Who do you use for Yaskawa Inverter Repairs?

Guest · May 30, 2017

For Fanuc I always use T.I.E. The place I trusted for non-Fanuc items went out of business. I have a Yaskawa VS-606PC3 spindle inverter I believe needs repair. I want a place that can evaluate and repair it. Forget recommending Radwell as I had a bad experience with them, thanks in advance.

Jhn3:16 · May 30, 2017

I have used TigerTek Industrial Services several times for Yaskawa parts and been very satisfied. They are located in North Carolina...
Brandon

Bobw · May 30, 2017

My experience with Yaskawa (different drives than you have)..

Documentation on them is readily available, parts are readily available.
Tech support is readily available.

I had a drive go tits up... Made a phone call, they verified my suspicions.
$350 board later and I was back up and running.

I'd search for the documentation on your drive, and then I'd make a phone call, it
might be something you can swap out right quick, and not something that needs to
be sent out and rebuilt.

They aren't like the mysterious black box of a Baldor..

** My drives aren't ancient and only a few years out of production, and they apparently made
a TON of them from 1/3hp to 200hp, and they were all pretty much the same as far
as the brains were concerned.

Guest · May 30, 2017

Jhn3:16 said:
I have used TigerTek Industrial Services several times for Yaskawa parts and been very satisfied. They are located in North Carolina...
Brandon

I have used them for a couple Fanuc motor repairs, I didn't know they worked on Yaskawa items.

Guest · May 30, 2017

Bobw said:
it
might be something you can swap out right quick, and not something that needs to
be sent out and rebuilt.

Thanks, but you have not seen me with a soldering iron. I need multiple tries to solder a 16 gauge wire to a terminal on a 15 amp toggle switch. I use a whole spool of solder to sweat a couple 3/4 copper pipes together. I should not ever think of soldering on an obsolete board. My welding skills are similar, if it isn't a job you can use a 3/16+ diameter stick on an arc welder with you are going to get a mess.

Bobw · May 30, 2017

Dualkit said:
Thanks, but you have not seen me with a soldering iron. I need multiple tries to solder a 16 gauge wire to a terminal on a 15 amp toggle switch. I use a whole spool of solder to sweat a couple 3/4 copper pipes together. I should not ever think of soldering on an obsolete board. My welding skills are similar, if it isn't a job you can use a 3/16+ diameter stick on an arc welder with you are going to get a mess.

NOT LIKE THAT!! Its like pulling out a board and slapping in a new one... Like when a driver board
goes down on your machine, you don't call up the rigger and send the machine off, you pull out the driver
board and replace it, that's what the inside of the Yaskawas (at least mine) is like... Don't
even have to take the drive out, just pop the cover off. Less than 10 minutes with a screwdriver
to swap the board out.

I've got F7's and yours is a V7 I believe and looks to be fairly similar. This page says there is
limited parts and support for the V7's... Support - Yaskawa

I'm just saying that Yaskawa is pretty darn friendly as to the inner workings of their drives, unlike
some others... Might be worth digging into some documentation and making some phone calls before
you rip her out and send her off.

Zahnrad Kopf · May 30, 2017

After my recent experiences, I call Skyler for ANYTHING ELECTRONIC and simply ask if he has interest in evaluating it. He's honest as the day is long and will tell you flat out of he can or cannot. Can't hurt to ask.

Member name is BugRobotics. And my recent thread is here - http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...experience-endorsement-recommendation-335143/

Good luck.

Guest · May 30, 2017

Bobw said:
NOT LIKE THAT!! Its like pulling out a board and slapping in a new one... Like when a driver board
goes down on your machine, you don't call up the rigger and send the machine off, you pull out the driver
board and replace it, that's what the inside of the Yaskawas (at least mine) is like... Don't
even have to take the drive out, just pop the cover off. Less than 10 minutes with a screwdriver
to swap the board out.

I've got F7's and yours is a V7 I believe and looks to be fairly similar. This page says there is
limited parts and support for the V7's... Support - Yaskawa

I'm just saying that Yaskawa is pretty darn friendly as to the inner workings of their drives, unlike
some others... Might be worth digging into some documentation and making some phone calls before
you rip her out and send her off.

I don't think I can identify it without ripping it out. My electrical diagram in the Star book calls it CIMR-PCA23P7N1. The page you linked me to doesn't show similar numbers and clicking on the pictures it does not look like the V7. It does not have the digital operator, only the two led lights it is also a puny 3.7 Kw.

Bobw · May 30, 2017

Dualkit said:
I don't think I can identify it without ripping it out. My electrical diagram in the Star book calls it CIMR-PCA23P7N1. The page you linked me to doesn't show similar numbers and clicking on the pictures it does not look like the V7. It does not have the digital operator, only the two led lights it is also a puny 3.7 Kw.

Screw it.. Exchange for $580..

http://www.precisiondrives.com/Inverter-General-Purpose--Yaskawa/CIMR-PCA23P7

Jhn3:16 · May 30, 2017

Dualkit said:
I have used them for a couple Fanuc motor repairs, I didn't know they worked on Yaskawa items.

Anytime I have run across Yaskawa parts they have been in older equipment (1994 Leblond Makino) CNC Tech buddy of mine recommended them and they have always been very nice to work with!

Guest · May 30, 2017

Bobw said:
Screw it.. Exchange for $580..

http://www.precisiondrives.com/Inverter-General-Purpose--Yaskawa/CIMR-PCA23P7

I wonder what the N1 on the end of mine means? Possibly no digital operator? Wonder since mine doesn't have a digital operator keypad it doesn't have internal settings and I can just use any exchange and it will work? It just runs a main spindle that is as simple as it gets, no locking, indexing or C-axis, hell the programmable minimum speed is 300 RPM.

ewlsey · May 30, 2017

Precision Zone is very good with Yaskawa.

Bobw · May 30, 2017

Dualkit said:
I wonder what the N1 on the end of mine means? Possibly no digital operator? Wonder since mine doesn't have a digital operator keypad it doesn't have internal settings and I can just use any exchange and it will work? It just runs a main spindle that is as simple as it gets, no locking, indexing or C-axis, hell the programmable minimum speed is 300 RPM.

I have not a clue, but the good news is that it looks like you aren't staring a big giant repair bill in the face.
If its only 3 digits to get a machine back up and running, I consider it a good day.

Guest · May 30, 2017

Bobw said:
I have not a clue, but the good news is that it looks like you aren't staring a big giant repair bill in the face.
If its only 3 digits to get a machine back up and running, I consider it a good day.

Of course if it is just plug and play and replacement doesn't yield a boat load of new alarms to fight through.

Guest · Jun 1, 2017

Jhn3:16 said:
I have used TigerTek Industrial Services several times for Yaskawa parts and been very satisfied. They are located in North Carolina...
Brandon

They said with Yaskawa they don't work on inverters and send them out if one comes in paired to a motor. So they could not help me.

Guest · Jun 1, 2017

Bobw said:
Screw it.. Exchange for $580..

http://www.precisiondrives.com/Inverter-General-Purpose--Yaskawa/CIMR-PCA23P7

I can get a new one from Yaskawa for $506 that would leave me in the same boat of having to configure it.

Bobw · Jun 1, 2017

Dualkit said:
I can get a new one from Yaskawa for $506 that would leave me in the same boat of having to configure it.

Go and dig around the Yaskawa site and see what they have for documentation on the drive...
The documentation they have is pretty good, and they even had a program you could download for
FREE so that you could configure it with your computer instead of standing behind the machine
pushing buttons and looking at a tiny little screen. Pull the keypad off and there is a Cat5
connector back there (is that RJ45 or something stupid like that, phone line on steroids)

It wasn't hard to configure at all.. The one thing you might want to be careful of, at least in my case,
the second drive I bought didn't come with the board to run closed loop (read an encoder), for a mill
without rigid tapping it ran fine.. I did buy the board, it was $100.

Guest · Jun 1, 2017

Bobw said:
Go and dig around the Yaskawa site and see what they have for documentation on the drive...
The documentation they have is pretty good, and they even had a program you could download for
FREE so that you could configure it with your computer instead of standing behind the machine
pushing buttons and looking at a tiny little screen. Pull the keypad off and there is a Cat5
connector back there (is that RJ45 or something stupid like that, phone line on steroids)

It wasn't hard to configure at all.. The one thing you might want to be careful of, at least in my case,
the second drive I bought didn't come with the board to run closed loop (read an encoder), for a mill
without rigid tapping it ran fine.. I did buy the board, it was $100.

My biggest fear is the connections not being the same as the ladder I have is not the greatest and has abbreviations on it that make no sense. I don't think the settings are anything that fancy and my original one doesn't have a digital operator so no way to find out what it has in it. Also the damn thing is about 6" off the ground, I don't do down ups very well. Going to yank the old one off soon a few tests proved it is bad.

Mike Nash · Jun 1, 2017

This is the manual for the drive you have, the A is a Japanese spec. There are 60 parameters, though some won't have been changed from default. You pretty much have to have a JVOP-110 digital operator to read these and setup a new drive to work the same (whether it is a different model or not.) I don't recall if there was ever any software to program these - this drive is from the mid 90s. The plastic cover is a cost saving measure by OEMs, along with keeping you out of the settings. And yes, at least for that model, N1 means no digital operator and Nema1 Enclosure.

Last time someone was looking, the operators were pretty pricey, but someone has some (probably that an OEM pulled) for $19.95 plus $5.95 shipping on ebay.

eBay item number:192161383378 YASKAWA MODEL JVOP-11 DIGITAL OPERATOR KEYPADS - New Old Stock | eBay

Not mine BTW, I never sell anything, anywhere.

What are the symptoms you are having?

Edited to add: Make sure your drive is actually a "PCA" or "PCE" before finding a JVOP-110 operator as the PCU (US version) uses a different digital keypad - JVOP-114.

Guest · Jun 1, 2017

It has a fault display on boot up that won't clear. Per the two LEDs it is either "Inverter output side is grounded" or "Inverter output current exceeds 200% of rated current" (Momentary action).Disconnecting the motor it is hooked to at the inverter didn't clear the alarm so that eliminates the motor or wiring to it as an issue. That indicates a faulty inverter according to Yaskawa. 60 settings, I never thought there would be that many, yikes!
Talking to Yaskawa my model is Japanese.

Who do you use for Yaskawa Inverter Repairs?

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