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Schaublin 102VM Lathe and 13 mill restoration project

Harkema

Plastic
Joined
Jun 26, 2017
Hi Guys,

Two weeks ago, I bought a Schaublin 102VM Lathe and a Schaublin 13 mill. Very happy about that because it’s a nice combination of quality machines. Both machines need restoration work and I will document the process on this forum and on youtube. It’s nice to learn from each other (and I don’t have a lot of Lathe/Mill restoration experience so learning from mistakes will be part of it, so let’s share these so others can learn from it as well).

The Lathe is running but the mill is taken completely apart by the last owner. I hope all the parts are there… The plan is to first get the lathe running with some new wiring and oil. After that I will start with the restoration of the mill.

As this is also my first post here I will shortly introduce myself. I live in the Netherlands (Groningen) and have been working with metal since I was a little kid. My grandfather was a blacksmith and my father a machinist. I worked for 6 years as an instrumentation specialist in the Dutch Aerospace Institute (NLR - DNW). But then I had a ‘small’ change of plan and now a work as a teacher in a university of sport education. The mechanical work has become more of a hobby but I plan to spend around 3 days a week working as a teacher and two days for metal work (also blacksmithing).

Bart Harkema

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Hi Harkem,

I checked your vids. Nice catch. Especially the 102VM with the dividing attachment.
I live in Switzerland and I'm restoring an old Schaublin 102-80.
You asked about how to remove the paint.
I tried all methods and all 3 methods have there advantage and disadvantage.

Chemical paint remover:
I use this one here (GERMAN):
RUCO - Verdunner, Losemittel, Reiniger - RUCO Abbeizer Forte
Works perfectly but you have to put a think layer on it. Then pack your item in a bag for 1 or 2 hours.
with nitro thinner and a rag you can clean the item. Be aware that the paint remover does not remove the body filler.
The body filler has to be remove mechanical, sand blasting or scraping

Mechanical
Since my space is very limited, I use the following sandblaster outside:
http://www.jwlaircontrol.com/sodablaster.asp?id=107785
You can also use it with fine sand.

For large areas, like the iron cast body of the 102er, I use either a metal scraper or a large CBS disc like those here:
1 Stuck Reinigungsscheiben CBS Scheibe 125mm Nylon Reinigungsscheibe Lila | eBay

For the new painting I use the following setup with MIPA and Rucco Productsproducts:
1.) Apply MIPA 2k EP Filler EP-100
2.) Apply Body filler MIPA 2k EP E90
3.) Sanding
4.) Apply RUCOPLAST 2K
5.) Sanding
6.) Apply RUCOPUR 3000 2k in the correct color.

I let recreate the original color for my 1955 machine. Unfortunatel there is neither a RAL code nor a NCs code for this color.


One thing about your measuring in your second video.
This was nonsense and totally useless.
Follow the measuring procedure of the Schaublin protocols from the real old Schaublin catalogs. Check the 1948 and older ones.


I case your going to repaint your 102VM, checkout this blog:
http://ms-creativity-forum.forumpro...lin-102-vm-drehmaschine-restauration-t31.html

And have you changed the oil of the 1:5 Gear in the head stock?
I can recommend that. It would be good the check the whole head stock.

Best regards
Juergen
 
Why would you need to remove the paint
If the original paint is still on it that is very good quality
Just leave it on Repare the damages with bondo Sand it and repaint it

Peter
 
Hi Harkem,

I checked your vids. Nice catch. Especially the 102VM with the dividing attachment.
I live in Switzerland and I'm restoring an old Schaublin 102-80.
You asked about how to remove the paint.
I tried all methods and all 3 methods have there advantage and disadvantage.

Chemical paint remover:
I use this one here (GERMAN):
RUCO - Verdunner, Losemittel, Reiniger - RUCO Abbeizer Forte
Works perfectly but you have to put a think layer on it. Then pack your item in a bag for 1 or 2 hours.
with nitro thinner and a rag you can clean the item. Be aware that the paint remover does not remove the body filler.
The body filler has to be remove mechanical, sand blasting or scraping

Mechanical
Since my space is very limited, I use the following sandblaster outside:
http://www.jwlaircontrol.com/sodablaster.asp?id=107785
You can also use it with fine sand.

For large areas, like the iron cast body of the 102er, I use either a metal scraper or a large CBS disc like those here:
1 Stuck Reinigungsscheiben CBS Scheibe 125mm Nylon Reinigungsscheibe Lila | eBay

For the new painting I use the following setup with MIPA and Rucco Productsproducts:
1.) Apply MIPA 2k EP Filler EP-100
2.) Apply Body filler MIPA 2k EP E90
3.) Sanding
4.) Apply RUCOPLAST 2K
5.) Sanding
6.) Apply RUCOPUR 3000 2k in the correct color.

I let recreate the original color for my 1955 machine. Unfortunatel there is neither a RAL code nor a NCs code for this color.


One thing about your measuring in your second video.
This was nonsense and totally useless.
Follow the measuring procedure of the Schaublin protocols from the real old Schaublin catalogs. Check the 1948 and older ones.


I case your going to repaint your 102VM, checkout this blog:
Schaublin 12 VM Drehmaschine - restauration • ms-creativity Technik Forum

And have you changed the oil of the 1:5 Gear in the head stock?
I can recommend that. It would be good the check the whole head stock.

Best regards
Juergen

Thanks Juergen for your advice. For the mill I will try some different paint removal ways and see what works best. I'll try leave the body filler on there if it is in good condition.

About the measurement. You are correct that it has little use for measuring the machine. But for me it was useful because at the first spin of the lathe is saw there was movement (wobble) in the head. I wanted to see if this only in the bearing ring or also in the head. If the wobble was also on the head i had some major problems.

About the oil, i did not change it yet but already have some oil in de workshop to replace it.

What is your advice? Drain the oil and refill. Or drain it and flush it with gasoline (or other) to clean it and then refill?
 
Thanks Juergen and Peter for your advice.

For the mill I will try some different paint removal ways and see what works best. I'll try leave the body filler on there if it is in good condition.

About the measurement. You are correct that it has little use for measuring the machine. But for me it was useful because at the first spin of the lathe is saw there was movement (wobble) in the head. I wanted to see if this only in the bearing ring or also in the head. If the wobble was also on the head i had some major problems.

About the oil, i did not change it yet but already have some oil in de workshop to replace it.

What is your advice? Drain the oil and refill. Or drain it and flush it with gasoline (or other) to clean it and then refill?
 
In recent days, I had some time for work on Schaublin machines again.

First of all, I did an oil change from the lathe and replaced the top slider: Schaublin 1�2VM - 13 restoration part 3: Oil Change Lathe - YouTube

I also bought 2K polyurethane paint for the mill (Ral 7031 en 7035) and tested this on a metal toolbox. This was only the primer. Rolling is going well but I find it hard to get it smooth. Maybe I'll go for spray paint on the machine.
 
Hi Harkema

Thanks for posting your purchases. The 102VM looks very clean :D

I went to Dresden for one of mine in the early 90's and it was nothing like that :eek:

As Peter says though ... if the paint is that good why change it? ... and I'd start by spraying not rollering.

Just my two pennies worth

John :typing::cheers:
 
That is a nice pair of machines! I wouldn't worry about paint but that is just me.

I looked at getting a 102VM but ended up with two lathes to go with my Schaublin 13. (a 102 and 135) Really only getting a 102vm makes more sense in many ways. If you have any question about parts on the 13 mill etc let me know. I have the machine in my shop and the original manual with part drawings etc for the 13.

Luke
Workshop
 








 
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