Bringing home my first metal lathe - 1945 SB 10L.

I've been a member for a few years, but very inactive, so I guess this post will serve as an introduction as well...

I've wanted to purchase and rehab a SB lathe, and subsequently learn how to use it, for around 6 years. Timing never worked out, as I was moving around the east coast every 1-2 years during that time and my wood shop and tools were in storage. Now that I'm settled in a location for the foreseeable future, I started watching the CL ads and various auctions.

I found an auction in Ontario, just across the bridge from my location in Detroit, that had listed a 10" South Bend. I could see it was in fairly rough shape, but it had a few of the features I wanted and seeing how the auction was in Canadian dollars, I put an autobid in, trying to justify to myself that if I won, it would actually be cheaper than the price tag looked . I won the lot for less than my autobid, which came out to ~$380 USD.

So I hitched up my small trailer, loaded my engine puller and a few straps, and crossed the Ambassador Bridge.



15 minutes after crossing the bridge, this is what I arrived to.


So I first removed the easy parts and piled these things up to put in bins.

I was able to back my trailer up fairly close to the lathe. To move it near the trailer, I lagged a 2x4 under the cabinet and placed it on a 1000lbs dolly. To lift the lathe, I ran a strap under the two casting ribs in the bed and slid the tailstock and carriage as far to the right as I could. It was still very unbalanced, but I was able to stand on the trailer and lift the heavy base end up about 6" to clear the trailer deck.




It was easy to slide if forward once the heavy end was up on the trailer.


I strapped it once over the bed and used two straps around the base and legs.

Some observations - Overall, I think I got my money's worth.

Good:

• Everything seems to move smoothly and freely.
• The 6" Cushman chuck appears serviceable
• No broken teeth on any gears ( that were readily visible)
• Enco tool post
• Almost complete taper attachment (missing tie rod and tie rod bracket)
• Collet rack is present
• Drum switch
• Large dial on compound
• Not shown (a number of jacobs chucks, 10 Hardinge 5C collets, various other tools and tool holders)

Bad:

• Ways have ~70 years of wear.
• Broken tension handle.
• Missing some parts:
  • Taper attachment tie rod / bracket
  • Carriage lock bracket
  • Compound handle
  • Threading dial
  • Micrometer carriage stop
  • Collet sleeve & closer

I haven't measure the play in the spindle yet, so this remains to be seen - no noticeable play when I move it with my hands, however. I'm not terribly worried about the ways - I have never ran a metal lathe and I will be using this as a learning tool, so if it proves to be accurate enough for my needs, great!

I have a new leeson 1hp 3ph motor that will power this lathe, so I'm not worried about the included motor (it looks like they were changing bearings and gave up).

Some pics:

A few more pictures:

Braze the tension handle or try and buy a new one?


Dirty, but intact.


What is this bracket/stop for?


Spindle pic - chuck was easy to remove.


Serial Number card scan

looks like a good lathe , did not see it on local craigslist. Be sure the headstock is getting oil at both ends.

Ot: I have been thinking about off- lifting deer blinds .. About 500 lbs and on a 7’ pallet .. That lift looks like it might do.

*Did you make the extensions at the foot and high beam? Think it will lift 500 perhaps 700 with the pallet.

PS. Guys don’t rob the thread about the lift likely I may start another with my off loading issues.
Buck

You actually have a taper clamp. The collet rack mounts to a casting that is identical to what the taper attachment clamp is, except the collet clamp got one extra hole in it. The factory taper clamp also had babbit in there where the rod passed through. The rod itself you can make easily enough, its just a length of rod with the ends turned down and threaded. If you can't find a drawing anywhere with the dimensions, I can see if mine will come off to make a drawing from.

Caesars0331 said:

What is this bracket/stop for?
View attachment 189166

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Caesars0331 -

I asked the same question once, same kind of picture of my lathe. Ted (SBlatheman) was kind enough to answer in post number 19 of this thread - http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/my-new-70-year-old-heavy-10-a-292135/


Here is a copy of his answer:

How many of you have wondered why the tie rod bracket has one side that hangs down further on one side than the other???

The bracket(stop) in Dale's third picture is why. The tie rod brkt will hit it and keep the taper attachment from crashing into whatever is in the back of the headstock. The 10', 13', 14 1/2, and 16' had them at one time. It was deemed to be unnecessary.

Could not copy his picture from the other thread but you can see it there.

Looks like you got yourself a good lathe there - have fun with it. Should note yours and mine were only about a month apart in production and around 2,000 numbers apart.

Dale

michiganbuck said:

Be sure the headstock is getting oil at both ends.

Click to expand...

Will do.

michiganbuck said:

*Did you make the extensions at the foot and high beam? Think it will lift 500 perhaps 700 with the pallet.

Click to expand...

No, I didn't - bought it new about 20 years ago from Murray's Auto Parts in Dearborn, Mi (now an OReilly Auto) and didn't change a thing. That lift is one tool that has certainly been invaluable moving my other tools around the country.

gadget73 said:

You actually have a taper clamp. The collet rack mounts to a casting that is identical to what the taper attachment clamp is, except the collet clamp got one extra hole in it. The factory taper clamp also had babbit in there where the rod passed through. The rod itself you can make easily enough, its just a length of rod with the ends turned down and threaded. If you can't find a drawing anywhere with the dimensions, I can see if mine will come off to make a drawing from.

Click to expand...

Very good info - thanks!
This is on my list of things to do in the coming few months; I really appreciate the offer and will take you up on it if I need to.

duckfarmer27 said:

Caesars0331 -

I asked the same question once, same kind of picture of my lathe. Ted (SBlatheman) was kind enough to answer in post number 19 of this thread - http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/my-new-70-year-old-heavy-10-a-292135/

How many of you have wondered why the tie rod bracket has one side that hangs down further on one side than the other???

The bracket(stop) in Dale's third picture is why. The tie rod brkt will hit it and keep the taper attachment from crashing into whatever is in the back of the headstock. The 10', 13', 14 1/2, and 16' had them at one time. It was deemed to be unnecessary.

Click to expand...

Looks like you got yourself a good lathe there - have fun with it. Should note yours and mine were only about a month apart in production and around 2,000 numbers apart.

Dale

Click to expand...

Thanks for the link and info, Dale. I'm looking forward to getting this lathe up and running - I'll post pictures along the way. Do you have pictures of your 1945 anywhere besides the above mentioned thread?

Caesars0331 said:

Do you have pictures of your 1945 anywhere besides the above mentioned thread?

Click to expand...

Caesars0331 -

Only pictures of my lathe are on that link. It is the next item in line to get torn down and cleaned up. Trouble is this retirement gig is way too busy and it keeps getting bumped. Have to finish a bookcase for my grandson, then maybe.... Then I'll shoot a couple more pics.

Dale

There's 70 years of wear, and there's70 years of wear.
Since it must be heavy enough to have caused you concern in the first place, Is it mostly right up at the headstock? I'd get it to where it would run and lubed up /leveled, and turn a test bar to see to where/how much tool drop it might have.

Of course, whether it's "too much"depends on the type of work you plan to use it for. Not all (in fact, fewer still around unrestored and getting harder and harder to find) are worthy of the TIME and money; re-grinds are in the thousands $$, and in the case of an earlier single-tumbler may be more suited to a part-out if the ways are too clapped out for precision work and able to justify a full-blown resto. Hope it turns out to be a worthy machine for you. Mine was a breeze compared to many (9A long-bed) needing very few parts replaced...Sometimes you get lucky! Keep us posted.