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It is, but that's an entirely different category of machine. There are lots of tiny turning centers out there, including the "office lathe" by Haas.This is a cute little bugger as well : Inhee Corporation Co.,Ltd
Yeah now that I have this one I start to wonder why I should keep my beloved Schaublin 135....heresy !If I were to move out of my beloved Graziano Sag 12, it'd be towards one of those cnc / manual lathes.
How is it to use, and how'd you get such a clean one? Was it sitting in storage for ten years?
Yes, the dual Alpha / Fanuc boot up was new for 1999. Re the Aloris on a lathe of this ilk, we were discussing just that in the CNC forum last week and surprised you didn't surface on that discussion...esp when your past posts on the subject were interjected I figured your ears would be burningD:
Pretty darn cute.
Glad it is one with the "real" Fanuc control..Harrison made some models that only can use the "Alpha" programming and that totally sucks IMHO.
If ya want it to be repeat accurate, pitch that Aloris styls post and get yourself a good Multi Fix with a ton of holders....
My Romi has 64 offsets and i have about half set with tools all ready to go.
Don,
Doesn't look like that cute little thing has a geared head? So how slow will it go and what kind of torque does it have going slow?
Low range is 17.5 to 1750 rpm, high range is 35 to 3500 rpm. As Tony mentioned this is acomplished by changing the belt (a triple V belt).....quick and easy...just open the left side door, pull up on the blue handle (see last photo, bottom left) which raises the motor, move belt over and lower motor.Doesn't look like that cute little thing has a geared head? So how slow will it go and what kind of torque does it have going slow?
Off the subject but another interesting feature is the overhead coolant guard uses safety glass, not plexiglass or lexan...so the view is crystal clear and should stay that way a long time.
Watch out for the slugs created by insert drills. They come out between the chuck jaws at speed and break the safety glass quite nicely, even after being deflected by a guard. After a few glass windows and several strategies to avoid such, we replaced the glass with lexan on my Milltronics. Milltronics placed a perforated steel guard over the glass to contain fragments, and it was needed.Off the subject but another interesting feature is the overhead coolant guard uses safety glass, not plexiglass or lexan...so the view is crystal clear and should stay that way a long time.
Oh well...I suspected there might be some disadvantage to safety glass since I've never seen it used on other CNC machines. But I thought maybe on a lathe not meant for production it might be ideal. It sure is nice from a clarity standpoint, so I'll leave it be for now.Funny you should mention that. I had had mine about a year, and the agents rang me and said they needed to come and change the glass. Apparentley there had been some shattering problems, so they came and replaced it with a plexiglass one. It was much like a recall on a car.
All the later ones came with a plexiglass shield.
Can you better define "broken one" ? In other words, did you have an isolated "bullet hole" looking break, a shattering of the entire glass, an isolated crack...or ??Coolant cover doors on my Romi are Safety Glass, as supplied original.
Have broken one
Oh well...I suspected there might be some disadvantage to safety glass since I've never seen it used on other CNC machines. But I thought maybe on a lathe not meant for production it might be ideal. It sure is nice from a clarity standpoint, so I'll leave it be for now.
Isolated glass breakage is ok as long as objects don't go thru it...I imagine slugs might go thru plexiglass and lexan given the right size and speed. Sometimes a pretty large rock will hit a car window at 75 mph and it would be highly unlikely the rock would actually penetrate the glass...maybe it happens, but I've never heard of one penetrating into the cabin.
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