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Where can I buy belts for a 10EE

tecate

Aluminum
Joined
Aug 28, 2007
Location
Memphis
Monarch wanted $115 for the flat drive belt
(ee-2906) and $240 for the small idler pulley (ee-1413). Is there anywhere else to buy from? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I am using a serpentine belt for the feed drive. NAPA $25 running with the vee's on the pulleys.
My idlers are plastic, look original.
 
I am using a serpentine belt as well. It won't do any good to ask which model or size; the belt size varies from lathe to lathe for reasons known only to Monarch.

I have an extra aluminum idler pulley (for the main drive belts) in good shape. $25. Email if you are interested and let me know if you also need the mounting hardware.

-Dave
 
I have an extra aluminum idler pulley (for the main drive belts) in good shape. $25. Email if you are interested and let me know if you also need the mounting hardware.
EE-1413 is the little pulley for the flat belt used in the feed system.
 
Thanks for the offer, but it is the smaller pulley that I need. If anyone has one I would like to buy at a reasonable price.

Also, with all the machinists on this site, someone could make a fortune making these types of parts for this machine. Thanks
 
Also, with all the machinists on this site, someone could make a fortune making these types of parts for this machine.
I don't agree. If you were going to make that pulley and mount you'd likely charge about what Monarch does. To support this assertion here's a detail of the pulley from a print:

10ee_small_pulley.gif


If you look at this there are 6 parts that are not "off the shelf", 2 with bearing bore or surfaces (the through part and the pulley), 2 ground flat with tenths tolerances (the bearing spacers) and finally the fixturing for the mount (machined from a casting). Even if you were to hog the mount from solid you're looking at several dozen machining operations and a couple of fixtures. If you were setup to make this you're likely looking at about 4 hours work to make one and 2 hours additional for each extra.

I'd call Monarch and ask about a used assembly, or check with Russ Roeder at Roeder Industries (or Al Sharon in Sonora, CA) for the same thing.
 
Dave, I would be interested in the idler and any hardware that you have with it. My machine is missing all the parts for the tensioner so my belts are just flapping in the wind at this point.
 
If you would like to make yours, I have a starter piece. Threaded shaft 12mm turned from a hex shaft of 27mm on which are mounted two sealed BB 47mm dia. 12mm wide each, retained with a snap ring. New unused. With crowned pulleys you might use it as is, if they are flat, flanges would be needed for sure. $10
 
I do have a couple delrin flanged pulleys that I was planning on making the idlers out of. But if I can avoid making the brackets then that would be nice.

My machine has dual V Belts.
 
When I bought my used 10EE about 30 years ago the flat feed belt was a section of inner tube. It is still running that way. I have aquired a genuine Monarch flat belt and someday I am going to put it in. I can only hope it will last as long and run as well as the inner tube does.
 
Thanks rke[pler
Luckily I have the belt that came off so I can try the serpentine belt idea. I also called a bearing place here locally that sells industrial belts and they said that they could more than likely find something that will work. Thanks again for the info and drawing.
 
The small idler is seizing up after a few minutes of running and this is what caused the belt to break. Is there a possibility that this bearing can be taken out of the pulley and matched up with a vanilla bearing? It appears by the looks of the drawing that it is actually EE-1416.
 
Is there a possibility that this bearing can be taken out of the pulley and matched up with a vanilla bearing?
Sure, you can get replacements for all of the bearings in the 10EE, most are marked for easy crossing and the rest can be located by looking up the bearing specs (ID, OD and width). Some of the bearings aren't being made anymore and can be hard to find, for those I use General Bearing in Los Angeles.

For this one I'd get a couple matching size but double sealed but I bet that it's one of the weird ones with the extended ID. If you have trouble finding them just put some spacers on regular bearings, this isn't a critical application.
 
Thanks. You are correct in that it is not mission critical. I can't wait to get this thing up and going. I really bought an overkill machine for my application. The only part I need to make is a 12" shaft that is 3" in diameter that has blades cut into it. I am going to turn down the ends to 1" in diameter for the shafts. I can buy the part but it will cost me $550 plus $100 in shipping. I figured I could do better just making it myself.
 
I think this may not be the best machine for roughing out a 3x12 chunk of steel.

I think I would want something a bit bigger than an EE.
 
I hope I can do it on this machine, because it's all I got. What would be the downfall to using this machine? Thanks
 
I don't see any problem using the 10EE on some 3x12 work, as long as it't not a production job. In production you might rough out the work on some other lathe and reserve the 10EE for precision finishing; but in the home shop you run what you got.
 








 
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