Harrison 10-AA/Colchester Chipmaster info

Hello, I've got a Harrison badged 10-AA lathe that I've been using/restoring. I'm missing a couple things and wonder if anyone has information they would be willing to share.

1) The chip guard on the back of the machine attaches to a bolt/stud on the headstock to keep it from falling off. It is one of the countersunk fasteners that secure a cover for one of the shafts in the headstock. When I got mine, that was missing. I would like to recreate one like the original. Any of you have a detailed picture you would share with me?

2) I'm looking for a steady rest for it. If you have one, would you be willing to let me "borrow" it to take measurements and make patterns to recreate it? If you know of one for sale, great. But if I can't buy one, I could cast/machine a new one.

3) Less of a priority, but anyone know of a taper attachment for this lathe?

Thanks in advance. I love the little lathe. I've converted it over to a single speed motor with VFD control as my variator was long since gone when I picked my unit up at auction.

-Matt

Hi Matt, I've just taken a shot of the screw but haven't the nous to attach it here. Perhaps I'll attach it to a PM. Meanwhile imagine a deep hex head screw 1.325" overall length, threaded section 1/4" UNC x 0.670" long. The flat topped hex is 0.562" A/F x 0.280" long, undercut by a groove 0.158" wide x 0.380" root dia when commences the nominally 90 degree cone down to the thread leaving about 0.040" land of the hex flat ... no wonder we use drawings! Guessing it's probably a bit of 1045.
Steady rest:anything you can make would be more substantial than Colchester's, fixed or travelling.
Taper attachment: was once in pursuit of same for mine. Finally opted for a Mimik tracer.

I sure appreciate the reply! I sort of follow your description of the bolt. The picture would help if you've got one. You can send to my email: matthew dot greenlaw at gmail.

For the steady, I've looked at making my own, but I already have so many projects--I was trying to not have another one. I'm sure everyone on this board can relate to this. I'll look into the Mimik tracer; never heard of one.

Cheers,
-Matt

I made a steady for my Chippie from a Metal Lathe Accessories (MLA) casting set. I used a chunk of Durabar gray iron as a riser block/base, and doweled the MLA casting to it. I went overboard, because my steady is kind of jig-borer quality where it is totally uncalled for, and I have probably used it twice in 18 years!!! That is partly explained by my acquisition of a Monarch 10EE with its own steady. I have the OEM follower rest for the Chippie, tried to use it once, and gave up in frustration.

Hi Matt,I'll send you an email with pics. I have both steadies & will snap them & include critical dimensions. Might not be till tomorrow. R. Klopp's steady probably would not blow away like the original might. The originals may be adequate, but truly disgusting in 'feel right' terms.

Swarfless, from your detailed discussion, here is what I came up with...most of the dimensions worked. I think what is below will work fine. Any comments?

You got it Matt, spot on. Your version is superior to Colchester's, they didn't bother to reduce the top of the cone to circular, merely leaving it hex. To be charitable their idea may have been to introduce a locking effect in the round csk. Just in passing, the cone is obviously nominally 90 degrees but I popped it onto the profile projector & it's actually 92.25 degrees. I don't think you need emulate that!Hmm although that might just introduce that locking effect I surmised. I will send snaps of the steadies eventually & also explain the Mimik choice by email.

Did you get the emails Matt? If so, more to follow.

swarfless said:

Did you get the emails Matt? If so, more to follow.

Click to expand...

Yes, I sure did! I was just writing you a response. I'll post some pics of the completed pieces as this progresses.

Great stuff Matt, thanks for the guide to posting images,I'd never seen that toolbar. Thanks to you I did a little digging & found it. I wouldn't get too concerned about the history of Chipmasters & their rack & pinion problem, it can't be universal but does arise in some. I think a simple test would be to push the saddle along the bed by hand on say the toolpost. If you get a GGRRRRRD sound could be there's a problem.

Update: Trevor, thanks for the information. I had to make a few changes from your dimensions to make it work. Here is the final version I ended up with. One more item that is fixed and back to functionally working on my lathe! Thanks for your help.