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Bed Leveling

RocketSled

Cast Iron
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Location
Parker, Co
I'm slowly working my way down the list fo things to do and aquire in this hobby and it's time to buy feet for the lathe.

I don't have a machineist's level, but I _do_ have a 6 foot carpenter's level. (don't laugh)

I'm wondering if I can't improve it's accuracy by extending the bubble a couple feet out off the bed.

</font><blockquote>code:</font><hr /><pre style="font-size:x-small; font-family: monospace;"> ========bubble========
^ ^
Bed</pre>[/QUOTE]I'd certainly think it'd be good enough till I reach 'machinists level' on my list. (next up is 'nail down the mill', 'get something better than HSS blanks' and 'buy clamping kit for mill' so it's a couple months out)

Any thoughts?
 
I have a 6" machinist's level I'll sell ya cheap. It looks and works just like my Starrett but doesn't have a name on it. Adjustable so it can be calibrated. Came with an old SB I picked up 15 years ago. $25 and it's yours. Shipping included.
 
$25.00 Sounds like a deal to me...
I won't laugh about the carpenter level, I have leveled machines with a glass of water before(short term only). However it is not recommended... Extending a carpenter level off the base will not increase the accuracy in fact you'll likely decrease (depending on the level).
I would suggest getting access to a Machinist level. Long term, you'll not be sorry. Course you didn't mention the type and size of the lathe.
 
It's a 10 heavy...
I used to own a 10 light. Now I've got an A9.

Crazy-Eyes.gif
 
Well, I can't say as I've tried picking it up...I made sure I lifted with my knees with removing the headstock for painting tho. ;)
 
Resolution is so much greater with a machinist level . I leveled my bench with a high quality 3 foot carpenters level (Stabila) and when I put my 12 machinist level on it the bubble was over half way out of the center section. A piece of paper will move the bubble 1/8 inch. They're no comparison, but I wouldn't want to try to level kitchen cabinets with a machinist level.

[ 11-07-2006, 10:15 PM: Message edited by: cooncatbob ]
 
Mike,

Once you get your lathe bed all nice and level, be sure to follow up with the Two-Collar Test, as described on page 16 of "How To Run A Lathe". This is the acid test of how well the bedways are aligned with the spindle. Be sure to use a sharp tool, and take a very light cut when performing this test.

The bar that you make up for the Two-Collar Test can be center drilled at each end and used to check the alignment of the centers, as described on page 51 of the above-mentioned publication.

Paula
 
Waterlogged If you still have the machinist's level I will buy it. Please email or PM me. Thank you in advance. Verne
 
Paula That's on the list of things to do. ;)

I'd assume material doesn't matter? I've got aluminum available, the Steel I have I apparently don't have the skills to turn well yet.

VerneSorry, guy, I think I beat you to the punch.
 
Could you please describe in more detail the two collar test? I have just anchored my 10K to the floor and have been playing with getting it level. No Machine level at my disposal. I did put a 40" piece of round stock in and adjusted the bed so there was NO taper being cut in the 40" distance. I'm not sure how to set/check headstock and tailstock alignment. Yes, I'm new at this whole thing. Thanks for the help.
 
I'd assume material doesn't matter? I've got aluminum available, the Steel I have I apparently don't have the skills to turn well yet.
Mike, though the instructions in HTRAL specify a "bar of steel", I don't see why you couldn't use aluminum. The main requirements are that the test bar resist deflection under cutting pressure, and that it be capable of a clean, light cut, so as to minimize tool forces. I would recommend using a tempered alloy, such as 6061-T6, at least 1.5" dia.

Paula
 
I did put a 40" piece of round stock in and adjusted the bed so there was NO taper being cut in the 40" distance.
Actually, you only adjust the bed to align the ways with the spindle axis. You adjust the tailstock set-over to align the centers. Do the tests in the following order:

1) Check the spindle axis alignment to the bed using the 2-collar test, and adjust the bed accordingly.

2) Check the alignment of the headstock and tailstock centers, and adjust the tailstock set-over accordingly.

Could you please describe in more detail the two collar test?
Here's the relevant passage from the How To Run A Lathe book:

2COLLAR.jpg


By using a bit of common sense, you can determine which way the tailstock end of the bed needs to be rotated. If the collar closest to the tailstock end is smaller than the headstock collar, then the bed needs to be rotated toward the front (CCW, viewed from the tailstock end), and vice versa.

Once you've got the spindle aligned with the bed, then you can check the alignment of the centers. Here's how HTRAL describes the procedure:

2COLLAR1.jpg


You might want to use a dial caliper or mike in lieu of the spring calipers shown in the illustration.

Paula
 
FFS, For the price of shipping, and a promise to return same, I will loan you my 18 inch machinist level. It will take 15 minutes to level your lathe. Buy plastic shim stock .030 .0125 .005, one each. After the lathe is level follow the directions outlined by Paula. Email me if interested in the loaner.

my wheels don't slow me down
 
T H A N K Y O U P A U L A !!!

I was gonna go nuts if I had to transcribe
from memory how to do the two-collar test,
one more time.

FWIW, I think that test is better than
any precison level for setting up a home
shop machine.

Jim
 
I am grateful for the time and effort Paula puts into this forum, Thank you! I will do as you have suggested and report the outcome. Thanks again for all the help!
 








 
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