Newbie - Air Compressor Questions

First off - Happy Remembrance Day / Veterans Day - - Lest we forget...

So it looks like I've found another great forum for a closet grease monkey like me. Tons of great information, so I thought I would join up, and jump right into the forums. Please forgive me if this is wrong forum to post this, or for the length of this initial post.

I just bought a used Sanborn, 60 gal., 3 cylinder upright air compressor. The name plate information is hard to see, but I think the model number is G500BC60V. Anyway, I am looking into different options for plumbing it into my garage/shop, but have a couple of questions to start. Hopefully someone can help.

Clicking/Chattering:
After running for a bit, relatively quietly, the compressor starts to click or chatter quite loudly. Using my mechanics stethescope I tried to track the sound. It seems to be loudest when held it onto what appears to be an in-line check valve plumbed in just near the top of the receiver (see photo). The check valve is also quite warm - warmer than the lines leading in or out of it. Could this be the source of the noise? I'm thinking of replacing it with an in-tank valve with an unloader port (currently I can't seem to find an unloader). Would this be better?

Vibration:
While running the compressor vibrates quite a bit. Actually, it's more like a "wobble" and since it is top-heavy, it tries to move around a bit. I know I could bolt it to the floor, but I would prefer not to. Is this normal for an upright compressor?

So, I think I'll stop there. I'm sure I'll have more questions, but this is enough for now. Thanks in advance for any help.

Weekend Mig

Looks like a nice compressor you snagged there. A couple comments to your questions ... it is quite possible that in-line check valve is flapping and making all the noise. If I were you, I'd get rid of both the in-line valve and that plastic hose too. Carefully bend/route the finned pipe directly into a side entry check valve that you screw directly into the top of the tank. I don't use the unloader on mine because my motor is of sufficient size to start the compressor easily.

For 30 years, I've just used hockey pucks under the tank legs. They are held in place by a short lag bolt (that doesn't go completely thru the puck). This will stop the unit from moving around on a smooth conrete floor ... and will help quiet it too because you eliminate the metal to concrete vibration.

Couple more things ... change the oil on the compressor every year. It's the best thing you can do for it to prolong it's life. It only takes 30 minutes/year and costs a few bucks for a quart of oil. The next best thing you should do is add an auto-drain solenoid to the bottom of the tank to drain the moisture out. There are different brands out there but most just plug into a 120 volt receptacle and can be set to exhaust 1-2 seconds of air every couple hours.

Thanks for the reply - I have some follow-up questions...

Nightshift said:

...If I were you, I'd get rid of both the in-line valve and that plastic hose too. Carefully bend/route the finned pipe directly into a side entry check valve that you screw directly into the top of the tank...

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Do you use compression fittings and copper piping? What size?

Nightshift said:

For 30 years, I've just used hockey pucks under the tank legs. They are held in place by a short lag bolt (that doesn't go completely thru the puck)...

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Regular hard ice hockey pucks or spungies?

Nightshift said:

Couple more things ... change the oil on the compressor every year)...

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Does it use regular oil? SAE 10W30?

Nightshift said:

...The next best thing you should do is add an auto-drain solenoid to the bottom of the tank to drain the moisture out...

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Good idea, I'll look into that as well.

Weekend Mig said:

Thanks for the reply - I have some follow-up questions...

Do you use compression fittings and copper piping? What size?

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Yes, the larger the better. Ideally the same size as the finned pipe coming off your compressor.

Regular hard ice hockey pucks or spungies?

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Just the standard hard ice hockey pucks found in any kids hockey bag

Does it use regular oil? SAE 10W30?

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No. Use ISO 68 Compressor oil. Get at Canadian Tire, TSC or Princess Auto to name a few.

On that topic of oil. I have an old compressor from 1944. What oil should i use on mine. Will simple motor oil be ok?

Booster said:

On that topic of oil. I have an old compressor from 1944. What oil should i use on mine. Will simple motor oil be ok?

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Booster, my compressor is an old Brunner 2-stage cast iron pump. Might not be as old as yours, but certainly no newer than 1960. I've been running ISO 68 compressor oil in it every year and have had zero problems. It amazes me, considering its age, at how smooth and quite it still runs. I would never use a detergent car oil in a compressor ... when you can buy ISO 68 for the same price. The MAIN THING is to religiously change it every year (I do mine in the fall when I'm changing oil in all the other motors I own) because there is no water jacket around the compressor to keep it cool, and it does heat up if used a lot (which breaks the oil down over time).

How much oil does a 3-cylinder pump like mine use? It has a viewing glass on one side, but how far up the glass should it be? It's currently about 1/2 - is that enough?

BTW, I LOVE Princess Auto!!!

Weekend Mig said:

How much oil does a 3-cylinder pump like mine use? It has a viewing glass on one side, but how far up the glass should it be? It's currently about 1/2 - is that enough?

BTW, I LOVE Princess Auto!!!

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I fill mine to the middle of the sight glass.

The wobble could be from unbalanced pulleys.

It looks like the motor pulley has been welded on with a Princess Auto hub and sheave; look in line with the pulley while it's running to see if it's off true.

Looking at the actual compressor assembly, it also looks like one from Princess Auto, in which case the fly wheel is probably off balance as well. (Not to knock the Princess, but it is what it is)

I've balanced a fly wheel by taking it off and mounting it on a suitably sized shaft, then let it sit between centres on a lathe to see what size is the heavy side. Material was then taken off that side by pocketing it with a 1/4" endmill.

Perhaps someone else has a more practical way to balance a flywheel though.

i've used SAE 30 in more than one compressor per there manual
i agree with the balance theory
could you use and old mower blade balancer?

You should not use regular motor oil in a compressor. You should use 30W NON-Detergent motor oil. Compressors get moisture in their crankcase and detergent oil will pick up the water and keep it suspended. Non-D will keep oil and water seperate. If you have ever seen detergent oil with water in it, it was grey and foamy looking.
You should be able to buy Non-D oil at most auto parts stores. They sell synthetic compressor oil but I would not bother with it. Since a compressor pump usually out lasts the motor with just regular oil.

Somebody like Forrest would probably shoot us for trying to make substitutes but I was told by a rep at Ingersol that vacuum pump oil is a good substitute. It does not have detergents in it and is generally a good quality oil of about 30 w. I have been using it for over 30 years in my compressor and it is still going strong. The reason I do this is that I use a lot of vacuum pump oil and buy it by the case. I have it on hand all the time so why not if it is OK to do so. I do change it every year. Well.....almost every year.

Timw said:

You should not use regular motor oil in a compressor. You should use 30W NON-Detergent motor oil. Compressors get moisture in their crankcase and detergent oil will pick up the water and keep it suspended. Non-D will keep oil and water seperate. If you have ever seen detergent oil with water in it, it was grey and foamy looking.
You should be able to buy Non-D oil at most auto parts stores. They sell synthetic compressor oil but I would not bother with it. Since a compressor pump usually out lasts the motor with just regular oil.

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I had no luck at the local auto stores finding 30W oil, much less non-detergent 30W. But then I saw my local Harbor Freight store had real 30W air compressor oil. I looked just now and did not see it on their website, though.

Larry

L Vanice said:

I had no luck at the local auto stores finding 30W oil, much less non-detergent 30W. But then I saw my local Harbor Freight store had real 30W air compressor oil. I looked just now and did not see it on their website, though.

Larry

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Larry ... Walmart has straight 30. Cheap too.