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Colchester Student followed me home

playsk8r

Plastic
Joined
Jul 26, 2013
Location
Canada
Hope this is the right spot here. I Just picked this up this weekend. A Colchester Student Dominion 13. It's grimy as all hell but in good shape
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QT:It's grimy as all hell but in good shape.
Doesn't look that grimy, but bring it by and drop it off for a few years and I will clean it up for you.

Your supposed to show it off safe on your shop floor because if you dump it then it wont look as good.

*Nice find for sure.
Wecome to PM
Buck
 
Hopefully you got it unloaded before those cheap tie downs from the Dollar Store snapped and ruined your day.
Stopped at the nearest Canadian tire and got some proper straps. I wasn't driving, but my friend who did forgot the real 3" straps. I flat out refused to do the drive without proper straps.

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Stopped at the nearest Canadian tire and got some proper straps. I wasn't driving, but my friend who did forgot the real 3" straps. I flat out refused to do the drive without proper straps.

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Quick update. Got the lathe home and I'm now working on cleaning it up. I did an oil change, and man am I glad I did. So far only 1 broken part. I think I'm doing ok.
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Just picked one up myself. I'm thinking the same model. The cross feed is engaged buy the sliding lever and it doesn't have tslots on the saddle. Had to replace the driven shaft in the quick change due to it being twisted not alowing the first lever to slide the gear inside. Just wondering if you know the model number. The only number I can find is on the ways (machine no 21881). I want to get the manual for it but need the year and model number. Thanks
 
it doesn't have tslots on the saddle.f you know the model number. The only number I can find is on the ways (machine no 21881). I want to get the manual for it but need the year and model number.
I think that the only machines with T-slots on the saddle are those with a gap bed.

If you know that it is a "Student", there are Mk 1, Mk 1-1/2, and Mk 2 versions. The first two both have the "round top" while the Mk 2 is decidedly squarish with a flat top on the headstock. The Mk 1-1/2 is essentially a Mk 1 but with the "safety apron" of the Mk 2. The difference between the Master and Student is center height, the former being higher.

You may be able to determine the exact model by looking at the information of the various Colchester lathes at Tony's site:
Colchester lathes

The folks at Clausing were able to get a manual for me for my Mk 1-1/2 using only the serial number stamped on the bed. They do have some parts but most are frightfully expensive. Fortunately, some parts such as O-rings, gaskets, etc. are either common parts or can be easily fabricated. And, as you have done, other parts can be fabricated if one has the equipment and skills.

Clausing Industrial | Machine Tools | CNC | Manufacturers | Distribution
 
There are plenty of roundtop Student manuals online.........its the other models its hard to find manuals......If you have the sliding selector in the apron,then its a pre 1963...........the one in the pic is such.......slightly later they went to the "safety saddle" with the kickout feeed setup ,just like the Bantam........do note that the sliding feed does NOT kickout under load ,and bed stops and other assorted foolishness will cause busted gears .....and as we see here...twisted feed shafts.
 
do note that the sliding feed does NOT kickout under load
I got the clear impression that it did - I've never tried to confirm that, however. The attached image is an excerpt from the manual for a lathe with the safety apron. It seems to say that it does kick out. The handle #2 twists in either direction to increase or decrease the force required.

This does not apply to the screwcutting feed. The only protection there is a shear pin in the gearbox.

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Our Colchester Clausing 15x48 looks to be the same generation as your lathe (sliding selector, same handles and tags). It's a well built lathe that can take a serious cut!

We use water soluble coolant on ours, which necessitates keeping up with the maintenance and cleaning. I also built a splash/chip guard that rolls along the front and back lips of the chip pan. With that set-up, we can run full pressure coolant at higher speeds and there's nearly no mess.
 
Don,by sliding feed ,I mean the type with the sliding handle that goes into either of two slots.......refer picture post #1...........a new owner must be completely clear in understanding that this type of apron feed does NOT kick out,and as load increases ,the lever becomes locked immovably in engagement...........The "safety saddle" in your little pic does kickout...........this what some call the Mk 1 1/2.
 
Found out today that there is definitely no kickout on this model. Was giving it the first powered run since I got it. Had the saddle up against the headstock. Was checking the ways at the tail end when the threading handle dropped due to a missing detent ball. Jamed everything up and wrecked two gears. (Change gears back of headstock ). It shouldn't have happened because there is supposed to be a shear pin on the first driven gear. But someone decided to use a set screw instead. Now I know how they managed to twist the shaft. And if the Chang gears on the swing frame stay close in gear count for this vintage, it turns out that they are the wrong ones. I've got a 42 tooth on the driving shaft and a 127 idler. Those got damaged. I'm supposed to have 21 driven and a 120 idler. Now I've got to source thiese. I can get them through Boston gear but $300 is a bit pricy. Any ideas of a source?
 
I pulled the feed screw and feedshaft to clean under the apron etc. While doing so I was having a hard time pulling the feedshaft from the gearbox. I couldn't locate any pins holding it. It did move slightly out then back with some tapping. I used a brass drift and gave it a shot. It came out and I noticed 2 ball barings set into the shaft with a flathead adjustment screw in the end that pushed on a spring. The spring pushed on another ball that held tension on the two that sat proud of the shaft. The coller it was set into had a race and two holes drilled into the sides to act as sort of a detent. It seems that if the feedshaft jams that the balls act as a slip clutch. The manual I have makes no menation of this in the parts breakdown. Has anyone seen this or is this something someone did custom?
 








 
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