10k Friction feed

I just looked at a 10R and like the handle lever for the friction feed. Is it possible to adapt the lever to a 10k to remove the star wheel handle? I see both the lever and star wheels came on the 10R's and 10L's but I haven't seen one on a 10k.


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I don't think it is possible using 10L parts. I recalled someone on here converted a 10L from star knob to a lever and after he did he wondered why he bothered.

Hey Gary thanks for the reply. I decided to go the simple route and turned up a knurled brass knob to replace the star wheel. I will post a pic of it installed on my lathe when I get home today.

I measured up the original star and made the brass part fit within the same dimensional window. The original is 0.812 thick, I made the knob 1.000" thick. The star od across the points is 1.875". I made the knob od 1.750. The knurled area is 0.625 wide. I tried it out and am very happy with results! Although the knurling tool I used is a piece of junk. I will be buying a Dorian cut knurler soon.


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I wouldn't mind a lever on my 10L, but the price of the parts vs the benefit of having it doesn't seem like a good trade to me.

You could probably make your own if you studied the design of the 10L piece. I might consider doing that whenever I add a mill to my workshop.

The reason for the original question is I have never used the friction feed on my machine. When I looked at the 10R and used the lever friction feed I realized I should be using that instead of the half nut all the time. I never used the star wheel simply because I am used to pulling a lever for carriage feeding and not used to turning a dial. We have a South Bend 400 at work I use all the time and it has a fric feed lever as well as a half nut lever.

I did do some turn work last night with the 10k and used the fric knob. All I can say us wow! I couldn't believe the difference in finish and difference in depth of cut I was able to take! It is like a whole new machine to me again! Wish I had done this 6 years ago when I first bought the lathe!! I couldn't believe I was taking nearly 0.100" doc in 6061 aluminum at highest belt speed with carbide. For only a 1/2 hp motor I am pretty impressed.

Using a uniform knob with a gripped surface will be more comfortable for me.


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I studied the apron and star wheel interface. I also looked at the 10r clutch mechanism. Thank you Steve Wells. There wasn't an easy way to modify the 10k to operate like a 10r. There isn't much real estate on the apron to attach a base for a handle and then there would be some sort of complicated works to pinch the clutch shaft as it rotates. So I listened to Occam and went the simple route.


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Here are a few pics of the finished product. Works well. I can rest my fingers on it as it is rotating so I can unscrew it quickly. Gives a more secure feeling of control.







Not real happy with knurling, but when Dorian is in control the results will be much better.[emoji1]


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Nice job. I also don't like the feel of the star knob on my 9A. The lever on my 13" is very positive compared to the star knob.

John

Hm, I like the knurl solution. One thing with the star knob is that if I have oil on my hands, the knob is easy to have slip on tightening or loosening. Whenever I get around to picking up a knurling tool I may have to copy your idea here.

Thank you gentlemen. I can say after using the lathe with the clutch feed and the new knob I am very happy with the results. I like being able to leave my fingers on the knob while it is engaged so I can quickly disengage. As I stated previously I am used to pulling a lever on the SBL 400 at work so getting used to a knob is a bit different. I do have a drawing I can post as a PDF.


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PmGRacer said:

I do have a drawing I can post as a PDF.

Click to expand...

Please do!

Here is the drawing. Use with caution.[emoji12]
I have this saved as a PDF as well. PM me and I can email the file.



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