LB10 way lube system and control?

landslide · Jul 22, 2017

I have acquired an old LB10 and I’m not sure the way lube is functioning. I found two loose oil lines to the saddle and they have air in them. I have tightened them up but they still have air in them. I have tried the instructions to forcibly pump oil through the system but it doesn't seem to do much and they still have air. Are there any ways to check the system?

The control box has also been modified with a two handed cycle start which is annoying. I don’t have wiring diagrams and I’m unfamiliar with this control. What button should action midi commands?
Attached is a picture of the control. The cycle start on the left has no effect on midi or automatic programs. The one on the right is unlabelled and I’m unsure of what it is for and it has no effect on the cycle but the wires are labelled similarly.

ewlsey · Jul 22, 2017

Your metering units are probably blocked up and not letting the oil through. You should replace them all. Money well spent.

Does the machine have a pneumatic door? Usually that is the reason for having two cycle start buttons. Keeps your fingers out of harms way when the door slams shut.

Other Brother · Jul 23, 2017

Wes is right about the metering units being stuck or you could have one that is open not letting the others fill.

For troubleshooting I usually disconnect all of the output lines on every metering unit then bring the machine out of e-stop. Once the pump turns off you should see a squirt of oil out of every metering unit. The way the system works, as the pump is running it is filling a cavity in each metering unit and when the pump shuts off a spring forces the piston to pump the oil out of the cavity. If you see a steady stream from any of the metering units that is bad because there is not enough pressure to fill the other metering units so the only one getting oil is the one with the bad check ball. Every time you clear e-stop the pump will run and when it shuts off you should see a small amount of oil. No oil is bad, and steady stream is bad while the pump is running.

Clear as mud?

If you have a lot of time on your hands you can disassemble them and clean them and reassemble with clean way lube.

Good luck, Daryl

ewlsey · Jul 23, 2017

Someone claimed you can clear them out by cleaning them in an ultrasonic cleaner. I've never tried it.

New units are around $8 each. Your machine probably has 30 or so units. So for $250, just replace them all. It's a cheap insurance.

landslide · Jul 24, 2017

I'm a bit worried the stepper motor pump isn't functioning since after all the forced pumping there still isn't any oil on any of the ways.
I'll disconect them and see if the oil is flowing then check the valves individualy.

ewlsey · Jul 24, 2017

You should get an alarm if the pump fails to make pressure within the time interval set in the control.

landslide · Jul 26, 2017

thanks ewlsey thats reasuring. no alarms so I'll assume it is working.

deadlykitten · Jul 26, 2017

ewlsey said:
You should get an alarm if the pump fails to make pressure within the time interval set in the control

hello / about this i was told that, after an interval, pressure is checked :
... if too low, than something leaks
... if too high, than something blocks

kindly !

ewlsey · Jul 26, 2017

Most CNC machines do not monitor pressure. They have a pressure switch and they monitor time. So, the CNC knows it should get a signal from the switch within a preset time limit, lets say 10 minutes. If it does not get that signal, it gives an alarm. The CNC also knows that if the signal from the switch stays on for too long, the system is blocked up. So, if the pressure does not go back to 0 in a preset time, it gives an alarm.

deadlykitten · Jul 26, 2017

hy ewlsey

did you learned that the hard way ?

landslide · Aug 5, 2017

I looked at the manual and the way points on the castings are just elbows. I don't think there is any metering or check valve in them.

I disconnected the oil line from the pump and it is pumping oil.

I disconnected individual lines and they are not blocked as I can blow air down them.

Most of the lines refill except for two or three. I'm confused, i'll have to call okuma and see what advice they have.

landslide · Sep 9, 2017

To follow up for those that may have a similar need. the metering valves aren’t at the ends of the lines, they are in the distribution blocks.
they are Showa dpb dester plunger valves the metering amount and series is found stamped into the copper and manifold. I haven’t found individual parts only whole manifold block replacements.

Brian · Sep 16, 2017

Try here for the metering units:

Showa

marlon.hababag · Sep 21, 2017

landslide said:
I looked at the manual and the way points on the castings are just elbows. I don't think there is any metering or check valve in them.

I disconnected the oil line from the pump and it is pumping oil.

I disconnected individual lines and they are not blocked as I can blow air down them.

Most of the lines refill except for two or three. I'm confused, i'll have to call okuma and see what advice they have.

sir' try to clean or replace the distribution block. i guess some piston are clogged.

Sent from my A1601 using Tapatalk

landslide · Sep 27, 2017

Brian said:
Try here for the metering units:

Showa

they dont look like they will fit.

after following other brothers test procedure and a little cleaning they seem to be working again.

I will replace them shortly with SKF parts just because i can get them for less than the showa units.

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