the end of one journey and a new start

Ok so here itis the end of the restoration journey in that today i made chips with the lathe i have been restoring for the last four months. With two full time jobs it has not been easy to find time to play but hell if i wasn't determined to get to this point. My son says that cold coffee is a sure sign of "shit getting done" Well i have left a lot of half full cups of coffee laying about the house. I told all of you that the next pics i posted would be of the south bend model 9a lathe covered in chips so here you go.

The before photo

The after photos


Now I just need to learn how to use it to the fullest. Wish me luck LOL.

I'll be back and looking to pick brains.

Rob

Outstanding!!!!

You might find these links interesting or useful
First go to Tony’s site, Machine Tool Archive
Then start with these.
You can find HTRAL at WEWilliams - South Bend Lathe Library
And,
http://campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_1of2.pdf and
http://campkahler.com/files/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_SB_2of2.pdf
Manual of Lathe Operations and Machinists Tables, Atlas Press Co.
http://www.bbssystem.com/manuals/Lathe-Tutorial.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBYQmaeI-VU Watch all of the Tubalcain videos.
MIT TechTV ? Videos
http://www.archive.org/details/textbookofadvanc00smituoft
http://www.bbssystem.com/manuals/Navy-Machinery-Repairman.pdf
See HTRAL at The SBL Workshop
Virtual Machine Shop
http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm
General Knurling Information
www.metalillness.com :: View Forum - Machine and Tool Manuals, Books, and Videos
http://opensourcemachine.org/files/US Army machinist course - Lathe Operations OD1645 WW.pdf
http://www.webpal.org/SAFE/aaarecovery/5_simple_technology/Milling Machine Operations.pdf
And don’t forget to download your FREE copy of Machinery’s handbook. Edition 5. http://books.google.com/books?id=VkEYAAAAYAAJ

Nice job, have fun, Mike

nice paint job. Did you do anything to improve the machine's accuracy?

You may discover your drum switch is in a precarious spot. Get some big ol' stringers caught up in the chuck whizzing around. You won't want to grab that switch.

I am admiring you for going through a very labor intensive project. I ended up cleaning my lathe, replacing lead screws on crosslide and compound, felts, etc.
I even painted some of the parts but i did not have time to complete it. That lathe was a very precise machine especially after setting it up and adjusting everything. It cut within .0005" TIR 4" from the chuck, despite the fact that the bed had reasonable signs of wear. I think, given the lathe was not abused you can get it to run and cut beautifully if you fiddle with it long enough.
All the best.
letlevski

perhaps, but it is in a spot that south bend used on many of their setups for far bigger machines like the 13 and 16 inch lathes. i don't think i would ever let a stringer get that big. lol

if you read through the original post you will find that this lathe was the poster child for abuse of machinery. hardened grease and swarf packed into every gear, the main screw was tore up, bull gear broken and welded to the headstock pulley. headstock pulley welded to the spindle. back gears broken. Counter shaft handle broken, parts missing, rust everywhere, half nuts worn to a razors edge, oil tube crushed in the gears inside the apron/ carriage.... yep this baby was an object lesson on how not to treat a lathe.

lol first i have to run it to see how far out things are and so far i have merely done a backing plate to mount the three jaw chuck to. I will be working on the accuracy soon though.thanks

You can add a stop button to the front someplace that is easy for the small motor.

A simple light switch in series with the lathe, just wire it to an outlet on the bench then plug lathe into that outlet.

Now you have a master switch and if something gets nasty just flip the master.

moonlight machine said:

nice paint job. Did you do anything to improve the machine's accuracy?

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I'd have probably masked the feed chart before paint, but that's just me.

Cole2534 said:

I'd have probably masked the feed chart before paint, but that's just me.

Click to expand...

i did not paint over the feed chart i have not installed the new one yet

Tony Quiring said:

You can add a stop button to the front someplace that is easy for the small motor.

A simple light switch in series with the lathe, just wire it to an outlet on the bench then plug lathe into that outlet.

Now you have a master switch and if something gets nasty just flip the master.

Click to expand...

i like that idea im going to use it

If a "restoration" is claimed, I like to see the scraping and bearing fits. Paint is optional in a machine tool restoration.

Nonetheless, if you are doing a cosmetic refurb, it is easy to make those endcovers sparkle
Sand them out fair startign with fairly coarse grit, and then work through the grits down to scotch brite, or Mother's polish, if you prefer.

I do some machine rebuilds (rescrape, re-align), but seldom paint. To do it right takes time and effort that (for me) could better be applied to accurizing other machines and assemblies. But if individual castings come off easily, polish can make a big visual difference on an otherwise shabby looking machine with a minimum of effort.



I keep threatening to polish the top cover as well.
The lathe is apart and nearing finish of a rescrape, so maybe it's time.

smt

robert102653 said:

i did not paint over the feed chart i have not installed the new one yet

Click to expand...

Lol, good!

stephen thomas said:

If a "restoration" is claimed, I like to see the scraping and bearing fits. Paint is optional in a machine tool restoration.

Nonetheless, if you are doing a cosmetic refurb, it is easy to make those endcovers sparkle
Sand them out fair startign with fairly coarse grit, and then work through the grits down to scotch brite, or Mother's polish, if you prefer.

I do some machine rebuilds (rescrape, re-align), but seldom paint. To do it right takes time and effort that (for me) could better be applied to accurizing other machines and assemblies. But if individual castings come off easily, polish can make a big visual difference on an otherwise shabby looking machine with a minimum of effort.

I keep threatening to polish the top cover as well.
The lathe is apart and nearing finish of a rescrape, so maybe it's time.

smt

Click to expand...

I don't know what your definition of a restoration is, and perhaps taking my lathe from a non working, broken, rust congealed, heap of parts to a working machine again does not qualify in your eyes, so what ever you call it, I am happy that I now have a working lathe. And no I am not finished. I now have it working and have produced a few parts for my other work. I am not finished even with the cosmetic things. As as I said I am looking to make it function even more accurately. As to scraping hell I don't know anything about doing that...yet. It was my understanding that you need to know what you are doing to re-scrape a lathe properly, and as stated in the original post I am a NEWBIE. I took machine shop in high school 41 years ago and haven't touched a lathe since then, till about four months ago when I got this lathe. I am a fabricator not a machinist.
your elitist attitude does not help me nor anyone else on this forum. I am trying to learn from other people on this forum. I don't need elitist critics looking down their nose at me, nor does anyone else.
PS hell of a nice job on that polishing by the way.

robert102653 said:

I don't know what your definition of a restoration is, and perhaps taking my lathe from a non working, broken, rust congealed, heap of parts to a working machine again does not qualify in your eyes, so what ever you call it, I am happy that I now have a working lathe. And no I am not finished. I now have it working and have produced a few parts for my other work. I am not finished even with the cosmetic things. As as I said I am looking to make it function even more accurately. As to scraping hell I don't know anything about doing that...yet. It was my understanding that you need to know what you are doing to re-scrape a lathe properly, and as stated in the original post I am a NEWBIE. I took machine shop in high school 41 years ago and haven't touched a lathe since then, till about four months ago when I got this lathe. I am a fabricator not a machinist.
your elitist attitude does not help me nor anyone else on this forum. I am trying to learn from other people on this forum. I don't need elitist critics looking down their nose at me, nor does anyone else.

Click to expand...

I think most members here will agree there's a continuum of "restoration" work that runs from a crappy paint job done by a machine reseller at the low end to a full disassembly, replace bearings, regrind, rescrape, rewire, repaint, and reassembly at the other end. My own "restoration" project, currently ongoing, has all the above sans grinding and scraping the ways and mating surfaces. The only reason I'm not doing that work while it's all apart is because I'm not yet qualified to do it myself and I can't afford to have it done by someone who is--yet. If the lathe will serve my needs in all other respects and I decide to keep it forever, I will tear it back down and have the bed ground, etc., as soon as budget permits (which is primarily driven by my higher priority need for a knee mill). In the meantime, I plan to have a LOT of fun using it with slightly worn ways and really nice paint to keep the rust at bay. I may even make a few bucks on the side doing work for others once I learn the machine's strengths and weaknesses, then use the proceeds to pay for the regrind.

Nice job on this phase of your restoration, Robert, and I hope we get to see more of whatever you end up making with your machine.

thomasutley said:

I think most members here will agree there's a continuum of "restoration" work that runs from a crappy paint job done by a machine reseller at the low end to a full disassembly, replace bearings, regrind, rescrape, rewire, repaint, and reassembly at the other end. My own "restoration" project, currently ongoing, has all the above sans grinding and scraping the ways and mating surfaces. The only reason I'm not doing that work while it's all apart is because I'm not yet qualified to do it myself and I can't afford to have it done by someone who is--yet. If the lathe will serve my needs in all other respects and I decide to keep it forever, I will tear it back down and have the bed ground, etc., as soon as budget permits (which is primarily driven by my higher priority need for a knee mill). In the meantime, I plan to have a LOT of fun using it with slightly worn ways and really nice paint to keep the rust at bay. I may even make a few bucks on the side doing work for others once I learn the machine's strengths and weaknesses, then use the proceeds to pay for the regrind.

Nice job on this phase of your restoration, Robert, and I hope we get to see more of whatever you end up making with your machine.

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thank you Thomas for your kind words. like you the only things I did not do was the scraping I cant say anything about bearings because this old lathe did not have any per se. just oil felts that I replaced and metal to metal surfaces, steel to cast iron that is. With a few oil grooves thrown in. Every part was separated from every other part, fixed, and put back together with broken parts repaired or replaced Now the whole thing works. Oh wait I did replace and update the thrust bearing on the end of the spindle lol. In any case like I said I am happy with what is now a working lathe. I will go through it for better functionality and accuracy at a later date I am sure. For now it works and that is a huge step forward from when I got it. Thanks again Tom.

I take it that polished aluminum covers do nothing for you.

I don't know what your definition of a restoration is,

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Not my definition. As is routinely pointed out by the site owner: this is a professional site. There are hobbyist sites where everyone can make up their own definition. The definition of "restoration" or "rebuild" of a machine tool is to bring it back to original performance, alignments, and geometry.

I think you have done a remarkable job of cleaning up, repairing and refurbishing your lathe and that it will do you in good stead. Read (google) "In praise of junkers", a well known treatise on how well a person can work with a well worn lathe. Note that I am merely intending to add to your references and resources, not saying anything about your personal lathe.

I am an elitist: I don't care what your machine tools look like or how "accurate" they are....the only thing that matters to me is do you use them to do the work, and does the work progress in quality, interest, and detail.

Whether it offends you or not, I will re-affirm a personal preference of mine to spend time accurizing a machine or making a new accessory or tooling, than painting. I'm kind of in awe of people who have the time to paint and do it well. Paint and polish are the luxury, ("elitist" ?) aspect of the machine tool trade, rather than the essential.

It is pretty routine on this site to tell newbies that they are using the terms "restore" or "rebuild" incorrectly especially when they barely understand the parameters of alignments nor the process for checking and establishing them. Get over it. You did a fine job of cleaning, reassembly & painting, now keep moving up.

smt

" Paint is optional in a machine tool restoration."

But cleaning, isn't.

As with most things in life, the prep work is more than half the job. Once you clean the
snot out of a machine (doing so requires taking it apart) then a quick slather of rustoleum
with a brush is quick work.

If you pick the right used machines, they're not worn - just filthy.