Hi guys,
I have red all yours post about caz lathes.. very cool!
I love Cazeneuve hbx 360, and now, I have bought it.
But it has some little problem, I have to change all bearing of carriage and change water pomp because the original is broken.
I have disassembled carriage, and I have found inside it a little of rust.
Now, I have cleaned it, but I don't understand how the part in section "e" page 28 of user manual works. It look like a clutch with some side on his circonference for a lever. I have thought then the disks of "clutch" has to rotate regardless one to one, but all is blocket.
I ask you some advices...
Congratulations on your find! I hope you get it all sorted out.
The stack of discs in projection "e" on page 28 is not a clutch, but a set of discs with slots, they are all fixed to the shaft they are on. The six discs have 1,2,4,6,10 and 14 notches respectively. A catch with a finger engages the slots, and is moveable sideways by pulling or pushing the rod with letters on the stem. When the finger engages a slot the big wormgear engaged with the leadscrew is locked, and the saddle is driven by the leadscrew pitch. It is all described on page 21.
Thank you Ole!!
All is clear, now!
I will make it running as soon as possible...
I have broken the rod with letter... AGGGRRR!!! I have to order it....
It looks as you might have a leak in the variator hydraulics. This is common, and can rather easily be fixed by changing the seals, I can tell you how.
Another common fault is leaking seals in the cover tubes over the leadscrew. The oil level in the apron depends on these seals, so if they leak a lot they need to be replaced.
Yes Ole, I have a leak in the variator... If you could say me how change the seals, I will be very grateful to you.
And... I have to change all seals of cover tubes...
Thank you
Alb!
I realized I have lost some hi-res scans from the manual, I will get new copies later tonight. Until then:
There are 3 seals to replace,one in the upper and two in the lower cylinder. You might just as well order them now, along with seals for the covertubes. If the belt is frayed or delaminated you need a new one.
Do you have a slide hammer?
You need one.
Remove all hoses and the control linkage to the lower cylinder. Withdraw the valve body and rod. Mark the position of the spindle extension tube, as this determines spindle bearing preload. Remove the serrated lockwashers and the spindle extension tube. Remove the belt. Remove the little nut on the upper collector box.
Tell me about your progress and skill level. Do you need me to be more or less detailed?
Thank you Ole! Your guide is preciuous!!
I have done your tutorial!
I have removed valve of bottom variator, and I have removed all in your giude but upper box would not come out... I can rotate it but I can not remove it... it seems locked.
You can try with the gear puller, but be careful! The threaded part where the nut came off is very thin, M6? You may try to protect it with a long nut or maybe two nuts on top of each other, so the extractor does not ride on the end of the spindle.
I used a slidehammer like the one in the picture, it was not more than 15 euros at an auto tool shop. Take out the screw from the gear puller, connect the slidehammer instead with a bolt, fasten the claws around the housing and hammer it off. Take care so it does not drop too far, it is a thinwalled aluminium casting.
Ole
Alb:
Here are the scans I promised:
When you have pulled off the collector box, remove the big nut, and the outer sheave half may be removed from its cone with a puller fastened to the threaded holes. Don't pull on the rim of the sheave, it will distort!Replace the seal, and polish the inside of the cylinder if there is rust or wear.
On the lower unit the nut should be readily visible when you have withdawn the valve cover and stem. Remove the nut and withdraw the cylinder.
You now need to pull out the pin running in the slot inside the cylider, connecting the outer sheave and valve slide. The pin has a thread (M4?) to facilitate removal. Fasten the connector for the slide hammer to the pin with a (strong) M4 screw, and pull the pin just enough to enable removal of the sheave. Replace seals as on the upper unit, and reassemble. Adjust the linkage and the upper sheave brake according to instructions in manual. Good luck!
A couple of Qs Ole.... what did you replace your seals with? factory supplied seals or from another source? and lastly did the lathe get any quieter when they were replaced? Ive yet to get around to replacing mine, but im contemplating using a servo motor instead.
Many thanks.
No, the noise stays the same, I guess. (I have only run it for some seconds with the old seals, as oil was pouring out.) I found off- the shelf polyurethane hydraulic piston seals that fit, but it was a long search. I paid around £ 25 each. Ordering from the factory would have been easier.
If you are considering changing to a VFD motor you should look at JHOLLAND1's posts about his conversion. There is far more work involved than changing the 3 seals. With the variator working in the original configuration the HBX has excellent ergonomy and is a joy to use, maybe except the noise. My supplier says that current polyurethane seals are much more durable than the ones they made in the 70-ies, and should last another 40 years.
Thank you Ole!!
I have done it!
I have removed both of variators, and I have to order new seals, now!
I'm very grateful to you for your advices!
Thank you!
Hello Ole, I want to thank you for this post. Your very well detailed description has given me more confidence to tackle this same job on my hby590. Things are slowing down and I've been meaning to do this job for some time now.
I'm here as I got my HBX360 last Saturday. the previous owner changed the oil and the oil-filter. He attended me about the massive oil leak at the lower pulley area.
a member of this forum (yoyo) close to my residence sended me the manual posted by Ole Steen.
reading the posts, I think I'll replace all the seals of the variators and the tubes.
So, probably I'll need you guys soon for advise.
Kev!
If you are considering changing to a VFD motor you should look at JHOLLAND1's posts about his conversion. There is far more work involved than changing the 3 seals. With the variator working in the original configuration the HBX has excellent ergonomy and is a joy to use, maybe except the noise.
One thing I've always wondered about HBX lathes :
The leaks seem to be a common problem. How is it that nobody ever came out with a mechanical alternative for the hydraulic actuator ?
It would probably be pretty easy to actuate the expanding pulley with a mechanical device such as a modified speed reducer or something similar.
That way, it may be possible to get rid of the hydraulic pump and to replace it with a smaller and quieter unit for the sole headstock lubrication (I seem to recall most of the noise is generated by the hydraulic pump ?).
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, I too will be doing the same in the future.
Originally Posted by ole.steen
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