First time post, First time lathe owner

F

Fordperf393w

Plastic

Joined

Nov 3, 2012

Location

CT, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #1

Well, I have recently acquired a Model 34C 13"x 72" south bend lathe, and some time in its life had been retrofitted with a 4 speed gear box. My plans are to clean it up and give it a fresh coat of pait. That is where my troubles start. This being my first lathe, this is unfamiliar territory and I have not been able to find any information on disassembly. I would like to remove the apron and lead screw to gain access. Also. In the restoration process I would like to replace the leather belt to a continuous serpentine. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

 

I

iwananew10K

Diamond

Joined

Sep 12, 2010

Location

moscow,ohio

• Nov 4, 2012

• #2

i`m not sure you`ll find much info on the older SB`s like you have.
fortunately many here have older machines and have been down that road so they can probably help, but you will have to post pics of exactly what you have.

welcome to the forum!

 

K

kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #3

Old SBs are pretty self explanatory. The bolts are all exposed, etc. The apron unbolts from the saddle, remove the right leadscrew hanger, and slide the apron off the right end of the lathe.

The biggest problem you will have is taper pins. Once you have mangled a few of those, you will realize that cosmetics are not worth the frustration. Don't paint it. Oil it and use it.

allan

 

F

Fordperf393w

Plastic

Joined

Nov 3, 2012

Location

CT, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #4

Thanks for the information so far. Seems to be a simple machine. Where are the taper pins you speak of? Anything i should look out for upon removal of the spindle from the head stock? When re-assembling, is there a specific torque that is to be applied to the bearing caps?

 

K

kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #5

There are taper pins all over the machine. Handwheels, handles, collars, gears etc.

The operative point on the spindle is the clearance once assembled. Shims set the clearance, not the torque on the bolts.

See this file: http://www.wswells.com/data/howto/H-4.pdf but note that your machine probably has bronze box bearings and a soft spindle, so will have greater clearances, and probably a little thicker oil than these later machines. You would need to provide pics of the headstock to be sure.

allan

 

F

Fordperf393w

Plastic

Joined

Nov 3, 2012

Location

CT, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #6

Here is a pic of the head stock, let me kow if you need others

 

L

locoguy

Hot Rolled

Joined

Oct 17, 2004

Location

SE Ohio

• Nov 4, 2012

• #7

I have one about the same, looking at the headstock anyway. Old, but would not trade it for a modern lathe, no way. What is your serial number, on the right end of the bed? Mine is 7944.

locoguy

 

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kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #8

Wow- that lathe is a survivor. To have gone 90 years without someone slathering it in paint is highly unusual. I would clean the shiny spots, but I would not even consider painting that that. Its something you cannot undo.

allan

 

F

Fordperf393w

Plastic

Joined

Nov 3, 2012

Location

CT, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #9

It was slathered in purple house paint...., I tried to scrape it off, I want to try to get it looking original again. It was hideous. S/N is 25160, can I tell year of make from that number?. It is in amazing condition.

At a point in its life someone adapted a 4 speed turner uni-drive model T3. Any experience in these units? Seems likes some of the gears are not lining up with the detents on the case.

 

K

kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Nov 4, 2012

• #10

That serial is 1921/22.

 

R

rw1

Aluminum

Joined

Aug 2, 2012

Location

MO

• Nov 5, 2012

• #11

kitno455 said:

The biggest problem you will have is taper pins. Once you have mangled a few of those, you will realize that cosmetics are not worth the frustration. Don't paint it. Oil it and use it.

allan

Click to expand...

Heavy sigh....... Allan you speak much wisdom. I'm over halfway painted so must finish it now...

 

F

Fordperf393w

Plastic

Joined

Nov 3, 2012

Location

CT, USA

• Nov 12, 2012

• #12

So I have the lathe torn down for inspection and cleaning and i'm a bit concerned with the condition of the spindle bearings.

There are some pretty big grooves, is this acceptable? If not, source for replacements?

 

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kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Nov 12, 2012

• #13

Annular ridges and grooves are not really a problem on either the spindle or the bearing. The bearing surface looks fine.

The part that concerns me is the thrust surface on the end of the bearing, and that bit of bronze that's rolled over into the bore. I would remove that by hand. Then inspect the spindle itself for any adhered lumps or burrs.

Other than that, clean it, slap it back together, and make sure the spindle clearance is adequate, .0015 to .002.

allan

 

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nel2lar

Aluminum

Joined

Mar 19, 2012

Location

North Central Florida, USA

• Dec 11, 2012

• #14

Since you have broke it down as far as you have I would replace all the felt. You can buy it on E-bay, the cost includes a instruction book with easy instructions. Well worth the money.
Nelson Collar

 

K

kitno455

Titanium

Joined

Jul 9, 2010

Location

Virginia, USA

• Dec 12, 2012

• #15

There are basically no felts in this lathe, and Steve Brooks rebuild books do not cover this machine at all.

allan