What's new
What's new

Ball Bearing Dial Upgrade Question

xplodee

Hot Rolled
Joined
Oct 14, 2013
Location
Allentown, PA
Hi All-

I have a 10L with taper attachment and I am in the process of installing thrust bearings. I already have the sliding lead screw assembly done and am no preparing to do the handwheel assembly.

My question is: is the brass bushing that sits between the handwheel and the sleeve critical for this mechanism to work best, or can I just pre-load the graduated dial instead, and omit the brass bushing entirely from the design?

I will probably just go with the brass bushing because it seems a better way of doing it, but i wanted to ask the group about it first.

Thank you,

T
 
Ill post some pics tomorrow.

A separate and more simple question:

Does your handwheel sleeve incorporate bronze bushings or does the screw rotate against the steel sleeve itself?
 
Thank you!

For my first post, i am specifically referring to part number 14 on page 38. Since i am converting plain dials, mine does not have this. I will add this part, it seems worth it to me versus any other method.

For my second question, worth it to add some bronze bushings to the front and read of the cross slide bushing?
 
the OD of part #14 is ~.5" - if you have plain type construction you would have to bore out your dial to do it like SB did.

Is that the plan?
 
the OD of part #14 is ~.5" - if you have plain type construction you would have to bore out your dial to do it like SB did.

Is that the plan?

Thats correct. But dont forget i have dials/screws/bushings made by Brian Miller. They are basically large versions of the south bend plain dials and im adding ball thrust bearings to both CF and compound assemblies. Im improving where ever possible.
 
Maybe this thread would help? It's really for a 9" but still applies in principle,in your case you will not need the bronze inserts as I'm sure miller did a good job.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/making-new-cross-slide-acme-screw-150571/

Yes sir, this thread is great and I went over it a lot last night. Thats what caused me to stick with the bronze flanged part (pn 14) and ask about bronze bushings within the main bushing/sleeve (tex added them).

I think youre right that Brian's work is very straight and with excellent precision so i dont believe that bronze bushings would be necessary but i always prefer a bronze/steel interface versus two steels in a wear type situation, when possible.

Ill likely omit bronze bushings in this case. Just doesnt seem too necessary and if it wears then i can add them later :)
 
Here is another take.
This was done before I refined the process so there is a bit of overkill.:)

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...ss-feed-repair-replace-239577/?highlight=Wide

Hadnt seen your thread before, thank you! Seems like you added the bronze bushings ;) do you feel they were important? I really prefer two bushings over one continuous bushing.

Nice thinking on the screw collar for setting preload. I wont follow suit (too much work! Ill just pin it) but its damn nice.
 
Got the cross feed dial fully bushed with ball thrust bearings. loving it. Very smooth and much easier to dial in precise movements without relying on the old back of the hand tap on the hand wheel. I didn't take any pictures of the process, but in short:

932 bronze bushings inserted into the taper attachment bushing
boston gear thrust bearings front and rear of the taper attachment bushing with spring washer and lock nut for pre-load
boston gear thrust bearings front and rear on splined half of feed screw
932 bronze flanged bushing pinned into front side of splined half of feed screw
1.5thou clearance between dial and handwheel


Untitled by Tim Marks, on Flickr


Untitled by Tim Marks, on Flickr


Untitled by Tim Marks, on Flickr


T
 








 
Back
Top