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Leinen LZ 4 S

Anzaniste

Plastic
Joined
Jun 2, 2005
Location
Scrooby, England
I've just got a new toy, a Leinen LZ 4 S.

Anybody else out there got one? I'm looking for steadies as it doesn't have either type. Any other bits could be of interest.

It should land in the shed next week so pictures to follow.

Does anybody know what type of collets it uses, are they special Leinen ones?

This is what it looks like.


Leinen Collet 001 by Anzaniste, on Flickr
 
Leinen LZ4P

[Hello Anzaniste,

Congratulations on your purchase. You will find the Leinen is a real quality machine and very easy to work on. I have about a 6 months headstart on you in rebuilding a similar lathe so i might be able to give some information or tips.
You also can find information about your lathe on lathes
The collets you asked about are indeed Boley&Leinen collets and I don't think any other make will fit. Full sets of collets sometimes appear on german Ebay and you also should check Ebay.de ""Kleinanzeigen". This is a special free add section and a lot of interesting tools are offered for low prices. If you need help translating please let me now and i will help you.
:cheers:
Wim
 

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Thanks for letting me piggyback on your collet discussion.

Are these collets 5C collets. I have a box full. Some say boley and leinen, one says Hardinge, and some are not marked. They are 3.410 overall, .985 body diameter and .895 thread diameter.

I cannot figure out the collet closer. Can anyone tell me about what parts I may be missing? Pictures are attached, hopefully.

[email protected]
 

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collet pulltube

Hello Bigpete,

I have attached some photo's of the Leinen collet closing system. The first photo shows the bush with on the outside diameter a groove with a bronze ring. This ring, which is stationary, is pushed backwards by te lever. This makes the bush which has a tapered inside diameter actuate the two pawls. These pawls push on a steel ring inside the aluminium handwheel of the pulltube (photo 2). This is the part you are missing. The pulltube has a inner thread of M23x1 on the other side where the collets are screwed in. Photo 3 shows a bar with two flat sides that is there to guide the lever. This bar has a push fit in the back of the headstock. I hope this explains things. If you decide to make the missing parts yourself i can measure them up for you.
:cheers:
Wim
 

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I cant believe it has taken me this long to get my lathe home. Here it is in my shed.


DSCN0298 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

Fiddling around with it before I got it wired in I manage to wind a square headed crew down too far!

DSCN0292 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

The square just went in flush with the top of the saddle.


DSCN0297 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

I manage to pull it up again but could not engage the screw with what ever it engaged with before I carelessly lost it!!

I dont know what the screw did anyway! Please cane some one enlighten me?

The machine does not have a plate giving serial numbers but the number is stamped on the cross slide.

DSCN0299 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

The machine is wired with three phases and a neutral which rather fooled my inverter but eventually we got it working by wiring the neutral from the machine to the neutral on the incoming single phase supply.
Now I have got a problem with arcing on the switch gear so I guess I will have to dismantle them and clean the contacts.

I also need to get a chuck backplate which is DIN 800 M45.

The machine, apart from its little niggles, looks and feels every bit as good as my expectations have been before I took delivery.

I have got a fair number of collets which strangely are not marked with a size however thats not the end of the world.

I do hope some one can tell me what I have done with the square headed screw and that I wont have to strip the apron down to get it back to where it should be!!
 
What's the reason for the large overhang on the spindle/chuck? Just curious.

Phil:)

Here you can find some pictures of the Leinen I recently did. The collets have a 25 mm body and M23 thread and can be easily confused for Smart & Brown units which are pretty close in size but will not fit. I've only got a travelling steady with it, will post pictures of it when I'm back home in two weeks.
https://picasaweb.google.com/jos5414/LeinenLZ4S?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Jos
 
Hi Phil,
Its just a test bar that I put in the collet to check out its accuracy. It ran at .001" T.I.R. all the way along the test bar. I had hoped for better but I have only checked one collet and I havn't applied the indicator to the inside of the collet holder yet.
 
If you run a motor by VFD the VFD should be switched on and off, not the secondary fo the VFD. That may explain the arcing.
There is no neutral line needed with a three phase motor, make sure it is not just grounded to the machine itself, aka. ground. Ground and neutral is not the same, at least not in a modern electricity network. Talk to a electrician about it.

Cheers,
Johann
 
VFD and 3-speed motor?

Hello mate, sounds like you have problems like I had...

I had a look on the lathes.co.uk Leinen page, it says the LZ4s has a 3-speed motor, possibly the Big Lever rising from the headstock end cabinet is the selector for this?

IF SO *DON'T* switch it with the VFD supplying power to the motor, you'll kill the VFD and probably damage the drum speed switch and contactors! Bear in mind that the electrical gear is probably close to 50 years old and *irreplaceable*, like that on a Holbrook for example...

The Holbrook I have has an interlock switch to drop out a contactor while switching speeds, your LZ4S may well have one too to prevent switching speeds with volts on the drum switch - this can be used to disable the VFD output instead, as you *DON'T* want the original contactors between the VFD and the motor! The Leinen switchgear should be hooked up to the control inputs of the VFD and pretty much all except the 3-speed drum switch and the interlock and start-stop switches will probably have to go (unless retained purely for decorative reasons ;) )

If you'd care for more info, drop me a PM on here (or suss out my email, much the same as my username here, at hotmail dot com) and I can email you a schematic of how I got my Holbrook working with the 3-speed motor and a VFD, there seem to be a lot of similarities - complicated though, as I've been of the Electrical persuasion since I left school :)

Dave H.
 
Thanks guys, I'm on the case. Being one who regards electricity as voodo magic I don't have the jargon. Presumably VDF is the magic box that produces 3 phase at 400volts.

I have spoken to the chap at Drives Direct who is very patient and helpful with an electrical numpty like me.

I now understand in plain English why the single phase neutral is different to the neutral that would go along with the 3 phase that is magically produced by the Drives Direct box.

It seems that what I have to do is make sure the 3 phase only goes to the motor. I then have to drive the single phase bits with a separate supply from the domestic plug hole in the wall. As far as I can make out the only job single phase does is hold the contact solenoids in place or something like that.

I am getting a real sparks to do that for me!

As we say around here " nothing can possibly go wrong" !!!!!!!!!!
 
Yup, VFD = Variable Frequency Drive, magics 3-phase from one-phase, and lets you vary the motor speed (within limits!). That's assuming it's not a rotary convertor (bigger box with a motor of its own, sits there droning away all the time).

As you say, the VFD should connect to the motor *only* - but I'd suspect that to get 3 speeds from the motor (as otherwise you'll only have a 4-speed lathe) it switches the windings about - this switch would have to be between VFD and motor!

Be warned that very few sparkies are clued up about VFDs, let alone VFDs connected to 3-speed motors - if you say "pole-switching motor" (which is what the Leinen has) and his eyes glaze over, look for another sparky!

Dave H.
 
Hello Phil,
I've been wondering about the overhang myself. It looks like it's stock. I've seen other examples with the same spindle length but also similar models with a shorter design.
 
Hi Phil,
Mine does not overhang as much.


Leinen chuck_001 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

It could be something to do with the backplate and the chuck not being compatible. Here is a sketch of my backplate. Sorry about the state of it it is from my notebookmand was never intended for publication.


backplate 001 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

Notice the 54mm diameter spigot, as far as I can make out this is too large for most of the 5 inch chucks I have looked at . It has to be there to accommodate the threaded end of the nose piece.

In my search I put this note on another website.

"My new to me Leinen LZ4S lathe haqs a DIN 800 M45 nose spindle. I need to get a new 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck for it. The backing plate needs to be deeper than most of the backing plates that are available. I needs to be at least 50 mm from front to back.

There is a Rohm Unfinished Adapter Plate that will do the job. It has a reference number 206652 to suit a 160mm chuck.

I am showing a picture of the spindle nose for information.

Where do I find either a machined back plate or an unmachined one??"


DSCN0301 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

I have found Rotagrip who are sending one to me but I have not yet received it. I intend to fit a new chuck so will keep ypu posted on here.

Is it possible you could help on my question about the square headed screw, like what is it for and how come I managed ( careful ) to loose it?

DSCN0292 by Anzaniste, on Flickr

I hope the above has been of some use.
ttfn
Andy
 
Hi Anzaniste,

The cheese head and hex M8 screws are there to hold the travelling steady.
Nice looking lathe!

Wim
 

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