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Schaublin 70 headstock bearing removal

Mcgyver

Diamond
Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Location
Toronto
For Schaublin 70's with roller element bearings, the manual recommends cleaning and re-lubing the headstock bearings periodically (every 5 years) and gives instruction on disassembly.

Removal of spindle shaft is quite easy following their detailed directions, the last of which is "then remove the bearings" As the shaft came its not clear to me how to do so.

Thanks

Here's the spindle - anyone know how to remove the bearings?

OuegAeB.jpg


On the inboard side, the outer race is left in the headstock. Does this come out (for cleaning, as part the PM?

GnZpXcK.jpg


Outboard, how is this bearing removed? as its against a shoulder, there is no way to press on it from the other side except on the inner race

CEOUXid.jpg
 
Last edited:
If you *really* had to remove that inner race, TIG a bead around the interior. It will drop right out when the weld cools.

Don't do that.

If that were my machine I'd give the rollers a quick spray with solvent and then re-grease with the recommended type of
grease. Use less than you think you need.

Re-assemble and go.

Looks to me like removal of the cage involves slipping a specialized bearing wrench over the spindle, undoing the setscrew, and
then backing the collar off. But that's only a SWAG.

Jim
 
I just stumbled on to this thread and thought I'd share my limited and non-expert experience. I bought a 70 that had ruined ball bearings (left end of spindle) that I replaced with a duplex pair of ABEC 7 Fafnir bearings. I also couldn't see any way to remove the old bearings without pushing on the inner race. So I did. And they pressed right out with light pressure.

I can't say for sure that your experience will be the same, but I recommend trying it. Just be sure you push straight and with light pressure. 200# won't hurt those bearings at all. If they don't come out, then back to square one. But don't force them, they are really expensive!
 
I'm of the camp "If it ain't broke don't fix it"
But pulling the spindle apart to the point you have it now is enough for you to examine the bearings closely and give them a good rinse in solvent then reinstall with the proper lubricant.
The outboard bearing could be cleaned without removal using spray solvent from the inside of the housing.
Check the residue for any metallic fines.
Unless the spindle was vibrating or noisy AND you had a replacement set of bearings in hand, I wouldn't go any further.
 
I haven't done anything since the post, waiting for it to percolate up to top of the project list and I confes lost track of this thread - thanks for response. I originally took it apart as the manual I had referred to disassembly, washing and re lubricating every five years. Once I got it apart it was obvious it wasn't the same bearing arrangement as the manual referred to. I agree with the suggestion of rinsing inspecting and re greasing without removal of the outboard bearings and and same with the inboard mounted on the spindle.
 
I haven't done anything since the post, waiting for it to percolate up to top of the project list .

PS.....just so you don't think I was dogging it :D......i've finished this underbench drive unit....T slot tensioning adjustment in both directions toggle lock that loosens both belts

ZUoAQiQ.jpg
 
Guessing the "square" parts are the ones you fabricated?

If so, one impressive job!



thank you. Purchased items are fasteners, motor, bearings (self aligning), black plastic knob and belt. Sheaves I made, copied from a Schaublin overhead drive I have. Belt is diy spliced from an auto timing belt, but I think I;ll replace it with a flat urethane belt.

Also seen on the motor is a balancing hub. This was my first experiment with making them. There is more vibration than I'd like, but I think most is coming from the belt. As a reinforced belt there is no stretch so the tiny dimensions change over my splice is I think the cause of vibration. With that addressed, I'll use an acelerometer and spectrum analyzer and just how of a difference of the balancing hubs will make. Plan is one on the motor to counter act any imbalance of the sheave and one on each end of the jack shaft
 
its not, each has two diameters/positions

Right, motor pulley seems to have large sheave inboard, small sheave outboard.
Same with countershaft pulley, large inboard, small outboard. Belt in the photo
is large motor, to small countershaft. But how do you select small motor, large countershaft?
Belt would be at quite an angle.
 
Right, motor pulley seems to have large sheave inboard, small sheave outboard.

its a bit of an optical thing.....motor small sheave is definitely inboard. The outboard thing is a balancing hub I made and was trying in that position at the time of the photograph
 
I just stumbled on to this thread and thought I'd share my limited and non-expert experience. I bought a 70 that had ruined ball bearings (left end of spindle) that I replaced with a duplex pair of ABEC 7 Fafnir bearings. I also couldn't see any way to remove the old bearings without pushing on the inner race. So I did. And they pressed right out with light pressure.

I can't say for sure that your experience will be the same, but I recommend trying it. Just be sure you push straight and with light pressure. 200# won't hurt those bearings at all. If they don't come out, then back to square one. But don't force them, they are really expensive!




I ended up doing the same....I put a wood screw driver handle to the inner race and tapped them out. You can press them back almost all way by hand so i'm thinking they are just a very well done location fit.

Having done so, I'm, now really confused. I was expecting something like angular contact arrange in tandem set up to pull the spindle into the headstock race. Instead I have what look like two deep groove ball bearings with a spacer between the inner race and nothing on the outer.'

Does this look right? Do you remember the bearing arrangement? Any chance anyone would have the page from the manual for this headstock showing what should be there?

thanks

H5hyQwl.jpg


p4wrX3S.jpg
 
Answering my own questions....found a manual. It looks like that bearing arrangement is as intended, but it I don't get it. When I first put it together there was a lot of endplay and didn't feel smooth making me think something was wrong...will try again

cpFLmY7.jpg
 
Seems to be identical to the Schaublin 102 setup.

I'ts indeed normal that there is only a spacer on the inner race.
The preload is set by the coverplate 70-30.003 pushing the outer races together.
You can increase the preload by machining the mounting surface of the cover plate
or by installing a wider spacer.
To decrease the preload you'll have to machining the surface of the cover plate that
contacts the bearing outer races or machine the inner race spacer.

Refer to the 102 manual which describes the adjustment:
Schaublin 102 Service Instructions

When you want to upgrade to AC bearings you could mount a pair of 7005 bearings (matched
pair or bearings for universal matching) Face to Face and use a spacer between the bearing
inner race and the spindle nut and one spacer between the outer race and the cover plate.
These spacers don't need to be of exact size as they only locate the bearings in the housing.
However if you this the oiling hole will be covered and you'll have to use grease instead
like on the newer type headstocks.
 








 
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