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Graziano SAG 12, new to me. Pre-start recommendations?

drzipper

Hot Rolled
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Location
seattle
Hi I will be bringing this as yet untested Graziano SAG 12 home next week. Yes I have my fingers crossed that the clutches are all sound. Would someone be so kind as to give me a pre-flight check list of things I should look at and for just prior to and just after start up? I understand the basics on how to run it and I have watched the online videos so I know what they sound like. What I would like to know is what to listen for and what to immediately look at?

TIA,

David
 

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A few more pics:
 

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Sag 12

greetings David


did you bag the 12 at Lukas?

I bought Sag 12 on ebay 2 years ago--Fresno

drove to Yreka in my F250--took a nap in back jump seat and woke up with numb, weak
left arm and twisted neck-- not good
so I called seller and he let me off
regained neuro-muscular function 4 hours later but sobering event

lookiing forward to progress reports on this

j
 
I would get the motor running, make sure it doesn't turn it self off after a few seconds.
Select a low speed on joy stick, then lift the lever up for forward running. It should respond instantly. Once running, click through all speeds and make sure they change instantly.
Drop joy stick down into reverse and check all four speeds are good in reverse.
Go between forward and reverse (in a low speed), it should handle this instantly.
This checks all four speed clutches and the two directional clutches.
If the motor has two speeds (it looks like it does), try both speeds.
Every time a clutch is operated, it should work instantly and smoothly.
Check the same sequence with the back gear in and out (tortoise/hare).
Work the feed box through all ratios, check screw cutting engages, feeds engage.

I see the way covers are missing under the chuck. There should be light gauge sheetmetal covers there to keep swarf off the ways.
 
Peter,

Many thanks.
Assuming all is good should I change the fluid and clean the filter?
What is the correct type and quantity of the hydraulic o
Does anyone have a manual or a link to one?

Regards,
David
 
Make sure the oilpressure switch for the oilpump on the gearbox is working
Often it is disconnected as it is switching a timer with the same DC current as from the clutches That timer is a homebrew device which arcs like crazy sometimes and then burns the switch That is a commen problem on a SAG 12
I have taken out the timer and then it is switching AC current
Only thing is you have the hold the ON button for a second till you have oilpressure

Peter from holland
 
Kawgomoo,

ty, Please repost the link as it is faulty. Why would you trade?

Peter,

TY, Where exactly is this switch?

David
 
Peter,

No worries, great info. I hadn't found that thread (yet). I'm pretty excited to find out the exact condition

David
 
Another Seattle Sag 12

drzipper,

I'm nearly done with my VFD conversion on my Sag 12. You're welcome to come look at it if you like. I live in the Wallingford district of north Seattle. I think you're the person I bought a Powermatic 1200 drill press from. Ugly machine, works great! I'll try to attach a few pics of my Grazzi. The Photobucket site has undergone some changes and I'm not sure if my pics will transfer as clickable thumbnails.

The lathe was very little used and came with most accessories including taper attachment, both rests, 3 & 4 jaw chucks, 5C collet chuck, blah blah. I operated it first using a RPC but couldn't stand the combined noise so went to a VFD. My problem was (is) a lack of knowledge of anything electronic. Fortunately I had a LOT of help from a former co-worker who is an electronics tech and also some wonderful advise and help from Lakeside53, AKA Andy. There was help also from Gizmowizard, AKA Paul, another local Sag 12 owner that installed a VFD. My biggest mistake was assuming that a 3 HP VFD would suffice. It doesn't, really. Andy programmed in a couple work-arounds on the Hitachi WJ200 VFD and it was Andy that suggested that I put all controls to the right of the carriage. What a great idea. I love the remote console. I added a Machtach RPM/SFM readout (can't say enough about Machtach and it's owner, Henry Arnold) and the Hitachi remote is also mounted on the articulating arm along with all controls. It turns out that Gizmowizard installed a 5 HP VFD but I never thought to ask him what size drive he used, again assuming that it would be 3 HP. Duh!

Anyway all's well that ends well and I love how the lathe operates now. It's been a long grind but quite enjoyable and I may have accidently learned a few things.......like ask more questions before I start a project about which I don't know diddly squat!

Nearlydone_zps6786f6f7.jpg


carriage_zpsca9c448a.jpg


tailstockend_zpsc2e2718e.jpg


remoteconsole_zpsd936b94b.jpg


enclosureclosed_zps560d9e66.jpg


enclosureopen_zps536237a7.jpg


headstockgeartrain_zpsecf111e8.jpg
 
Last edited:
Smart and Brown is fine; the Harding TL or the Rivett 608 are hurting. I actually think it might be time to sell the Metric 608
 
SAG 12 Electricsl

Turns out and no surprise the lathe is wired 440V. Here is the question:
Should I pull a 440V lead off the transformer that powers my S&B 1024?
Do I re-wire the motor leads to 220V?
If I re-wire is the 220V going to be compatible with the motor control box?

I opened the motor to check the lead diagram and there is no relationship between the wiring plate and the motor lead numbers.

I looked in the manual and the wiring diagram does not appear to be the same as what I have. Does anyone have a diagram for mine (pictured below).

TIA,

David
 

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My "Boy"

So the guy in charge of the warehouse where the machine was wanted to go home early and kept asking where "my boy?". My boy. Brian Healy was a little late but did eventually get there.

So here are pics of "my boy" in action rigging away

Brian, if you are reading this, Thanks so much for helping out.Graziano SAG 12 11Apr13 002.jpgGraziano SAG 12 11Apr13 003.jpgGraziano SAG 12 11Apr13 004.jpgGraziano SAG 12 11Apr13 005.jpgGraziano SAG 12 11Apr13 012.jpg
 
Turns out and no surprise the lathe is wired 440V. Here is the question:
Should I pull a 440V lead off the transformer that powers my S&B 1024?
Do I re-wire the motor leads to 220V?
If I re-wire is the 220V going to be compatible with the motor control box?

I opened the motor to check the lead diagram and there is no relationship between the wiring plate and the motor lead numbers.

I looked in the manual and the wiring diagram does not appear to be the same as what I have. Does anyone have a diagram for mine (pictured below).

TIA,

David

David,

If the lathe is currently wired for 440V and you provide 440V supply to it, you should be good to go. If you opt to provide 220V to the machine, you will have to change the wiring on your control transformer to the 220V configuration shown on the transformer ID plate as well as changing the motor wiring configuration to 220V. Also, if it has a coolant pump, you need to check the voltage requirements for it as well.

Ted
 








 
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