10K Apron - No Selector Holes

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

I am assembling a 10K lathe for the first time. The apron does not have any holes in the casting for the shift lever positions. I am referring to the power feed selector which has three positions, length feed, neutral, and cross feed. I have not seen this in other descriptions or photos.

Can anyone explain this? Thanks!

iwananew10K · Jan 10, 2017

Pics???

Does not make sense unless it was an unfinished part...but ifthat is really what you have and is otherwise complete easy enough to drill the detents.

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

Thanks for the reply. I will get a photo tonight and post it.

I received two lathes in pieces from a friend cleaning out his storage spaces. He used to have a small business in machinery and rebuilding stuff. So I am making the best lathe out of two sets of parts. Both are cabinet drive 10K units. I only have the one apron however, and as I said, no holes for the selector. Funny, because it is complete and has obviously been in use. I cleaned it all and replaced the felts and such.

I plan to drill the holes, but I want to make sure they are located in the right spot. Neutral is easy. But I want to make sure I don't drill a hole in the drive position where the gear backlash is too tight. No adjustment after the hole is drilled. I'm also curious as how the unit kept the gears engaged without a detent hole. The gears would tend to push apart against resistance without a holding pin. Hmmm.

Thanks Again - John

Monarchist · Jan 10, 2017

AKJOHN62 said:
Thanks for the reply. I will get a photo tonight and post it.

I received two lathes in pieces from a friend cleaning out his storage spaces. He used to have a small business in machinery and rebuilding stuff. So I am making the best lathe out of two sets of parts. Both are cabinet drive 10K units. I only have the one apron however, and as I said, no holes for the selector. Funny, because it is complete and has obviously been in use. I cleaned it all and replaced the felts and such.

I plan to drill the holes, but I want to make sure they are located in the right spot. Neutral is easy. But I want to make sure I don't drill a hole in the drive position where the gear backlash is too tight. No adjustment after the hole is drilled. I'm also curious as how the unit kept the gears engaged without a detent hole. The gears would tend to push apart against resistance without a holding pin. Hmmm.

Thanks Again - John

Item ever been painted? See if holes are THERE. but were simply Bondo'ed and the painter just didn't get back to cleaning them up.

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

Here is photo of apron. I painted it so I know it is bare cast iron and no holes.

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

Another shot.

iwananew10K · Jan 10, 2017

I think Bill is right...looks like the holes may have been filled and painted over...maybe take a razor blade and get the paint off.

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

iwananew10K said:
I think Bill is right...looks like the holes may have been filled and painted over...maybe take a razor blade and get the paint off.

Appreciate the comment and interest. It is bare cast iron underneath with no holes. I could sand it off to show you. Does this make any sense?

iwananew10K · Jan 10, 2017

in any case I would remove the paint...if for no other reason then just because it will look bad with the big scrape from the detent pin rubbing and to give you a good surface to mark and drill on.

Monarchist · Jan 10, 2017

iwananew10K said:
in any case I would remove the paint...if for no other reason then just because it will look bad with the big scrape from the detent pin rubbing and to give you a good surface to mark and drill on.

It ain't we chikin's as need to see it. I WOULD sand it, because you are not 100% sure the swing arm and shaft were pinned in the right place - so my find them a tad displaced.

In any case, no point playin' Sherlock over how it came to be - rejected casting or closed production line over-run parts later salvaged, a repair part sent out KNOWING it had to be matched on the machine for best fit - wotever.

You need to make proper divots, regardless.

Bill

AKJOHN62 · Jan 10, 2017

iwananew10K said:
in any case I would remove the paint...if for no other reason then just because it will look bad with the big scrape from the detent pin rubbing and to give you a good surface to mark and drill on.

Thank you. I also thought about making a brass plate maybe 1/8 thick with holes as an overlay. Would allow some adjustment and would look nice.

johnoder · Jan 11, 2017

Look on other side and see what nice gear engagement has to say about WHERE the holes should be

AKJOHN62 · Jan 11, 2017

Definitely will check the other side and maintain proper backlash. I am guessing this was a replacement part or raw stock that was intended to be matched to the machine. Maybe the previous guy only used the threading feed and didn't bother with the power feed. Hard to say.

thomasutley · Jan 12, 2017

I'm going to assume it was an unfinished part and intended to be match drilled post-assembly -- just like dozens of other parts on South Bend lathes -- due to tolerance stack-ups.

If it was, in fact, drilled and then filled in a way that's not readily visible, you'll know soon enough once you start drilling. You have violated the first rule of machine tool painting, however, by painting a machined surface. I would recommend that you take the paint off that boss before putting the machine into service.

All that said, I would assemble the affected internals within the apron, remove the spring-loaded selector knob, and temporarily assemble the selector arm with its taper pin back onto its shaft. Then I would use the open selector handle bore as a drill guide to locate the new holes. You may need to turn a drill bushing to center the drill in this hole. To find the limits of travel, in the lack of any other engineering guidance from someone like Ted, I would slip a piece of heavy paper such as a brown grocery bag between the gears at each end of the selector's range. This clearance will get you in the ballpark of the correct running gap.

Good luck!

AKJOHN62 · Jan 18, 2017

Thanks - I have it all drilled out now and it shifts fine.

I sanded the paint off for a clean surface. Then I used ran the pin back and forth to make a scrape line in an arc to mark the general position. I started with the neutral position by verifying the pin detent on the threading lever from the rear. I marked a large area with a black sharpie and then rotated the pin in place to mark my drill spot. I repeated this for the other positions and drilled them. I used a die grinder and carbide cutter to square up the bottom of the holes.

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