13" Saddle Cross Feed Screw Bushing?

Hi,
I have lots of questions. Two more please.
Please see the pic, I was cleaning/inspecting. I loosened the , I thought oil screw and this bushing popped out. At first I thought this was a bearing and the balls were gone then I realized the screw is a retainer and this is the bushing for the screw.
I assume this is correct? It is an engineering design I have never seen in my 61 years.
Second, where can I get specifications/tolerances for this 113A 13" South Bend Lathe ser# 119315? The reason I ask is I have .012" lateral movement in the Apron pinion gear. I was watching Halligan and he set his up with .004. I am hoping to do some thread cutting with this lathe and have questions about that, but, we will kick that can down the road.
Thank you very much, I hope you don't mind me bugging you guys.
Jeff

Janderso said:

Hi,
I have lots of questions. Two more please.
Please see the pic, I was cleaning/inspecting. I loosened the , I thought oil screw and this bushing popped out. At first I thought this was a bearing and the balls were gone then I realized the screw is a retainer and this is the bushing for the screw.
I assume this is correct? It is an engineering design I have never seen in my 61 years.
Second, where can I get specifications/tolerances for this 113A 13" South Bend Lathe ser# 119315? The reason I ask is I have .012" lateral movement in the Apron pinion gear. I was watching Halligan and he set his up with .004. I am hoping to do some thread cutting with this lathe and have questions about that, but, we will kick that can down the road.
Thank you very much, I hopeView attachment 221256 you don't mind me bugging you guys.
Jeff

Click to expand...

The part in pic is not a bushing that you thrust off of. It is more of a chip/dirt guard to keep debris away from the actual bearings.

When you remove dial, and dial key way, dont forget the key way btw, you will be able to shove the screw out towards that chip guard/ bushing thing. If you forget the key way, you can wreck a bearing. That retaining screw does have to be out, as you have done.

Maybe something with my settings, or the site itself, but I can't tell if my pm's are sent and the sent box is always at zero. But I have some pics to explain what you were asking me.

Just as a side note, outside of whatever insanity is going on on the machine reconditioning forum currently, you can ask pretty much anything here and everyone is pretty helpful, though maybe slow to reply.

On to the issue, think like wheel bearings on the front axle of a car. One set of bearings on each side of spindle, drawing together and removing end play, and maybe putting a little pre-load on. The cross feed screw has similar.

In the pic, the bearing is a single piece with races and balls inside, but I have had 3 piece bearings as well, 2 races with ball assembly in middle.

There should be a total of two complete bearing assemblies, one up against drive gear, and one towards dial side just inside that dial base key way.

The are basically two key ways, one for hand wheel, one for dial base. Key way for dial base will wreck the outer bearing if not removed first. The dial comes apart in a few pieces. Pretty sure the thumb screw to set zero on dial needs to be fully removed.

With hand wheel removed, put nut back on so as to not damage threads. get the out portion of dials off, and maybe need to tap crossfeed in to get dial base to break loose, just stop before driving key way into bearing.

Edit: the chip guard/ bushing thing in your first post keeps chips away from gear and chips from falling into apron. The one bearing is on other side of gear.

Post the specs of that bearing...I'll see if I can source it.
If you don't mind add some close up pics of it off the shaft.

if it's out there I will find it.

iwananew10K said:

Post the specs of that bearing...I'll see if I can source it.
If you don't mind add some close up pics of it off the shaft.

if it's out there I will find it.

Click to expand...

I'll try to do that this evening, and see if i have the other style as well. The pics in the above post were replaced with an NOS assembly i found. I still need to get to my other 16 at some point, but i have already been collecting some parts for it, so i may have better examples.

I just saw this, I'll get some pics tonight and post soon. Thanks

iwananew10K said:

Post the specs of that bearing...I'll see if I can source it.
If you don't mind add some close up pics of it off the shaft.

if it's out there I will find it.

Click to expand...

I didn't entirely forget about this, not entirely, haha. I was trying to find the other version of this bearing, thought I had a loose one.

The other style is three pieces. Captured balls, are one piece in the middle, then two races. The races are kind of like flat washers with a groove for balls to roll on. This bearing is for thrust/end play only, not up/down support of cross feed screw.

I have a terrible pic, you can see part of the captured ball section, plus part of one race. I'll work on getting dimensions.

The 3 piece one has proved to be pretty much unavailable...but would be easy to make a flat race version...

The other one I might be able to find...I know Auburn makes one that will work but it's a little thicker and is expensive.

INA 06Y36 enclosed thrust bearing
ID= .629"
OD= 1.00"
TH= .375"

iwananew10K said:

INA 06Y36 enclosed thrust bearing
ID= .629"
OD= 1.00"
TH= .375"

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Damn, you rock.

My numbers are close. This is the one piece bearing numbers.

ID: .63" or 16mm
OD: 1.126" or 28.65mm
TH: .344" or 8.65mm

I wrote metric as well because searching your part number I was seeing others listed with specs in metric. Guessing ID and thickness are a little more crucial to get it to fit, so long as OD is not too monstrous to fit in hole.

Shoot, I thought it was limited to an OD of 1" or less....

That's TOO easy, and cheap...needle thrust and Use thicker washers, and this is Grainger(first link that came up)
INA Needle Thrust Bearing,Bore.625 In - 4XFN3'|'TC118 - Grainger

I'm not real familiar with the 13"- is this a case where the original 3 piece bearing could be replaced with the first one I linked and then a cheap needle bearing used for the other end??

iwananew10K said:

Shoot, I thought it was limited to an OD of 1" or less....

That's TOO easy, and cheap...needle thrust and Use thicker washers, and this is Grainger(first link that came up)
INA Needle Thrust Bearing,Bore.625 In - 4XFN3'|'TC118 - Grainger

I'm not real familiar with the 13"- is this a case where the original 3 piece bearing could be replaced with the first one I linked and then a cheap needle bearing used for the other end??

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Mine is a 16", but I was guessing it was the same kind of setup as the OP's 13. Either way, I'm not entirely sure if same od hole on both ends, though that bearing I have fit both ends if I recall. I don't have a saddle apart at the moment, I was using old parts for the pics and measurements.

I was expecting the OP to chime in previous, as he was right on the verge of having cross feed screw out, but looking at his other posts He's putting things back together to see how it does.

texasgunsmith said:

Mine is a 16", but I was guessing it was the same kind of setup as the OP's 13. Either way, I'm not entirely sure if same od hole on both ends, though that bearing I have fit both ends if I recall. I don't have a saddle apart at the moment, I was using old parts for the pics and measurements.

I was expecting the OP to chime in previous, as he was right on the verge of having cross feed screw out, but looking at his other posts He's putting things back together to see how it does.

Click to expand...

I did reassemble once you guys explained the strange items that fell out. After reading about the bearings though I may take it apart again. If I have an inside bearing it stayed inside the housing, no bearing came out with the shaft.