuck with the one-time center, mount the workpiece between centers, using your DTI and two witness marks 6.0000" apart, offset the tailstock for turning a 0.6000" per foot taper, and do so.
Remove the chuck with the one-time center, test the taper in your spindle with machinist's blue.
Repeat until dead on.
Finally, in the spindle, true up the trial center, thereby forming the final center.
Now, to facilitate turning between centers, I would first mill a flat in the cylindrical portion of the workpiece just behind the 60 degree center. That flat would be for the dog.
All testing of the center in the spindle would be with that flat at the #1 Camlock cam position (and all future use of this center would be similarly positioned), and after the center was completed I would stamp a 1 on that flat, as a reminder of its intended position.
I dunno ... that's what comes immediately to mind. I'm still a little sleepy, and am still working on my third cup of coffee.
