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9" cross slide handle will not come off

Cosnar16

Cast Iron
Joined
Apr 1, 2012
Location
MA
I am in the process of replacing my .100" dial to a .200" dial on my 60's 9" South Bend. I have seen several videos and read that its fairly easy to remove the cross slide handle. However, I cannot for the life of me get mine off. I've removed the 'nut' on the end, and I cant pull the handle off. I've read that some of the earlier handles had a taper pin through them but I cant find any sign of one. Am I doing something wrong or am I just missing a step? Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Eric
 
Heating might help, along with some Kroil or other penetrating oil.
In the end, I had to tap mine off with a soft hammer.
Any burrs on the threaded portion will get in the way.
 
did you try running a forklift into it? I know a lot of guys around the shop like to remove handles with forklifts :sulk:
 
I am in the process of replacing my .100" dial to a .200" dial on my 60's 9" South Bend. I have seen several videos and read that its fairly easy to remove the cross slide handle. However, I cannot for the life of me get mine off. I've removed the 'nut' on the end, and I cant pull the handle off. I've read that some of the earlier handles had a taper pin through them but I cant find any sign of one. Am I doing something wrong or am I just missing a step? Any help is greatly appreciated.
-Eric

the pin is there but not through the handle but lengthwise in the handle
once the nut is of you can see it
it is what is keeping the handle from spinning round the shaft
 
I'm restoring my 1951 9a and am at the same point, so I snapped a few shots. I used a small gear puller that I got at the plumbing store to take off the rusty handles when I re-did my bathroom. Hope these help.
1 end showing pin.jpg2 with small puller.jpg3 apart showing pin and slot.jpg
 
you can do this right in your lathe,with the power off.
just set the jaws your chuck so you can slide the bushing in(don`t actually grip it)
then use your tailstock with a dead center to press it, if it`s a really tight one leave the slotted nut on but backed off a turn to keep it from mushrooming
once they are started they will usually come off easy - just take care not to lose the dutchman pin
 
you can do this right in your lathe,with the power off.
just set the jaws your chuck so you can slide the bushing in(don`t actually grip it)
then use your tailstock with a dead center to press it(the 60 degree point of the dead center will keep it from mushrooming since it`s already centerdrilled)
once they are started they will usually come off easy - just take care not to lose the dutchman pin

Do not do that...:nono:
He has a large dial with thrust bearings. The collar inside has a pin through it.
Ted
 
Do not do that...:nono:
He has a large dial with thrust bearings. The collar inside has a pin through it.
Ted

Thank you for all the help everyone, I was able to get it off with a little hammering and some WD40, Ted, got the new dial on it and it looks great, thanks! :)
 








 
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