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No D1-3 adapters for Buck chucks???

Buck's 2009 catalogue (on their website) shows D1-3" back plates for both the ATSC and the BVC series Ajust-Tru chucks. The BVC series looks essentially identical to the old original made in USA Buck Ajust-tru line in its dimensions. Prices I've seen for these suggest they are not made in the USA. Incidentally this 2009 catalogue says nothing about where Buck chucks are currently manufactured.

As quasi suggests, maybe MSC doesn't list D1-3" backplates because there is less demand, though they do list this size for the Bison chucks. Last I looked both Pratt Burnerd and Kalamazoo chuck had D1-3" backplates. I think their backplates will fit the old style Buck Ajust-tru of the equivalent size. Also I think in general the Bison Set-Tru back plate spigots are a bit smaller than what is needed for the same size Buck Ajust-Tru.
David
 
"Have we fallen out of favor?"

I don't think it is "fallen out of favor" (because in years past the 10EE with its somewhat small D1-3" CamLock spindle was the predominate spindle amongst makers of super-precision lathes), rather, market forces have tended towards a larger spindle, and D1-4" is the present choice.

Amongst engine lathes, whether Monarch or other, D1-6" and D1-8" have always been popular, and apparently remain so.

I think most of us would have preferred that the Lions of Sidney had originally selected D1-4" as their standard for super-precision lathes ... this would have been way, way back in the late 1930s ... but they didn't, and we're stuck with what we have.

I tend to key on D1-3" backs on the "usual suspect" sites, and I buy un-modified backs in that size, usually complete with pins, when available, and at reasonable prices, although anyone who owns a 10EE should be capable of making his/her own backs.
 
I have ordered items from MSC that are not listed in their catalog, for example an A1-2 backplate for a 5" Set-Tru Bison chuck, and BIAX scraper blades. All it takes is phone call.
Harry
 
$190 :eek:. choke. KBC has them, or at least they are in their catalogue. btw, that mount is also used on some Standard Modern lathes like my 12x30

I have a line on a plain back jacobs collet chuck for a prospective 10ee i'm seriously considering, but was disappointing to see that price for the back plate. can the pins be purchased reasonably (I've made them before but that IS a pita)? i have a hunk of cast iron that i could use, so maybe i'll make it....get that taper perfect to a shoulder is a not that easiest thing to do to a very high level of accuracy though, or maybe i just haven't been shown the easy way
 
can the pins be purchased reasonably?
I have a hunk of cast iron that i could use, so maybe i'll make it....get that taper perfect to a shoulder is a not that easiest thing to do to a very high level of accuracy though, or maybe i just haven't been shown the easy way
MSC at www.mscdirect.com sells the pins. Seems to me they're ~$12 each, but don't quote me.

Each camlock size uses different pins. The D1-3" pins are 7/16" diameter.

The taper shouldn't be much of a problem. It decreases from 2.1250" +0 -.0005 to 2.031" +.004 -0 at 3 inches per foot. The inner profile then transitions to a cylindrical relief with a specified depth of 1/2" minimum.

- Leigh
 
The taper shouldn't be much of a problem. It decreases from 2.1250" +0 -.0005 to 2.031" +.004 -0 at 3 inches per foot. The inner profile then transitions to a cylindrical relief with a specified depth of 1/2" minimum.

- Leigh

I've made these tapers before, and pending enlightenment, they are a problem....its not the taper that is the challenge its ensuring, to a high degree of accuracy, that where the surface of the taper meets the face plane such that, at that exact point, the ID is such and such a dimension. measuring a taper is fairly easy, its a rate of change, but how do you measure, precisely, like to a couple of tenths, the dia of the taper at a specific point along its axis?

the way i've done it in the past is with feeler gauges, using a micrometer carriage stop abd a master, keep adjusting the carriage stop (by how much the feeler gauges tell you to) until the two faces are in contact....however i'm not sure this is accurate enough for a collet chuck

If I'm missing some better way to do it, i'm all ears
 
the way i've done it in the past is with feeler gauges, using a micrometer carriage stop abd a master, keep adjusting the carriage stop (by how much the feeler gauges tell you to) until the two faces are in contact....however i'm not sure this is accurate enough for a collet chuck

If I'm missing some better way to do it, i'm all ears

Make a plug master using a good backplate, then use the master to make backplates. Bluing in both cases tell you if the angle is right. Stop cutting when you think it'll take a couple of hits with your fist to make the plug fit into the plate taper. If you take a little too much on the taper just face the flat back a bit, the angle gives you a 10:1 and so a .002" face cut takes the taper in .0002".

I've always wanted to salvage a spindle for a D1-3 master plug, never run into the "right" deal, I guess. I have an indexing faceplate that, while clumsy, works pretty well.
 








 
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