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Handwheel leadscrew to SB 9

Aurelio Palma

Plastic
Joined
Dec 16, 2010
Location
Sao Paulo - Brazil
Leadscrew_end.jpgHello
I would like add a handwheel to my SB 9, but the end of leadscrew end inside the nut, so there is no enough space to conect a handwheel.

I found similar improvment to other lathes, but it was different from SB.
What the best way to add a handwheel?

Thank you.
Aurelio
 
I extended the leadscrews on both my 9A and 9C for this purpose. Made a short extension shaft drilled an inch (ish) from one end for a locating pin then pulled the leadscrew and drilled a matching locating pin hole in the end. Pushed the parts up together and carefully welded the joint. Spun the screw up in the lathe and showed it a file to to take the weld joint down far enough to go through the bearing and true things up. Had the results been more than a few thou out of true I'd have turned the joint and extension true. I made my extension a nice running fit in the bearing, you may prefer to take the extension down to a few thou under.

Pin was a moderate press fit in the holes, I had suitable "slightly over a standard drill size" pins in stock which worked out just fine. You may need to make a pin to suit your drills. My pin was probably around 1/4" diameter but this was over 30 years back so I no longer remember for sure.

If you don't fancy your welding skills high strength loctite on the pin and a metal filled epoxy, JB weld or similar at the butt joint between screw and extension should do just fine. Cross drilling both screw and extension for a dowel pin will make you feel better but if you use the stickum stuff properly it won't add any strength. Needle rollers from discarded bearings are a good source of small pins for that sort of cross drilling and location jobs.

Clive
 
People
Thanks.
Clive. The scenarios that you described help me a lot. I will follow this way.
Did you do your owner handwheel?
De point now is: How can I make precisely divisions aroud the handwheel if I do not have a dividing Head?

Good question Tommy ( about the porpuse).
I will use just to make grooves around the axis, but I thinh better I left someone more experient explain the possibilities where are applicable the leadscrew handwheel.
Thanks for all.
 
Assuming that your leadscrew is 8 TPI, you likely want 125 divisions. I am lazy. I would try to make the dial approximately 39mm in diameter, and wrap the first 12.5 cm of a metric tape measure around it, and attach with small drive screws. You would have to adjust the diameter to match the thickness of your tape.

allan
 
I'd "obtained" a couple of Myford hand wheels which did the job just fine and saved me cutting divisions.
If you do your own consider putting the divisions on a separate adjustable ring with locking screw so you can set-up the start or finish point when cutting longitudinal steps or up to shoulders. Where possible I like to pre-set my cuts so that 0 on the dial is the finishing point whatever axis, or machine, I'm using. Being a whole turn out is easily seen and working to pre-sets keeps you in the pro habit of doing it right or finding out why what you got wasn't what you set. Endless cut, measure 'n try cycles for the last thou or two are amateurish and burn valuable shop time.

Laser-printing a suitable scale, sticking in place and varnishing works pretty well. Do a bunch and change out every couple or three years when it gets tatty.

I mostly used mine to set the rod projections on a 6 way turret bed stop. One of my favourite accessories. Its so nice just to cut up to a stop and know you haven't gone too far when a component has several diameters. Mine has 6 1/4 (ish) rods but no calibrations so winding the handle to push a rod back into the desired place works well.

Clive
 








 
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