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Thread: Heavy 10 serpentine belt??
01-28-2007, 10:14 AM #1
Has anyone installed a serpentine belt on their heavy ten lathe? If so can you tell me which belt you used? It looks like one could be used if the spindle is removed. Is this correct? Thanks, dave
01-28-2007, 11:31 AM #2
I would love to hear of a serpentine conversion. My 10L slips all over the place. New belt didn't really help either.
01-28-2007, 12:43 PM #3
"looks like one could be used if the headstock is removed."
You don't need to remove the headstock.
Wait, back up a bit there.
The absolute correct statement is, even if
you *do* remove the headstock you still cannot
thread an endless belt throught the cutouts
in the bed, where the existing belt goes right
So you'll still need to cut the belt and splice
it. Others here have done this with good
01-28-2007, 03:53 PM #4
I'am doing mine this week with a 7 rib and permatex glue for all plastics. i'll let you know how it works out.
02-03-2007, 12:47 AM #5
Got it done, so far so good ran it on highest speed for 2 hours after drying for 5 minutes. worked great so far. used a gates k070683 belt cut it and that gave me about 8" of overlap. what I did was ground the belt on the oposite sides of each other down to just touching the reenforcement cords, (fiberglass?) and only slightly tapered the last inch on each end. the glue is Dr. Bond plastic bonder made by permatex. I think it is just super glue with a bottle of activator. If I have to redo later for any reson I'am going to use the barge glue that I used on my leather belts previously (never going back). started by covering both newly exposed areas with the activator and let it dry for 30 seconds, then we put the first inch together with the glue, aligning the edges real good. after that dried for 30 seconds we continued up 3 inchs at a time to make shure we didn't have any weak spots. the belt dried for 5 minutes and then we hit it hard on high speed and let it go for two hours... so far so good, and it doesn't slip...at all. the belt is a seven rib 24 mm/ 15/16 wide by 1750mm or 68-7/8 inch long belt. it was a reasonably priced 7 rib, around mid 20's at carquest in my area. they carry the plastic bonder also for about four bucks. you might want to go alittle longer just to make shure you have got enough belt to work with, good luck, Tony. [img]smile.gif[/img]
02-07-2007, 07:29 PM #6
Great work Tony! How did you grind the belt down.
Do you have a special jig? Just noticed your high speed pulley. Did it get chewed up by a bad belt?
02-07-2007, 08:26 PM #7
Thanks for following-up, Tony. More flat belt users need to be aware that there is a much better alternative to the leather or rubber/fabric belts. Like you said, they don't slip... at all. (Well, they do, but only when you need them to.)
If any of you can't find this type of belt locally, or you just like ordering stuff from McMaster-Carr, here is the belt that I got for my lathe. This is a 10-rib, as opposed to a 7-rib, and very good quality with lots of "gription":
02-07-2007, 11:48 PM #8
Isn't that pulley something, I got the lathe this summer from a machinery dealer in milwaukee loaded with tooling, turrets, collets etc. for 800 buck's. it was owned by Massy-Ferguson and the only thing I can figure it some one with a wise idea thought that grooving the pulley would give it more bite, dont think he was the sharpest tool in the shed! I think he took out about 35% of the surface area as a result, I have another pulley but havent had time to pull the head stock all the way down yet. just got done machining some 304 stainless all day on the lathe and the belt worked perfect, nothing coming apart the only slip was from my twin v belts on the motor when I got carried away on a cut, I think that was protection from natural selection trying to work [img]smile.gif[/img] this really is a 150% improvement over the leather belt and doesn't even need very much tension to work. I just used my bench grinder to get to the renforcement area, we have every tool you could want and that just plain worked the best. it does take all the frustration out of using the lathe!.
good luck, Tony
02-08-2007, 12:08 AM #9
thanks for the info Paula, I just did this one quickly as a experiment and it's working out way better than I could have ever expected. I figured the glue would let loose but is working great....so far. I have the v groove pulleys on my nine a home and think this works even better, runs smoother. now I can get back to the metric threads again. I just redid my apron and complete cross slide yesterday, found a new ball bearing big dial cross slide screw for 65.00 buy it now on ebay there was two and lucky for me I got the second one, didn't hesitate on that one. wow what difference.
02-08-2007, 12:34 AM #10Isn't that pulley something,
02-08-2007, 01:29 AM #11
OK you rib belt guys, let me get this straight...
Do you run the belt with the ribs towards the
pulley, or the flat part towards the pulley?
And why, for whichever it is?
And next, from the description, it sounds like
the joint was mostly a plain lapped joint, with
a bit of taper on the very ends. Correct?
Jim (pondering what to do when his 10L will
need a new belt)
02-08-2007, 02:03 AM #12
Hi Jim , ribs down the top side is covered in a glossy covering. I did do a mostly lap joint due to the length of the joint and wanted to get to the reinforcement cloth to have a different surface for the glue to bond with. the reason I did this was I didnt trust the glue and figured the more surface area the longer the super glue would hang in with all the flexing. Iam really trying to break it right now while I dont have anything critical in the works, but you know what, she's looking pretty darn good right now. I really pulled some crap with it today and nothing happened. I was thinking of using the barge cement for the flex capabilties but the drying time is so long I just gave the plastic glue a shot 30 seconds and your in business. the other thing I was going to try was tire patch glue but that is probably the same as barge or very close. the research continues....need a slightly used leather belt [img]smile.gif[/img]
02-08-2007, 09:15 AM #13
We tried this on a friends 10L but did not have success. The glue held but the belt broke right next to the glue joint. I thought we had thined the belt too much but Tony's belt looks much thinner. Maybe we should try again. Gary P. Hansen
02-08-2007, 10:49 AM #14
Thanks folks - time for a trip to the car
parts store. I think my cataract bench lathe
is going to be the victim of some experimentation!
02-08-2007, 09:17 PM #15
2ND full day machining, all o.k., true 16 hours of loaded run time. [img]smile.gif[/img]
02-09-2007, 01:35 PM #16
In the McMaster-carr chart above, Paula, how is belt length determined?
Is the "outer circle" specification the circumference so for a 58" belt one listed as 58.5" or bigger for the new joint the right one to get? I do like ordering from M-C, but don't like having to return stuff and usually won't resulting in piles of wrong pieces that sit in mute testimony to my stupidity.
edit: nevermind, I just noticed the little drawing at the top of the page (duh)
02-09-2007, 03:06 PM #17
Ken, I don't like returning stuff either, but I will do it occasionally. M-C is excellent about returns, though I don't like to abuse the privelege, as I'm sure some do.
02-10-2007, 11:43 AM #18
Just to add a little here. Yesterday I got the "NBR Rubber heavy duty flat belt from McMaster-Carr 18 ribs and 1-1/4 wide. I will try to get it on my lathe today or tomorrow and let everyone how it works. I have loked at all the posts on here concerning flat belt. Just thought I would give this belt a try.
02-10-2007, 12:46 PM #19
just a quick note, wear glove's! this is messy, also I went through two tubes of glue and activator,make shure the first part is dead straight, have two people . I figured out my length of overlap and then had the belt over all the way to the left on the pulley mounting shaft so I had some room to work with on top. cover both ends with the activator while it is off the lathe. I wouldn't try doing the glue more than a couple of inches at a time, it's dry in 10 seconds anyhow that way you have trouble with air pockets. there isn't enough time to clamp you just have to use your fingers and again wear gloves...really!. yesterday was day three of full use and still looks great, I think the lap joint on the reinforcement area is working great due to the two different surfaces. I dont think the glue would have held as well on just the rubber, but I could be wrong (and useally I'am) but you never know. the only thing I would do differently now is add just a little more scarf to ease the transision areas a little more.
good luck to everyone trying this, it has worked better than we could have ever hoped for and has really made the lathe 100% perfect to use. I really would like to hear how it's working for other's and any changes you made.
[ 02-10-2007, 10:03 PM: Message edited by: 540i928 ]
02-10-2007, 01:00 PM #20
Tony, did you grind down half of each side,
with a bench grinder - by hand? What tool
did you use for that?
I've got the 1" wide gates belt from the
car parts store (the longest one they had,
might be enough for two belts for the bench
lathe) but they did not have the plastic
bonding cement from permatex you mentioned.
However they did have some 'weatherstripping
adhesive' which was similar stuff, comes with
two tubes of activator liquid. I've got plenty
of belt, so a test will be in order.
The only question would be, what tool to lap
the belt with.
The cataract lathe will be easy to do, most
of the belt's out in the open. If I can do that,
then the 10L would be next.