1939 9C, Beginning Restoration

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 1, 2017

Hello All. I'm new to this forum as of today. Picked up a SB9 last week. Purchased this from the son of the original owner. The ways are in fantastic shape as I believe this lathe was used more for wood than metal cutting. Have yet to find a metal chip anywhere on it. It did come with all the change gears, thread counter, wrenches, four jaw Chuck drive motor and even the leather belt.

I've already got the new felts, oils and have had a lot of fun researching these little lathes. This one will likely get a DC motor conversion, tachometer and maybe a DRO in the future.

Will try to upload a pic or two.

Looking forward to learning as I go from all you talented folks!

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 1, 2017

Here she is, in her new home awaiting disassembly.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 3, 2017

Making progress. Got a good start on stripping it down. Lots of oil soaked sawdust inside everything! I think I found one metal chip haha...

Removed the rack from the bed too. I'm thinking about taking the piece meal approach by tackling one component at a time.

For paint choice, I'm leaning toward the Rust-Oleum "Hammered" in either black or silver color. Any thoughts on that paint?

mauserman95-98 · Apr 4, 2017

Paint color is up to you, after all, it's your lathe. Just be sure to pick a good industrial paint.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 4, 2017

mauserman95-98 said:
Paint color is up to you, after all, it's your lathe. Just be sure to pick a good industrial paint.

I was mostly curious if anyone had used it on their lathe to get some input on how well it holds up. I recently did the rollcage in my car with it and I love the looks. Just not sure how well it holds up. I will say it's very easy for touchups.

Here are the two colors I'm considering, black and silver. The black has two coats so it's a bit smoother and more shiny.

mauserman95-98 · Apr 5, 2017

LS7 Prodigy said:
I was mostly curious if anyone had used it on their lathe to get some input on how well it holds up. I recently did the rollcage in my car with it and I love the looks. Just not sure how well it holds up. I will say it's very easy for touchups.

Here are the two colors I'm considering, black and silver. The black has two coats so it's a bit smoother and more shiny.

View attachment 195661

I like the look of the hammered paints, but couldnt tell you how they hold up. I used Hammerite brand black hammered on a custom bumper I built for a friends Jeep and it is holding up very well(3 Years now). My concern would be that the black will show any imperfections/dings/scratches more than the silver and the silver will show oil/crud/dirt and swarf more. I am using a industrial alkyd enamel from Sherwin Williams for my model C resto.

Hope this helps! I am a wee bit jealous that you found such a nice lathe here in my home state, as I am sure you know that isnt very easy to do. The nice machines are way to expensive and the affordable ones are still over priced and clapped out. have fun and keep the pics coming.

Do you have a horizontal drive for your lathe? I dont see it in the pics.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 5, 2017

mauserman95-98 said:
I like the look of the hammered paints, but couldnt tell you how they hold up. I used Hammerite brand black hammered on a custom bumper I built for a friends Jeep and it is holding up very well(3 Years now). My concern would be that the black will show any imperfections/dings/scratches more than the silver and the silver will show oil/crud/dirt and swarf more. I am using a industrial alkyd enamel from Sherwin Williams for my model C resto.

Hope this helps! I am a wee bit jealous that you found such a nice lathe here in my home state, as I am sure you know that isnt very easy to do. The nice machines are way to expensive and the affordable ones are still over priced and clapped out. have fun and keep the pics coming.

Do you have a horizontal drive for your lathe? I dont see it in the pics.

I actually picked up the lathe from Portland if that makes you feel any better haha... I'm in Vancouver so it was a quick drive for me.

I know what you mean about the differences with the colors as I've pondered those same pros/cons. I think I'm leaning toward the silver. I'm just a hobbyist so it's not like this lathe will be used on a daily basis. I can afford to clean up after the occasional use. I'm heading over to my buddies machine shop that has a large sand blast cabinet. I'm going to use that for the items that don't have any oil passages like the bed, gear covers etc. Hopefully will get that done tomorrow night so I can start painting this weekend.

Yes, the lathe came with everything including the motor, drive pulleys, leather belt etc. I'm contemplating a DC motor conversion for it though. If so, I might make a different mount for the motor/pulley as I don't think the DC motor will need any gearing advantage with a VFD speed controller. From my understanding, the DC motors make equal (max) hp/tq throughout their rpm range. A 3/4 hp DC motor should be plenty to drive this small lathe even with a larger pinion pulley but I'm still researching that aspect of it.

Are you documenting your lathe restoration/rebuild on here?

mauserman95-98 · Apr 5, 2017

LS7 Prodigy said:
I actually picked up the lathe from Portland if that makes you feel any better haha... I'm in Vancouver so it was a quick drive for me.

Nope , it doesn't.

I'm heading over to my buddies machine shop that has a large sand blast cabinet. I'm going to use that for the items that don't have any oil passages like the bed, gear covers etc.

Yikes! Dont blast any of the machined surfaces!

Are you documenting your lathe restoration/rebuild on here?

Not as of yet. It's pretty slow going. I do intend to post the resto when I near the end.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 8, 2017

More progress made on this old gals facelift. Got the bed, feet and some misc parts pushed through the industrial parts washer. Then they got bead blasted.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 8, 2017

Now it's time for some paint before the surface rust starts on this old iron. Decided to go with the silver Rust-Oleum "Hammered" in the pint that gets brushed on.

First coat looks ok but the second coat really gets that "Hammered" finish going.

MrCat63 · Apr 9, 2017

I think you'll find the Rustoleum hammered will hold up pretty well. Though I haven't used it on a lathe, I've used it on all my woodworking tools. Haven't seen a problem with it yet.

onecut · Apr 9, 2017

Dont like black-It would look good grey

RWanke · Apr 10, 2017

I was wondering if there are any special precautions you had to take with bead blasting these parts? Did you tape up or otherwise protect the ways or any other machined surfaces before blasting?

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 10, 2017

RWanke said:
I was wondering if there are any special precautions you had to take with bead blasting these parts? Did you tape up or otherwise protect the ways or any other machined surfaces before blasting?

I was very cautious about not blasting the ways. Not sure if it would cause any problems or not but did not want to risk it.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 10, 2017

Huge shout out and thank you to Jim Kill for the very quick shipping and great looking replacement plates. Ordered these on Friday morning and they show up on Monday. Talk about the quickness....

I also ordered up and received the roller bearing kit that replaces the fiber washer on the spindle adjustment.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 12, 2017

Well I got a little stuck on disassembly when it came to removing the lead screw from the cross slide and compound. I didn't have a spanner wrench. Every where I looked wanted about 40.00 or more for one. So I used the ol' grey matter between the ears to come up with this frankenwrench. It worked great too. Basically used the end mill to create a flat spot to start a hole. Drilled a 1/8" hole then used an 1/8" punch that had given its life in a previous venture.

On another note, I'm replacing the flimsy style brass way felt holders. Found the more beefy looking New Old Stock ones on eBay. These were not cheap but once they're polished, I believe the look will be worth the extra coin.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 17, 2017

More progress this weekend. Got the saddle, cross slide and compound stripped down, cleaned and painted. Much more taping involved than I originally thought haha...

Next on the list will probably be the apron. I've been using some Castrol degreaser in full strength. Bought a 2.5 gallon jug and been soaking the parts overnight. Seems to be stripping the factory paint off with just some mild brushing after the soaking. Pretty impressed with it so far. If you use that stuff, wear gloves. My glove got a hole in it and my right hand looks like it got the life sucked from it lol... Very dry and scaly although no blistering.

v8packard · Apr 17, 2017

I am impressed with the job you are doing. I have never restored a machine tool myself and greatly admire the dedication.

Do be careful with the degreaser. It has a very high ph, probably 12-13 or so. That much alkalinity breaks the bond that oil and grease has on surfaces allowing it to wash off. Those surfaces include skin, and the oils that are naturally found in skin. The slimy, oily feel of the you skin when you get the purple cleaners in contact with your hands is the oil in your skin being pulled out by the high ph. And do not use the purple cleaners on aluminum, unless you want to watch it foam away into oblivion.

Best of luck to you!

Marc

WJ Birmingham · Apr 17, 2017

I've always wondered why nobody has disassembled and had their lathe electroless nickle plated.

LS7 Prodigy · Apr 17, 2017

v8packard said:
I am impressed with the job you are doing. I have never restored a machine tool myself and greatly admire the dedication.

Do be careful with the degreaser. It has a very high ph, probably 12-13 or so. That much alkalinity breaks the bond that oil and grease has on surfaces allowing it to wash off. Those surfaces include skin, and the oils that are naturally found in skin. The slimy, oily feel of the you skin when you get the purple cleaners in contact with your hands is the oil in your skin being pulled out by the high ph. And do not use the purple cleaners on aluminum, unless you want to watch it foam away into oblivion.

Best of luck to you!

Marc

Thanks for the kind words Marc. I love doing this kind of stuff so when I first picked up this lathe, I already knew what I was getting into haha....

You sound like you're speaking from experience with the purple stuff on the hands issue. That slippery feeling when I went to wash my hands is exactly what I felt and it did not seem to want to wash off. I did not realize that was my own oils from my hand. I was using some very thin nitrile gloves but one of them obtained a rip and I did not realize it until I was nearly finished with the parts. I will have to pick up a heavier pair of dishwashing gloves for cleaning/degreasing parts I guess.

Mike

1939 9C, Beginning Restoration

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Attachments

Plastic

Plastic

Hot Rolled

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Plastic

Aluminum

Cast Iron

Plastic

Similar threads