First Lathe SB 13 - How'd I Do?

ja762 · Jan 28, 2018

I recently purchased my first lathe. Never having used a lathe, or even seen one being used (outside of YT videos), it was challenging to make an educated buying decision. I wanted something with some tooling, since I wouldn't even know where to begin as far as buying tooling, but that just made it more difficult for me to figure out what a fair price would be. After doing some research, and passing on a number of different lathes, I finally pulled the trigger on one. I spent more than I was hoping to, but it seems to be in good condition and came with a lot of tooling. I was hoping to get some opinions on what some of you guys think the package was worth (Chicago area).
It's a South Bend 13" made around 1960. It came with the taper and milling attachments, Themac J35 toolpost grinder, Brown and Sharpe magnetic chuck, phase converter, and everything pictured.
The faceplate and 2nd steady rest are for a SB 16. I will be selling those and putting the money back into the lathe. Aside from a faceplate and a 3-jaw chuck, any thoughts on what else I should be looking to get? Edit: He threw the parts for the 16 in b/c he had them laying around and had no use for them, the idea being I could sell them and recoup some money. The 13 didn't come with a faceplate, but I'm looking to find one or possibly try making one.
Any input would be appreciated. More pics next post...

ja762 · Jan 28, 2018

More pics..

m-lud · Jan 28, 2018

Sometimes paying more is smarter. The previous was most likely an experienced lathe user. So you are getting the benefit of his educated purchase decisions.
You should not need to buy anything more until you are experienced yourself.
Very nice setup to start out with.
A lot of these lathe's come bare bones.
Utube to learn from and the forum for specific questions will get you there.
I see at least 5,000 in value maybe more. I'm not your most experienced lathe user but know the cost of all your tooling.
Don't forget your how to run a lathe book.

m-lud · Jan 28, 2018

It was my reading mistake. I edited my post about the 16. Your post was clear.

toolnut · Jan 28, 2018

The 13" SBL is a good home shop lathe and a very good one to learn how to run a lathe. There is even South Bend books to tell a d show you how.
I have a 10L, 3 of the 13" , one 14.5". I think you did extremely well with the tooling. I suggest learni g how to works with a 4 jaw chuck before looking for a 3 jaw. It is very hard to find a used 3 jaw worth the cost to ship it. A 3 jaw is not a precision chuck as most new users presume. It works good for Making the complete part from one set up.
I see you have a 4 jaw chuck and a collet tube. These should be good for any initial projects.
Bruce

ja762 · Jan 28, 2018

I passed on a bare bones 13 a while back. It came with absolutely nothing, not even a steady rest. The guy selling this one was a retired machinist, worked out of his garage, and seems to have bought mainly good quality tooling. I figured, as you said, I was getting the benefit of his educated purchase decisions. He was lamenting the fact that he paid $275 for an Albrecht keyless chuck, when a $75 Jacobs would have worked just as well, "But no, I've got to have the best" he said. Sounds like my kind of guy.
Now if I can just come up with some money for the milling machine and band saw he's wanting to sell....

ja762 · Jan 28, 2018

Bruce, Three 13's? Any more and we may have to get you some intervention for that hoarding problem :scratchchin:

I downloaded SB's "How To Run a Lathe" book. Lots of valuable info. YouTube is an awesome source of knowledge also.
I am planning on making some things (of which I'll be making more than one) which don't require a high level of precision. I figured having a three jaw would be a time-saver for those jobs. I was hoping to find one locally, but I'm in no big hurry. I'm trying to learn everything I can before making any purchases I may regret. That makes this forum, and guys like you, invaluable to me. Thnx

m-lud · Jan 28, 2018

A lathe without a milling can limit to a large extent what you do. Especially if building one off parts. Repair pieces
I have been with a mill without my big lath working. Same thing.

John Strange · Jan 28, 2018

Having everything you need is a really nice way to start off. Even if you paid a bit more than you set out to, every little bit of tooling can easily nickle and dime you to death, and by "Nickle and Dime" I mean like $20 to $50 or more, plus time and shipping costs. I'd say sell the 16" pieces, and put the money into a new belt, a machinists level, and however you plan to power up.

Rudd · Jan 28, 2018

You'll find getting things centered in the four jaw much easier and faster using *two* chuck keys at the same time on opposing jaws.

Technical Ted · Jan 28, 2018

Nice score! You've got plenty to work with for a while. Have some fun and learn how to run it a little before thinking you need to buy more. You may though need some measuring tools if you don't have any; like a set of mikes and/or calipers, dial indicator, etc..

Ted

DanMc77 · Jan 29, 2018

Ja672: You were wondering how well you did: For comparison, last summer I bought an SB13 in very nice condition like yours, yours is probably in better shape, and I paid $2K here in MA with zero tooling, not even a chuck key.

You got just about everything you will ever need with that machine, but I don't think you need that 4-jaw chuck so I'll be willing to take it off your hands. LOL.

Looks to me (FWIW) like you got another $3-4K in tooling on top of the value of the lathe, if you tried to buy everything individually.

Be careful about condensation and rust if you are keeping the machine out in your garage.

One final note: NEVER take your hands off the chuck key when it's in the chuck. You could make your dentist rich (or worse) if you turn on the machine with the key in there.

ripperj · Jan 29, 2018

Like the others said that’s a great score. Definitely read up and make sure the belt tension lever is released the first time you fire it up( till you know it starts and stops properly)

Safety is always priority one, not trying to treat you like a kid, but the hazards are different that you sound like you are used to.
No loose clothes, eye protection, it’s a smallish lathe(easy to spin by hand) I always make sure the chuck jaws are clear of the tooling, top slide and cross slide if it’s even close to clearing.

Things come apart quick with un-balanced loads (usually 4 jaw or face plate work)so make it balanced(best) or turtle speed

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

ronlyke · Jan 29, 2018

Also---be sure you understand the bull gear pin issue. (Back gear engaged--pin withdrawn)

John Strange · Jan 29, 2018

ripperj said:
I always make sure the chuck jaws are clear of the tooling, top slide and cross slide if it’s even close to clearing.

Along with the eye protection, no loose clothing or jewelry, and never leave the key in the chuck, Ripper J's is a great bit of cautionary advice that goes without saying for the initiated, yet can easily get overlooked when starting out.

When setting up to cut, make it a habit to spin the chuck by hand to make sure it’s jaws clear everything (Cross Slide, Compound, Tool Post)in their left most point (closest to the chuck) of cutting path travel.

You have a micrometer stop that you can loosen, slide up against the carriage once everything is clear, then tighten down to provide you a hard stop that will help keep you from crashing.

ja762 · Jan 29, 2018

Dan,
Thanks for the reply, and the warning. Don't laugh too loud, I am putting the large four jaw chuck up for sale. It's too large to be of any practical use on my 13, which explains why it looks like it's never been used. As it turns out, I can actually put a larger piece in the smaller chuck w/o the jaws hitting the ways. If you have a 16, it would probably be perfect.
I am keeping it in an unheated garage, and had some issues at first. Now I throw some towels over it, put a plastic bag over the chuck, have light bulbs in the underdrive and up under the carriage, and put the custom cover on that I made for it. So far it's worked out well.

m-lud · Jan 29, 2018

Never become too comfortable with any machine. Utube has some unfortunate victims of not respecting lathe,s.
I had to help get a guys arm free from a printing press. Hand smashed and forearm muscle pushed up to he's elbow. He kept his arm but was disabled. 1976 and I was 20 and never forgot chucky,s screams. Sorry about being graphic. Machines are unforgiving.

ja762 · Jan 29, 2018

ripperj Thanks for the warnings. In my experience, people who get offended at being reminded about safety are often the ones who need to be reminded the most. I worked in an industrial setting much of my life (Building and painting bridges, working in steel mills and refineries, operating and repairing heavy equipment etc.) and it's pretty clear to me that one of these units can ruin your life in a heartbeat if you're not careful. I appreciate all of advice I can get.
I noticed after I took the pic that the belt lever was down, I figured I would get some grief for it.¯\_(ツ)_/¯

tobnpr · Jan 29, 2018

If it turns out to be a tight machine, I'd say $3-4k with the tooling.
Be sure to set it up correctly...was it rebuilt/felts replaced with the last decade? If not, that'll probably need to be done.
Once it's set up you'll be able to make some test cuts to better ascertain its mechanical condition and bed wear (it's gotta have some, but hopefully not excessive). Nice find- only seen one around here in the last year and it had the small spindle bore.

ja762 · Jan 29, 2018

mllud22 Sorry to hear about your experience. Coming from an industrial area, that sounds all too familiar. I've known far too many people who were injured and killed in industrial accidents. One of my friends got his hand and forearm stuck in a machine. Like your coworker they saved his hand, but it was seriously screwed-up. Another friend of mine got his hand stuck in a machine. He lost several fingers and completely lost his thumb. They took the remaining pieces of his fingers and constructed him a thumb. It looked weird, but it worked. I'm also sorry about being graphic, but people can't be reminded too much that, as you said, machines are unforgiving.

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