Pallet Jack + Monarch 10ee

Well, I am back on my 10ee project. In the process of the painful job of stripping the castings down to bare metal. I have done most of the work in the garage, but I was planning on moving it outside for sanding/removing the filler.

I realize I might be a little neurotic here, but I have read the horror stories about how these lathes have a tendency to tip over. I have access to a pallet jack, and the lathe is already on 4x4 timbers. I was thinking about picking up the lathe with the pallet jack where the pallet jack forks are perpendicular to the spindle axis, and rolling it out of the garage (easiest way to tip, but easiest to load as well).

There is a lip at the garage apron that is about 1.5”, I was thinking about stacking a couple pieces of Masonite to build up the level (also help in bring it back in). I have attached a picture, please give me any feedback if you think this will work. I would just be at the flatter, but somewhat uneven, part of the driveway (after I sweep it), with the 4x4 timbers underneath.

What matters is how long are the 4x4's, and how well are they secured. If long enough to be outside the "tilt" for the CG of the lathe, and you go slow to minimize inertia, you're probably fine as long as you do a decent job of ramping the drop.

Glue the pieces of Masonite together, and if needed add some sheet steel over the top to give a proper tapered surface. The less "upset" you impart on the lathe and jack as you move the machine the better.

Having a smart friend to help stabilize (but not get in the drop zone) while you move would be good.

I'd do the work in the garage with a couple of fans blowing all the crap out onto the drive.

But that's just me.

rke[pler said:

I'd do the work in the garage with a couple of fans blowing all the crap out onto the drive.

Click to expand...

Agree. Though there will be a problematic back draft pulling dust back in.

It would be easy to drape a sheet of thin visqueen across the entire door opening. Spring clamps, large binder clips, staples, etc, work well. The visqueen can also be stapled to 1x2" strips to expedite setup and teardown. You can either create an alcove or a small visqueen walled temp room.

I think it wonderful that people are willing to dedicate the time and materials making these machines beautiful.
Personally I just clean, lube and tune.

Watched and listened as 0.4" diameter pass on 3" diameter 10" length of 316SS.. a little squeak and tinkle as chips just tumble away.

61 years old and she still kicks ass.

safe in the shop is where i would do the job...Perhaps with a mask..would wash it with a good oil stripper and mostly jus sand it with not picking out filler..

cotati ca weather - Google Search

Glug said:

Agree. Though there will be a problematic back draft pulling dust back in.

It would be easy to drape a sheet of thin visqueen across the entire door opening. Spring clamps, large binder clips, staples, etc, work well. The visqueen can also be stapled to 1x2" strips to expedite setup and teardown. You can either create an alcove or a small visqueen walled temp room.

Click to expand...

^^^^ this man has the answer.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

PLC said:

Well, I am back on my 10ee project. In the process of the painful job of stripping the castings down to bare metal. I have done most of the work in the garage, but I was planning on moving it outside for sanding/removing the filler.

I realize I might be a little neurotic here, but I have read the horror stories about how these lathes have a tendency to tip over. I have access to a pallet jack, and the lathe is already on 4x4 timbers. I was thinking about picking up the lathe with the pallet jack where the pallet jack forks are perpendicular to the spindle axis, and rolling it out of the garage (easiest way to tip, but easiest to load as well).

There is a lip at the garage apron that is about 1.5”, I was thinking about stacking a couple pieces of Masonite to build up the level (also help in bring it back in). I have attached a picture, please give me any feedback if you think this will work. I would just be at the flatter, but somewhat uneven, part of the driveway (after I sweep it), with the 4x4 timbers underneath.

Click to expand...

So if I was going to do that, I would use at least two 4' long 4x4s on the ends, perpendicular to the bed. With that much width, it would be very difficult to tip it over, provided that you have securely bolted the machine to the 4x4s. I would use 2x6s parallel to the bed to tie the 4x4s together, at least one in front of and behind the lathe. Straps run around the 2x6s could be used to help secure the machine to the "pallet".

To get it out the door, buy some 3/4" thick OSB flooring and stack two layers of the OSB to make a "platform" a bit wider and longer than the footprint of the pallet jack. Place the platform outside the door, against the garage slab. Pick the 10EE and "pallet" up from the front, towards the headstock end. Roll the pallet jack out the door onto the platform. Place scraps of the OSB on either side of the platform to catch the 4x4s if anything tips a bit. Once the 10EE and pallet jack are outside the door and off the slab, remove the scrap OSB under the 4x4s and lower the pallet onto the driveway. Remove the pallet jack and platform. Now you can use the pallet jack to pick the pallet up again and move the machine elsewhere on the driveway.

Don't go nuts stripping the base to bare metal if the paint is solid. Sand it smooth and fill any divots with body filler. Prime, paint, Bob's your Uncle.

Cal

Thanks for all the feedback. Decisions Decisions... I was thinking I would move the lathe outside just to strip/grind/sand and then build a little alcove as suggested out of a PVC framing and cover with visqueen and duct tape to prime/paint. I could grind in the visqueen and then clean thoroughly and rehang some fresh visqueen, but I wasn't sure if I would get it clean enough, and contain the dust.

I also forgot to mention, that I had my floors coated with a polyspartic finish this past summer before I moved all my equipment in the new house. It is really easy to keep clean and I generally like it, however right now I wish I just had bare concrete. I am going to great lengths to protect the flooring for the methylene chloride I am using to strip.

Cal, that sounds like a sound strategy to get it out safely, and if I go this route, I will heed your advice with the 4"x4" + 2"x6" pallet. I had a couple questions though, I am assuming I should through-bolt (using the holes in the mounting feet) with counterbored holes in the timber and machine some thick washers to prevent the lathe from pulling out if began to tip a bit.

Also, I think I was misreading about the OSB platform. I am trying to visualize the last step, where the pallet jack and 10ee are on the platform. How would I get the pallet off the platform, as I would still still be 1.5" above the driveway. Does that make sense?

BGL, I am really just a hack , but thank you. The gents on this forum have inspired me. Daryl, Dave, Cal, Richard, and several others have turned out beautiful lathes. I hope to just come close.

Unfortunately, one thing lead to another and I am past the point of no return with regards to using the original paint as a base. Removed some chipping paint here, a little paint stripper there.... ah hell what have I done...

PLC said:

...

Cal, that sounds like a sound strategy to get it out safely, and if I go this route, I will heed your advice with the 4"x4" + 2"x6" pallet. I had a couple questions though, I am assuming I should through-bolt (using the holes in the mounting feet) with counterbored holes in the timber and machine some thick washers to prevent the lathe from pulling out if began to tip a bit.
...

Click to expand...

Large lag bolts going full depth into the 4x4s are probably enough. Grind off the ends if they're too long.

If you want more, you can drill a counter-bore in the bottom of the 4x4 large enough that you can drive a nut into the counter-bore. For example, if you use 1/2-13 bolts, drill a 3/4" counter-bore (3/4" is the distance across the flats on the nut) and a 1/2" through hole. (I drill the counter-bore first, using a 3/4" Forstner bit, start the 1/2" hole from the bottom with a 1/2" Forstner bit, so everything stays concentric, then finish the through hole with a twist drill.) Often it's easier to put the bolt through from the bottom and use a nut and washer on the top, so you don't have to screw around getting the right length bolt to fully engage your nut without sticking out the bottom. I don't know how much force would be required to pull a 1/2-13 nut or bolt though a 4x4, but I doubt you'll get there unless you do something really bizarre.

Unless you have a drill press handy, it's not easy to drill a 3-1/2" long hole though a 4x4 and have it come out where you want it. Carefully drilling half way through from opposite sides with a smaller drill, say 1/4" will get you started. Once the second hole hits the hole you drilled from the far side it will capture the drill and guide it out the far side, just where you wanted it. Then you ream the hole out from one side using 3/8" then 1/2" drills. And again, lag bolts, run in from the top are MUCH easier.

PLC said:

...
Also, I think I was misreading about the OSB platform. I am trying to visualize the last step, where the pallet jack and 10ee are on the platform. How would I get the pallet off the platform, as I would still still be 1.5" above the driveway. Does that make sense?
...

Click to expand...

One thing that may not be clear is that I'm picturing the 10EE actually touching the pallet jack when you're doing the lifting. The 4x4s are there to support the 10EE so that you can get the pallet jack under it and to limit tipping. The bottoms of the 2x6s are at the level of the bottom of the 10EE / top of the 4x4s. They rest on the pallet jack during lift and prevent tipping, but don't really take much weight.

The platform is a temporary extension of the level of the garage slab. Picture the pallet jack only sitting on the platform with the 10EE and pallet sitting on the pallet jack. If you raised the pallet jack at least 1.5" before it lifted the 10EE in the garage, you'll have enough stroke to lower the 10EE 1.5" below the level of the garage floor and set the 10EE + pallet down on the driveway. You may have to use some shims on the pallet jack's forks to get the right amount of lift to make this work out. Does that make sense?

Cal

Another wrinkle worth repeating - good chance that is lead based paint (anyone know?). Watch the dust. Especially if you have kids. I recall reading a study a while back where surprisingly little lead paint dust can impact kids.

So it's probably a tyvek suit job, because you wouldn't want to bring the clothes into the house, into the laundry, etc. Serious PIA.

PLC said:

then build a little alcove as suggested out of a PVC framing and cover with visqueen and duct tape to prime/paint.

Click to expand...

Step ladders can also be used as temp support structures.

A pallet jack would not be my choice. If the4x4 are the long way then it could be easily set on bars and rolled, but I don't think it would like the driveway.

Push it near the door and blow outside

I have rolled my bare 10EE around with a pallet jack and over trailer and garage thresholds with no real concerns of tipping. I did this with the transformers and DC motor present in the base, which puts the CG pretty low. Just take it slow and easy.

Cal Haines said:

If you raised the pallet jack at least 1.5" before it lifted the 10EE in the garage, you'll have enough stroke to lower the 10EE 1.5" below the level of the garage floor and set the 10EE + pallet down on the driveway. You may have to use some shims on the pallet jack's forks to get the right amount of lift to make this work out. Does that make sense?

Cal

Click to expand...

Yep, I got it now, for some reason, I was thinking that the platform would span the entire foot print of the 10ee. This makes sense - thanks for clarifying.

Makes me feel better that folks have moved these over thresholds with just a pallet jack, I would probably do it without the mg set or the dc set and effectively raising the CG.

Glug, thanks for the reminder about the lead in the paint. Even though the paint tested negative for lead (surprisingly), I have been careful to use a respirator, take off my work clothes before entering the house and washing it separately. Also, the garage is detached from the house. Even still, this was part of the motivation to move it outside. I could strip it and collect the most of chips without worrying about some of them settling in the shop. I do have toddler, so I want to be as careful as possible.

This coming weekend I will figure what the plan is and keep you all posted. Thanks again for all the feedback.

The paint may not be lead based, but I believe that the blackish filler that was used is lead based (although I don't know anyone that has tested it to confirm that).

Cal

When I moved my 10ee into the garage, I used my pallet jack with a 4x4 under the HS and one under the TS end. Had no problems. To get over the lip at the threshold, I lifted the pallet jack with about 6 inches between the HS end of the base and the swivel head part of the pallet jack. Then I rolled up to the lip, set the 4x4s down on some 2x lumber stacked up to the level of the pallet jack forks. Moved the pallet jack forward to take up that 6 inches, picked it back up and repeated with the trailing wheels. Never had a worry about needing momentum to overcome any change in altitude.

Dave