Heavy 10 owners - what would you change? - Practical Machinist - Largest Manufacturing Technology Forum on the Web

Papagrizzly · #1 03-15-2009, 03:57 PM

Heavy 10 owners, what would you change in your Heavy 10 to make it an Ultimate Heavy 10?

calvin b · #2 03-15-2009, 04:41 PM

papagrizzly,
One thing I can change is the height.. It needs to be a tad higher for me.. and the other thing that I can't change is I'd like to have another 1.5 feet of bed on my 36 incher.. Other than that I kinda like it the way it is..
Stay safe
Calvin

heavyKen · #3 03-15-2009, 05:43 PM

I assume we're not talking about things that could be a sensible modification, but rather features we'd want in a re-design...

A few come time mind:

- much higher spindle speed (I tend to machine small parts)
- get rid of the damn flat belt and make it so you don't have to splice/cut it (pulling the spindle is tolerable however).
- tailstock that grabs the tang on the morse taper so they won't twist in the tailstock (I find that one almost inexcusable).
- better lever closer design

Ken

morsetaper2 · #4 03-15-2009, 05:49 PM

Add about 1000 lbs of mass, higher spindle speed, roller spindle bearings, gear head...

Papagrizzly · #5 03-15-2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heavyKen

I assume we're not talking about things that could be a sensible modification, but rather features we'd want in a re-design...

A few come time mind:

- much higher spindle speed (I tend to machine small parts)
- get rid of the damn flat belt and make it so you don't have to splice/cut it (pulling the spindle is tolerable however).
- tailstock that grabs the tang on the morse taper so they won't twist in the tailstock (I find that one almost inexcusable).
- better lever closer design

Ken

Yes - If South Bend lovers were to have a wish list in a re-design.

I think it would be unanimous to get rid of the flat belt and replace it with either a serpentine or "cogged" belt that keeps the vibration to a minimum.

Tailstock with a tang - good idea.

Any ideas on a better lever design?

Calvin, yes - the height of the bench needs to come up by about 2 1/2". I have a 1981 H10 and it is also too low for me.

Another one would be an EVS type variable speed drive (dial your speed).

aametalmaster · #6 03-15-2009, 06:04 PM

Vee belt would be the first thing.
A little higher also, i am going to set mine on a little cement pad. Other than that i am happy...Bob

aametalmaster · #7 03-15-2009, 06:08 PM

[QUOTE=Papagrizzly;1082576]

Tailstock with a tang - good idea.

QUOTE]

Thats an easy fix. A .59 cent brass 1/8" pipe plug and an hour and your tanged bits will never turn again. Just drill and tap where your flat would be on a tanged #2 MT drill bit, screw in the brass plug and grind off whats left to make it smooth...Bob

jim rozen · #8 03-15-2009, 06:13 PM

Replace leather belt with serpentine belt - requires no modification to machine and
costs about ten bucks. A no-brainer.

The lever closer works OK as long as the pin that allows locking the collet adjustment
is removed and thrown away.

Folks who wish for something to grab the tang on morse taper drills don't understand
how morse taper drills work. The tang is not there for driving. If the drill spins
because the taper in the ram is marked up, or the drill taper is defective, the
tang will shear off under heavy loads.

What would I like? A sensible way to install a DRO.

Jim

aametalmaster · #9 03-15-2009, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim rozen

Replace leather belt with serpentine belt - requires no modification to machine and
costs about ten bucks. A no-brainer.

Folks who wish for something to grab the tang on morse taper drills don't understand
how morse taper drills work. The tang is not there for driving. If the drill spins
because the taper in the ram is marked up, or the drill taper is defective, the
tang will shear off under heavy loads.

Good point's Jim, I know how they work but some of my drill's are beat up and who knows what the quill looks like inside. So do i buy a reamer for 25 bucks or a 59 cent plug that if it shears off so what i bought two of them. I have a few drill bits with a welded on tang because they got twisted off and i have 3 welders. As far as the serpentine belt my 10L will have an endless one because i am putting my drive in the air over the spindle so that will eliminate a few problems with the belt. I just need some time to work on it...Bob

moonlight machine · #10 03-15-2009, 07:23 PM

I don't have a heavy 10, I do have a 16. I'd change it to a Le Blond Regal. I have one also, so I do Know what I'm talking about!!

Tims World · #11 03-15-2009, 08:37 PM

I'm a former owner but some way to prevent oil from just running from the gear box and the lever closer on to the floor. Here is what I came up with using a couple of items found in most households.
Tim

santal8 · #12 03-15-2009, 10:07 PM

How about a lever action clutch for spindle engagement that doubles as a spindle brake. That is one feature of a 12" Clausing I use and really like. Fun to dream.....

IdahoJim · #13 03-15-2009, 10:52 PM

How about a T-slotted cross slide?
Jim

vettepicking · #14 03-15-2009, 10:59 PM

i would like a bigger thou bore on the spindle and a locking design so the chuck doesnt spin off. and what was said about not having to splice belts

moonlight machine · #15 03-15-2009, 11:21 PM

whats up with all the chucks "spinning off". I'v ben "pluging" mine for about 30 years, even with a 12" chuck on it. never spun one off yet!

jim rozen · #16 03-16-2009, 12:26 AM

The plug doesn't shear off, the tang on the drill does. If you are lucky then you can
back out the plugs you've threaded into the tailstock ram and get the pieces out.
In the meantime the shrapnel in there has made the taper situation worse.

You don't often see the 'two pipe plugs' retrofit on those machines. There may be
a lesson there, I don't know. I personally bought the reamer. Over the years, a
one, two and three morse taper. I guess I'm just a tool-head in this regard.

Jim

Mike C. · #17 03-16-2009, 12:30 AM

Metric threading gears built in, that's the only thing I would change in what is otherwise the perfect lathe of its size. If you want more meat, you want a bigger industrial lathe, not a SB10.

henrya · #18 03-16-2009, 12:32 AM

I have a Boxford 500VSL. It has many of the improvements mentioned here. 2500 RPM top speed with a 1.375 spindle bore in a massive ball bearing headstock. There's also a T-slot cross slide, v-belt with mechanical variable speed drive and running it with a VFD I have lots of options like accel. and decel. times, braking, reverse. It came with an electronic disk brake on the motor but I bypassed that when I put the VFD on.

And speaking of reverse mine has an L00 spindle nose so no chucks unscrewing while in reverse. It also has a very massive welded steel base with built-in coolant tank and pump. I'd say its about as perfected as the basic design allowed in 1980 and probably today as well.

Just to prove that's it British -and- a South Bend it leaks oil like a sieve. (or an old BSA)

On the other hand there is something very basic or almost primal about a South Bend lathe. They're kinda like bicycles in their simplicity and making them too complex might just take the magic away.

Here's some info and pictures:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxford/page3.html

mbogo375 · #19 03-16-2009, 12:37 AM

1) A longer travel on the tailstock quill.

2) A graduated dial collar for the apron handwheel.

3) A more convenient (flat) area to set an indicator base on the headstock (fore and aft) and tailstock.

4) An enclosed, constant bath lube, gear box.

Jim

Don_Hartman · #20 03-16-2009, 03:04 AM

All these changes you guys are talking about are making the "Heavy 10" a not so SB Heavy 10.

I would just turn it into a Hardinge HLV-H.Have you ever threaded on a Hardinge HLV-H with the quick draw handle?Whisper quiet, smooth and Variable...

If you want a different lathe sell yours and buy one!

Besides,What would we talk about then?

Don