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| General New General metalworking, machine tool, and woodworking machinery discussions |
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11-07-2009, 02:56 PM
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Diamond
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Beaufort, SC, USA
Posts: 30,325
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DK, you should have posted WARNING-OX-SHIELD THYNE EYES....now you're got him quivering in a pool of fright just looking at all those "driverless" photos....
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11-07-2009, 03:40 PM
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Diamond
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,370
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I dunno....either he tied one on last night, or I insulted him and he's sulking....OR watch me git a lecture when he returns....
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11-07-2009, 03:54 PM
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Stainless
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Abingdon, VA
Posts: 1,129
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Being "Ox-ish", those welded on brackets securing the chains to the platform look a little weak...
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11-07-2009, 04:53 PM
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Diamond
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 4,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cnctoolcat
Being "Ox-ish", those welded on brackets securing the chains to the platform look a little weak...
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I agree and I thought that too.... They are 1/4" plate. Large hole has not-much material surrounding it. But...readily available by the dozens as take off parts from a customer. I actually carefully got up & stood behind the motor on it's pallet, hopped a little too.....that's an extra 220+...??
Heck, maybe I have a future as a design engineer in the Far East working on the latest minimalist designs for Harbor Freight Engine Hoist's and Gantry Crane's?
How do you say 'Pigeon Poop Weld' in Taiwanese ?
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11-07-2009, 03:55 PM
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Hot Rolled
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rugby, Warwickshire. England
Posts: 766
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Sorry, couldn't resist...
I hadn't realised how hard it was for you guys.
Comes of working at a plant that has a 100 long ton crane in one bay, 120 in another bay, 30-50 in most of the others, railway from one end of the factory to another and floor that's smooth enough to tow machine tools on castors behind the FLT
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11-07-2009, 04:04 PM
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Stainless
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
Posts: 1,601
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Believe it or not, wood works well on a smooth concrete floor. I put my VMC in sideways, like it shows in the photo. Then I pushed the wood 4x4s it sat on to rotate it 90 degrees. Finally I wrapped a tow strap around the base, and pulled it to "unwind" it. I left the levelling screws in the base of the machine and allowed them to pierce the wood, so it was attached to the machine.
For my next move, I'm going to bring the forks together and lift the machine from the electrical cabinet side. I'll put blocks of wood between the base and the fork uprights, then use chains and binders to the column to secure it to the carriage. I think with this setup I might even be able to do it without extra ballast.
I've got 2 holes through the counterweight, like you'd have a hang on weight pack, like a coat hook hangs over a door. 2 vertical pins fit through the holes, then a box behind the counterweight. I'll fill the box with concrete, since it's easy to build up the box and fill with concrete.
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