Rivett 1020S info needed...

I've replaced the cross slide screw and nut, new thrust bearings in the CS and compound and got the taper attachment freed up and cleaned. I'm taking the carriage off to clean the oil passages and I'd like to take the apron off to clean inside and replace the oil pump O-rings. Now I'm pretty sure the carriage removel is a straight forward job, but the apron I'm not so sure. I would imagian the feed rod/lead screw brkt on the tail stock end of the lathe will have to come off. But I don't know if the feed rod/lead screw just slide out of the gear box or not. Then theres taking the front off of the apron, is anything part wise going to jump out or will every thing stay put? If anyone has been thru before this I could use some guidance on procedure. Thanks for any advice.

I can't help you here, but watching closely as this is something I will be doing to mine once I get the final electrical sorted out.

I was looking at this a week or two ago and was thinking the top piece on the compound might come off, allowing access and/or allowing the apron to be taken off. I hadn't thought about the lead screw, on the SB 10 I disassembled it did require the lead screw be pulled out from the half nuts, but it might be possible to remove the Rivett apron without, I'm not sure. IOW, that the apron could be pulled away from the lead screw.

As I recall, Cal disassembled Kevin's 1020s, and maybe he'll have some advice. I'm watching to see if he or someone else has advice for you that is useful.

Cheers,
Alan

The front of the apron comes right off, it's a beautiful thing. Just take out all of the cap screws you see, pull it off. On the lathe is easiest.

rustygreen said:

The front of the apron comes right off, it's a beautiful thing. Just take out all of the cap screws you see, pull it off. On the lathe is easiest.

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So there's nothing that will fall out when you pull the front panel off? That would be the easiest way.
As for the carriage, I'm sure there are about 8 cap screws on the back side that hold the carriage gib plate and 8 screws the bolt into the apron. Also have to take the carriage lock screw out and possibly the thread dial plate.

rustygreen said:

The front of the apron comes right off, it's a beautiful thing. Just take out all of the cap screws you see, pull it off. On the lathe is easiest.

Click to expand...

This wasn't entirely clear to me, but catman was explaining a couple points you mentioned to him.

The end which supports the lead screw and rods comes off and evidently the lead screw and rods pull out from the headstock end, where splines hold them secure to spin.

Here's the front and back of the apron, from Tony Griffith's site. From your comments rusty, I would expect the entire apron to stay on the bed if the front of the apron is removed, is that correct? Do you need to remove any of the handles/levers ??? Seems not, so it seems like a pretty straight forward task. When those SHCSs are removed, does the front just pull out and come off?

catman60957 said:

So there's nothing that will fall out when you pull the front panel off? That would be the easiest way.
As for the carriage, I'm sure there are about 8 cap screws on the back side that hold the carriage gib plate and 8 screws the bolt into the apron. Also have to take the carriage lock screw out and possibly the thread dial plate.

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The stop rod will need to be taken out also, if there is one on the lathe. My stop rod is activated when the apron reaches the end of the bed, as it is when the apron reaches the headstock.

I don't know if it is possible to add "apron" to the subject so that in the future we can search for apron to get this information ????

Cheers,
Alan

Yes, The apron will stay attached to the saddle if the front cover is removed.
The half nut lever needs to be removed. and the handwheel.
The stop rod can be unbolted from the bottom of the apron.
Yes when the socket head screws ( don't forget the two big ones between the clutch lever housings) are removed the cover should just pull off. It might require a little wiggling to persuade it.
To lift the saddle off the apron the carriage lock nut and the threading dial need to be removed. Greg.

rustytool said:

Yes, The apron will stay attached to the saddle if the front cover is removed.
The half nut lever needs to be removed. and the handwheel.
The stop rod can be unbolted from the bottom of the apron.
Yes when the socket head screws ( don't forget the two big ones between the clutch lever housings) are removed the cover should just pull off. It might require a little wiggling to persuade it.
To lift the saddle off the apron the carriage lock nut and the threading dial need to be removed. Greg.

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Greg,

Thanks for this info, will be useful for me.

I have my fingers crossed to get my friend over next week and hoping to get the final electrical sorted out so I can move on to some of this stuff. So close, so close, so close but yet so far away...

Cheers,
Alan

Greg,

Are you familiar with the conduit box that is attached to the spindle motor?

That seems as though it is plumb smack behind the center divider of the base, on the back side.

I wasn't sure how the metal base/platform was supposed to slide out, there doesn't appear to be any rollers. Is it possible to get to the conduit box without pulling all the belts and sliding the metal base/platform out? That looks like a lot of work...

Cheers,
Alan

I removed the apron on my 1020s to repair the oil pump. The oil pan was muddy and the oil lines clogged. Removed the oil pump, cleaned the oil sump, replaced o rings, replaced two way valves, cloared clogged lines. Was able to run the oil pump under power and oil didn't flow out of the manifold. I'm stumped