Weiler LZ 330

Hi

I have an old and nice, but well used LZ 330. It is quite prescice and functional , but there are a few things I am not sure about.
I am new to the forums. I have some other old machinery (Nikolas Correa Mill/Kondia Powermill, Arboga drillpress) in my workshop so I guess taking part of the community in here to share knowledge makes great sense:-)

I have 3 questions for the knowledgeable people out there:

1. The spindle speed selector knob and lever on the lever left is not fully engaging the proper gears... I dont like the idea of taking it apart and check. However if I play around with it I most of the times manage to get a descent spindle speed for the work at hand.
Tips?

2. On the bed there is an adjustable stop for the longitudal movement. It also appears to me that there is a button/swith on the carriage that looks like it could be a feed stop button coming into action when it hits the adjustable stop on the bed...

It seems stuck and I cant find a way to make it operational. Does anyone know if there was ever such a auto feed stop function on these machines?
And is this stop just for

3.
Lastly, does anyone do lots of threadcutting on these machines? There is no dial. I guess whn cutting I need to keep it enganged and run it forward and backward without dissengage/loose thread pattern?? This way is a little awkard when cutting thread up to a flange for example as the machine takes a while to come to a stop... So the feed continues with the intertia of the machine so to speak. It would be nice to be able to disengage, go back and start on the next cut..? I have not donw much thread cutting so bear with me if there is something I did not understand here:-)


best regards
Mats Andersen
Norway

Mats

The LZ330 is a wonderful machine! I truly appreciate the one I have.

Regarding the carriage stop, The "button" on the headstock side of the apron is an adjuster for a spring release setting. No contact with a stop is required at the "button. The feed "clutch" mechanism is entirely load related. The "button" merely sets the resistance needed to make the release. The standard bed way clamping carriage stop is all that is required. This works as well for the cross slide, if you have a stop for that motion. Also, the release works perfectly while feeding out!.

Turn the "button" head CCW until there is no clamp up of the internal mechanism, and the feed kick out will occur at quite low feed pressures

The gear box spindle speed selection is a bit unusual. There have been several threads on the topic here at PM. Do a search on the Weiler Matador/Condor/ LZ330. Important is to understand the gear selection dial is a PRE-SELECTOR. With the lever doing the actual gear shifting with a quick movement back and return just as the spindle is slowing after switching off the electrical power via the apron lever. This slow motion of the spindle is required to do the shifting, and can be simulated just by turning the chuck/spindle by hand. The speed knob can be moved to the next desired spindle speed at any time with the spindle turning under power or not. Just be aware that you MAY NOT change spindle speeds when the spindle is stationary. The gearbox internal gears will clash, bump and bind, with the symptoms of improper engagement. DON'T DO THAT!

Regarding threading. Lot's of ways to skin a cat. I suggest powering the lathe with a VFD and set the braking to bring the spindle to a rapid stop.
Barring that, get or make a threading dial.

ENJOY! The LZ330 is a very capable machine!

Hei

I have a condor and its a great machine!

I have the dial for my machine and i guess it is the same solution on your machine. The dial was an accessory.

Making one should be easy.

Where in Norway do you live?

I live in Fetsund.

Ola

Hi and thanks for the very useful tips, I already become better at finding the right spindle speed. Allthoug its a little trickty and takes some practice and understanding.

Hmm about the feed stop.. I attach a photo of what I think you refer to as the button. There is one of these on each side, but neither can be moved or turned... They seem awefully stuck. there has to be something I dont get here. Perhap my machine dont have this feature??

Please see photo?

Hei Ola, I live in Bergen:-) Do you have a dial laying a round? hehe

Mats

Hello there Mats,

If you have a metric leadscrew you can thread a lot of metric pitches without a threading dial. If the pitch of the leadscrew divided by the wanted pitch is a whole number, you can disengage.
0,2 0,25 0,3 0,5 0,6 0,75 1,0 1,2 1,5 2,0 3,0 and 6,0 should all be ok without a dial on a 6mm leadscrew

Go try it!

The button in your pic is probably the same as on my matador. It doesnt do anything but being a contact point.
Clutch is below that on my machine, see pics.

interesting and thank you very much:-).. the pic is a little low res but is it that brass feature/screw underneath the contact point there? I dont have it on mine... urk. I cant see any other way where it could disengage against the adjsutable travel stop..

I suppose it is a metric leadscrew, I will measure it. Hmm That sounds to good to be true that when re engaging it will hit the thread pattern. I need to try it as you say. :-)
So I use the appropriate 1-13 and A/B or C setting for the feed speed that gives the wanted pitch?

Mats Andersen said:

interesting and thank you very much:-).. the pic is a little low res but is it that brass feature/screw underneath the contact point there? I dont have it on mine... urk. I cant see any other way where it could disengage against the adjsutable travel stop..

I suppose it is a metric leadscrew, I will measure it. Hmm That sounds to good to be true that when re engaging it will hit the thread pattern. I need to try it as you say. :-)
So I use the appropriate 1-13 and A/B or C setting for the feed speed that gives the wanted pitch?

Click to expand...

The feed clutch/stop mechanism does not require any particular contact point. ANY resistance will be sufficient. Heck, you can trip out the feed lever with hand pressure if you have the clutch spring knob backed all the way out. There is no "plunger", or external movement. Just the feed lever "popping" out of engagement.

With practice, the preselect gear box system works very well.

allright I just gotta find the screw/knob to adjust this clutch spring setting.. If it at all has one.

Mats

Mats Andersen said:

allright I just gotta find the screw/knob to adjust this clutch spring setting.. If it at all has one.

Mats

Click to expand...

Mats

LOOK at the photo in post #6 above. About in the center of the photo is a screw knob. That's the clutch kick out adjustment. Righty tighty-lefty loosey.

;-)

Ok please bear with me, hehe:-)
In post nr6 - photo nr 2/2, just where the dust/debris viper goes I have nothing that looks like a knob or screw, only the deadstop that touch the adjustable carriage stop and two threaded holes for the screws that hold the dust seal in place.

In photo nr 1/2, in the centre there is another feature, if this is the one you mean CaIG, then I have to admit I thought this had nothing to do with it.. Green arrow in photo.


SMats

Yes, green arrow is where it's at.

sweet! I will go down to workshop tomorrow and check it out! thanks guys:-)

Mats

Of course it worked perfectly... ! thanks

Plusminus - thread pitch is actually 6.35mm or 1/4"...
I will try to track down a dial or find a way to make it:-)

Mats

About the spindle speeds that are hard to find

Probably your round dial rotates freely And it should have clear positions
The coarse is a week spring in the gearbox The preselecter dail rotates a shaft inside the gearbox That shaft has a disc with indents A springloaded steel ball corresponds with those indents That way you feel every position of the shaft
With a week spring you can set the speedselector in between speeds

That spring is quit small About 4-5mm and 15 -20mm long
Try to find a spring with a bit thicker wire as the original
The spring is accessable by removing the sidepanels of the gearbox
In these links you find more info
peter from holland

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...aziano-mori-seiki-lathes/weiler-lz330-293591/
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/schaublin-cazeneuve-weiler-graziano-mori-seiki-lathes/weiler-pre-select-gearbox-178989/

youre right, my problem is excactly like described in tht thread.. THanks for making me aware of this.

In the shaft of the speed dial is the spring and ball located? I will try to remove sidepanels and see. Can everyting stay assembled on the machine or does the whole gearbox need to come off?
Very interesting this. THere are some speeds that I cant manage to engange at all not matter how I try it. but this broken spring does not help...:-)
Perhaps some speeds are unavailable due to broken gears?

Mats

The covers can be taken off without problems
I wwould take the gearbox out
Then you can take off the lit to inspect the inners
To get the lit back on is not that hard

Peter from holland

allright! ill give it a go:-)

thanks very much


Mats

feed stop clutch

Plusminus said:

Yes, green arrow is where it's at.

Click to expand...

Hi. LZ330 owner here.
So you're saying, that adjustment here can prevent a serious crash. I should try looking for spring tension and playing around with that?

I need to get a manual from somewhere!

As for threading I think it is generally just done with the screw engaged all the time (stop, retract the tool then run the machine in reverse, repeat) with a metic lathe a threading indicator that works with all pitches requires gears and other complications. My schaublin and Leinen lathes were designed without indicators and they are high end metric machines.
Luke

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