Preparing for the carriage removal-Series 60

I'm preparing myself for carriage removal on my Monarch Ser.60.
Read Harry's thread multiple times, other threads as well. Still not 100% sure I grasped all the details. Scarry!

Question #1: Will I have to remove the taper attachement?

If anyone has time or desire to describe every step of the apron removal, I'll be eternally grateful. What bolts, what pins, etc.

More questions will follow.

It would be a whole easier and lighter if you remove the TA first. Don't forget you have to remove the apron, before the saddle.
Hope you have some lifting equipment.
Harry

I only have a regular 2-ton engine lift. Will it be sufficient?

My main concern is the removal of the apron. I'm not positive I understood how to disconnect all shafts that go through the apron.

The leadscrew is the hard part. Remove the right end bed bracket, remove the shifter casting from the front of the headstock, remove the top cover of the gearbox. Look in the right top of the gearbox and you will see the leadscrew end. It's a very tight fit in there, and you may have to remove the screws on the outside bearing sleeve to buy some room as the extraction progresses. Some will frown on my technique, but I grabbed the leadscrew with one channel lock and the bearing nut on the inside of the gearbox with another channel lock and started turning. It takes a while, that is a very fine pitch screw on the end. As you progress you may run out of room on the inside, what I did was close the half nuts and moved the carriage a little, to get some more room. When you get to the end, don't drop the nut, or you're going to have to go fishing. Once the leadscrew was totally out of the gearbox, I just removed it entirely, but that depends on whether you have apron mounted feed reverse, or not. I got it and used the reverse shaft as the lift point, as you can tell from the pictures in ANT.
The above presumes you have freed up the other shafts; clutch shaft, which is real easy, feed rod, and feed reverse, if present. On my SE 60, these shafts are taper pinned to couplings at the gearbox end.
The weights of the individual assemblies are well below the capacity of your engine lift, just make sure you work safely.
The apron will have to be lowered a bit, for gear clearance, before you pull the apron away from the lathe.
Harry

Excellent explanations! Thank you, Harry! I feel much more confident now.

I'm sure I'll have more questions later when I actually start pulling the bolts out, but it's comforting to know I'm not alone.

Thank you again!

Mike

Take a look at post # 59 "Another New Toy", the square shaft is held in the lever with a taper pin. IIRC, the small end is on the bottom side.
Harry

Thanks Harry,

You're right: the small end is at the bottom.

Now I need to find out how to remove the saddle along with the cross slide and taper attachment...

P.S. Sorry, I accidently deleted my previous post.

Everything is removed. Now the fun will start: cleaning, metering units replacement...

Harry, I don't see any gasket or other sealing around the oil holes that lead from the apron into the saddle. What should be there?

The oil hole from the apron to the saddle should have a shallow counterbore. Use an O-ring. If the hole is deeper than the the O-ring is thick, make a small shim to raise it up, so that when the two are reassembled there is compression to seal the interface.
Harry

Thank you. I found it.

Harry,

How do you remove the cross slide (without removing the taper attachment)? I took the dial handle assembly off already.

Remove the screws behind the compound swivel, remove the tapered gib, and it should come right off .

Do you have a manual?
Harry

Thanks, Harry.

I do have the parts manual, but not everything is clear there.

By the way, do you happen to know if I can substitute MJB-00 and MSA-00 meters with FJB and FSA series, correspondingly. Bijur doesn't list "M" series metering valves at all, and when I browsed the Net, I saw a mentioning that "M" cannot be substituted for "F". They look similar to me, however...

Call Monarch or Bijur.
Harry

Spoke to both of them, finally. They both suggested "J" series as a replacement.
The only difference between the now obsolete "M" and newer "F" series is the pressure needed to open the check valve inside the meter unit. "M" series requires 1/2lb of pressure whereas "F" need 2lb (or was it 4lb
?) to open. As long as a pump is used, there will be no difference in fuctionality between those meters.

Harry,

Do you know how to properly adjust those three screws on top of the cross slide?

Thank you.

Mike

P.S. I, finally, finished reinstallation of the saddle and apron, reinstalled the cross slide and now trying to play with those screws and the gib.

Go to the last picture in post #126 of Another New Toy. The 1st screw in back of the compound goes in the TA binder clamp, and is only tightened when using the TA. It clamps the drawbar against the cross slide. You will notice that the TA has 2 binder screws, the one I just pointed out and the other is on the very back of the TA, it is loosened when using the TA. The other 2 screws are for the nut. Going towards the rear, the middle screw is, supposedly, for backlash adjustment, by cocking the nut, in the cross feed screw. The last screw is for clamping the nut to the cross slide. You're going to have to play with these screws to get the proper adjustment, which is; get the least amount of backlash with the least amount of resistance to the handwheel and keeping the cross slide as smooth sliding and tight as possible to the saddle, and you may have to adjust the gib a couple of times, and you don't want see any motion in the nut screws. Got it???
Somewhere on the forum, someone wrote a nice description of this adjustment, made it sound easy.
Harry

Harry, thank you.

I think I found the thread you mention above: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/adjusting-10ee-crossfeed-screw-backlash-172175/

Again, thank you so much for holding my hand! I owe you.

The lathe is back together.