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Approx cost for a Heavy 10L

How much should I offer?

  • Less than $500

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $500

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $750

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • $1000

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    7
  • Poll closed .

njdevi11

Plastic
Joined
Oct 23, 2017
After watching way to much abom79, AVE and This old Tony, I'm looking to buy a southbend heavy 10 to use for hobby and learning and I figured you guys might be some help.

I found one in good shape however, if it was a car, I'd call it a rolling chassis on bald tires. There is no motor, no chucks, no thread dial, no steady rest, no centers, no drill chucks and otherwise no tooling. There is a standard lantern tool holder, a tail stock and 2 mounting plates. It's disassembled because a previous owner was refurbishing / painting it before the person who has it now acquired it.

THE GOOD: there is almost no runout on the spindle, no marks or nicks or wear on the ways. I'm not afraid of putting it back together, or fabri-cobbling something if I need tool holders or adapters etc. I'm afraid that even though I went over it and found all the major components are there in the boxes, It might be missing stuff I've overlooked. I know these go for a lot since they've got a big spindle bore for a lathe this size. What's it worth in this extremely sparse trim since it's going to need about another $1000 in stuff to be reasonably useful.

Stuff I'll need to add.
Need:
Motor $150 (was gonna go with Hazard Fraught 220v 2hp to get going, then 3ph with vfd eventually)
3 or 4 Jaw Chuck $250
Drill chuck $50
Thread Dial: $150
Live Center: $50
Home Made Drawbar + Collet adapter + Collets: $200-$300
Fresh Belt $50
Misc stuff I might be forgetting (bearings, bolts, pins, etc) $100-$200

Nice to have:
Steady rest: $250
Another Chuck $250
QCTP: $150
Insert tooling: $Arm/Leg - $∞
 
Mine runs a 1/2 hp motor and while I can bog it a bit, the belt usually slips before the motor stalls. 3/4 would be plenty. Also have to consider what your reversing switch is rated to handle power-wise.

Mine came with most of the goodies for $750. No 4 jaw and no drawbar and the old lantern post. After replacing some damaged parts I'm probably into it for around $1100 plus my time. It has wear but its not worn out beyond being able to make parts.

That said, I wouldn't want to be into one that needs a grand in parts plus re-assembly time for more than $500 for just the machine, and thats for something that is really in good condition. I still might be tempted to turn it into a parts machine even at that point.
 
IDK..That one is a late model,hard bed,lever clutch,large dial,wide range gearbox, collet set up,quick change and holders, multi position carriage stop, close mount stop bracket,chucks,VFD? With nice control layout...might be more stuff there too.

Asking 2900 but I'm sure that could be negotiated down some.

Compared to a bare in pieces older project machine I would call it a bargain.

Steadies are easily found(I like the cast finger type better) and IMO taper attachments are overrated unless you really have a use for one.

But I do generally agree, if patient better can always be found, but is good to also keep in mind that the sting of initial price doesn't last long.

The pain of a never ending project does.:)
 
I guess I don't understand this thread. Are you asking how much YOU should pay for a Heavy 10? Or are you asking how much any of US paid for our Heavy 10? I'm not sure this makes any more sense than "How big is a horse?" What information are you after?
 
Thanks for responding guys, This was kinda a duplicate thread since I posted this one first, and it seemed to have disappeared, then did it again without the poll.

@Dobermann
The question was how much should I offer for that particular one, which was disassembled with no motor and not much tooling. He wanted $700, but I don't think I would do more than $500 in the shape it was in.

I found another, which is ready to go, with a collet lever, thread dial & faceplate but no 3 or 4 jaw, he wants $1300 but I'm going to try to get a chuck out of him for that price or to drop it to $1100. Can anybody help me with the setup that is on the head in this picture? I see a collet lever and a faceplate with what looks like a really long dead center.

s-l1600.jpg


@iwannanew10k
Thanks for your recommendation via PM, That lathe sold already before I got to it. I tried to reply but the forum said your inbox was full.
 
The tip of the item sticking out is rather blunt for a center. My guess is that he's using that plate as a make-shift thread protector for use with the collet system.

If you get that lathe make sure you look for the arm that connects the lever collet system. It may be bolted to the headstock and simply out of view, or it may have been taken off. Just make sure you look for it.
 
Looks reasonable. Just know that the leadscrew for the cross slide is an integral part of the taper attachment. You will need to find a regular lead screw and rear cover to replace the ones you sell with the attachment.
 
Looks reasonable. Just know that the leadscrew for the cross slide is an integral part of the taper attachment. You will need to find a regular lead screw and rear cover to replace the ones you sell with the attachment.

Oh, thanks for the heads up. Maybe if I do sell it I can work out a trade for the parts they wont need anymore.
 
I asked that guy a question on eBay once and he ripped my head apart. He buys and sells a lot of South Bends on there. It's at $800 right now so he might take less.

He states don't expect much. That's keyword for junk.
 
Pass. That thing is completely disassembled. If you are not an expert, how would you know if something critical or really rare and expensive is missing from the pile o parts. If you were a Sheldon expert it could be a good way to get a deal.
 
I would grab the Sheldon.
I am partial to them and that one is identical to mine with the added bonus of the L spindle.

When they are right they are incredibly sweet little lathes, think of it as being midway between a 10l and 13" SB.

it's all there, broken down to its major assemblies so you can see everything.
the gears are all standard 16DP
They are very easy to work on if needed. They have no felts, they have ball bearings and oiling points all over.

Pay attention to the apron worm and wheel and check the clutch action, just put the worm in the apron, insert lead screw and turn it by hand, check the halfnuts.


I may even still have all the documentation if you buy it.
 
I would grab the Sheldon.
I am partial to them and that one is identical to mine with the added bonus of the L spindle.

When they are right they are incredibly sweet little lathes, think of it as being midway between a 10l and 13" SB.

it's all there, broken down to its major assemblies so you can see everything.
the gears are all standard 16DP
They are very easy to work on if needed. They have no felts, they have ball bearings and oiling points all over.

Pay attention to the apron worm and wheel and check the clutch action, just put the worm in the apron, insert lead screw and turn it by hand, check the halfnuts.


I may even still have all the documentation if you buy it.

I picked up the sheldon today. Man that thing was so much more substantial then I expected. It was apart, but everything was there. It was just me and the owner trying to get the stand onto my dodge 3/4 ton and without even trying I just went right to harbor freight and picked up a 2 ton engine hoist (cheap insurance, I'd rather have a engine lift then a hernia or broken bone or damaged lathe.) Also I didn't need to call in any favors to help unload it when I got it home.

Just about everything I need to get started is there, Minus a VFD, a QCTP and a Jacobs chuck. I'm sure this topic has been beat to death but I saw some reasonably priced stuff on ebay and amazon. Do I need to spend $500 on an aloris QCTP or will a $200 set do? Will an import no-name VFD work well enough or should I look for Mitsubishi/siemens/hitachi vfd?

Basically I could have paid $800 for a SB 10" and gotten no accessories, with only the accessories, I have 2 chucks, a drawbar, collet lever, steady rest and live and dead center. Which is probably just about worth the $800 I paid for everything. Thanks @iwananew10k, I really appreciate your input.
 
If you go with an import tool holder I'd at least go with Phase 2 and not with Schars. Keep your eyes on ebay, I've bought several Aloris AXA QCTP for $150-200, some even came with holders for that price. You just have to be quick about it and check often.
 








 
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