Heavy 10 serpentine belt?? - Page 6
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  1. #101
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    I have put some time on the serpentine belt above. I have been making some delrin bushings. The first operation is to drill a 11/16 hole through the center of a piece of 1 1/4 delrin rod to a depth of 1 1/2 inches. Another operation includes taking a 0.125 cut in one pass along 1 inch of the outside of the rod. The belt has handled 20 of each of these operations with no problems.

  2. #102
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    Today I was .40" into the face of a 5" cast iron disc and was mystified when my lathe began to slow halfway through the cut. It made it through but the counter on the VFD dropped from a normal 600 to a worrisome 420 with no change in the setup or operation. It never did that before and I was thinking about what might be running hot and about to sieze. But my handy laser thermometer showed everything normal, nothing warm much less hot.

    Then it dawned on me that a load like that would have caused my old belt to slip and even slide off it's pulley but this new serpentine belt was hanging in - not slipping or bringing any reason to stop. I'd slowed down my motor by the good traction of the belt.

    This serpentine belt idea has much worth and I'm a believer now for sure.

  3. #103
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    Default

    GATES MICRO-V BELTS BY SIZE

    Above is a link to the Gates Micro-V belt size page. The fist few pages are the ribbed belts ordered by P/N, referencing the length & width. Then a few pages further in they are grouped by width & length, referencing a p/n.

  4. #104
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    Default Another sucessful Heavy Ten belt replacement adventure

    My leather belt split on my Heavy Ten this week. I searched and found this thread. Thanks to you all for documenting this materials and splicing procedure.

    Just to add a data point for this belt replacement thread, I used a Kelly-Springfield 830K8 belt (1.125" x 83") with 8 ribs. I cut the belt at 66" for a 6" overlap. I ground (60 grit 8"wheel, but that is a bit fine for this) both parts of the overlap joint to the cords similar to Tony's description, but "basically" no scarfing as it appeared unnecessary. The glue was the previously suggested (Paula) Loctite Super glue for All Plastics and is really gluing the cords together instead of rubber. I glued about 1 1/2" sections to gether at a time and no clamping other than fingers (from which 2 days later I'm still pulling glue off my fingers). I have a small amount of misalighment of about 1/16" over the 6" of lap, but it is tracking fine.

    For this 1942-3 era Heavy Ten, the belt adjustment is a bit above center, a little on the tighter side. I think a 61" would have put it in the center of the adjustment screw. In any event, I did wrap the belt around the pulleys before cutting and 60" is just fine.

    - Reed
    Raleigh, NC

  5. #105
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    My overlaps were a lot shorter, about 1.5 inches or so.

    One thing you should realize is you can run the belt tension a *lot* less
    than the old leather belt. I think that tends to put less stress on the
    joint. But you still get way more traction there.

    Jim

  6. #106
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    Default belt tension difference

    Jim,

    Yes, I noticed that right away, although I was expecting that from the thread. :-) Although, after the old oil soaked leather, *any* new belt would be an improvement in traction. Obviously I don't have that issue on the gearheads. :-) I keep it setup with the lever 5C closure and it is used mostly for collet work so I seldom need to remove much material.

    About this SB10L - it also came with the lever operated cross slide, a production turret, and odles of chucks/bars/collets-holder/faceplates/tapor-attachement/etc. It also has a Shooting Star 2 DRO installed. This guy is a fun and versatile machine to use.

    After doing the gluing and using it for some hours now, I suspect a shorter overlapped joint like yours would do quite well as you mentioned.

    Thanks, - Reed

  7. Default belt splice

    at the risk of asking a dumb question what effect if any does the extra thickness at the splice have ? i have tried a flat car belt and spliced it with the same staple as the leather belt so far so good but i dont think it will last . jacques

  8. #108
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    Jacques, if you grind down to the cords like the last poster, I would assume each end is about half thickness. The joint should end up the same thickness as the belt, same thing if you do a scarf joint.
    James

  9. #109
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    The assumption is correct, and the finished lapped joint is the same thickness as the belt. It is still working fine.

    Egads, so many emoticons to choose from . . . I need 2 screens to see them all, . well, maybe 1 1/2 screens.

    - Reed

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Randall View Post
    Jacques, if you grind down to the cords like the last poster, I would assume each end is about half thickness. The joint should end up the same thickness as the belt, same thing if you do a scarf joint.
    James

  10. #110
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    Default scarfing a belt

    easy way to scarf a belt .....use a belt sander, a piece of 2x4 and sand the 2x4 to about a 12 to 1 scarf...put belt underneath and sand..hope this helps.

  11. #111
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    This has probably been mentioned before, but I found out the hard way how to glue the belt splice successfully. On my first two attempts I tried to apply the glue to the whole joint at once before actually mating the halves - both times the joint eventually failed. Then I read somewhere on this forum where a guy just glued a short segment at a time and when I tried that it worked great. My belt has about a 4" lap joint - I applied the activator to both surfaces before I even wound the belt around the pulleys, and then only glued about an inch or less at a time, using hand pressure to set the joint before moving on. I think what happened before was that the glue had time to partially dry before I could get the belt halves joined (my lathe is an underdrive model) so it didn't hold. The joint done this way is more flexible and looks like it will never come apart.

    So if any one out there has had trouble with the glue not holding, give this a try.

    Also don't forget to get your belt used from your favorite auto mechanic. Better free than spending $$ to get a new one. I found this out the hard way too! :-)

    Blob

  12. #112
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    For those of you looking to to do the conversion, I have a bunch of Brand New belt I am trying to sell that might fit your application:

    http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb...ts-190596.html

  13. #113
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    Although I am a newbie to the forum I have experienced the same slippage problems
    with my heavy 10 underdrive belt as everyone else, but have solved it with a totally
    different method than the serpentine belt.
    Perforated "V" belt is open ended V belt with small hole perforations every 1/2" or so
    which is joined by a small metal screwed link piece at the desired belt length. It doesn't
    slip and it runs quiet, the only drawback is that you are restricted to only two section
    widths that will run down the belt passage without fouling the bed edge. That means if
    you want to use a decent size motor drive you have to use double pulleys as I have done with a 1.5hp dc motor which is on 3 to 1 reduction as it is fully variable and no
    pulley change for speed range apart from the back gear.
    I did this conversion over a year ago and have used the lathe quite a lot, I have not yet needed to adjust the belts and the link connectors are as new.
    The pulleys are quite cheap to buy and you need to machine the spindle cone to take
    the V pulley, the perforated belt is quite expensive but if it does the job with a long lifespan it will be worth it .

  14. #114
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    After three attempts at glueing the belt for my heavy ten I gave up on the glues. I tried the ones recomended in this thread to no avail. What I ended up doing is lacing the belt together with 80 Lbs Power Pro after drilling holes in the belt. The joint is VERY strong! No noise and the belt gribs like crazy. I put a drop of super glue on the knots just as insurance. This is what it looks like and the line I used.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails web-1.jpg   web-2.jpg  

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  16. #115
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    Jim,

    Be careful. I suggested doing stuff to a Cataract and that was upsetting to some folks :-)

    Ulf

    Quote Originally Posted by jim rozen View Post
    Thanks folks - time for a trip to the car
    parts store. I think my cataract bench lathe
    is going to be the victim of some experimentation!

    Jim

  17. #116
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    I finally got a serpentine belt on yesterday and took a couple sample cuts. Now before, I could get maybe a .050" cut (.025" per side) in steel. This was with a fiber replacement belt on. These cuts were in slow speed but not with the back gear in.
    I did take a .050" per side or .100" overall cut yesterday and no slippage but, the one horse Harbor freight motor did slow down noticeably. I don't think I will be anywhere close to taking .400" per cut with this machine. Serpentine belt or not.

    Would love to see videos of these guys taking those cuts though. That would be impressive on these little machines.

  18. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by danski26 View Post
    After three attempts at glueing the belt for my heavy ten I gave up on the glues. I tried the ones recomended in this thread to no avail. What I ended up doing is lacing the belt together with 80 Lbs Power Pro after drilling holes in the belt. The joint is VERY strong! No noise and the belt gribs like crazy. I put a drop of super glue on the knots just as insurance. This is what it looks like and the line I used.
    I am giving this method a try, I attempted to glue mine, and the glue held, but the thin joint just busted.

  19. #118
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    I have an old S/B 10 it's been collecting dust for awhile now. I think we will clean it up and give this a go.

  20. #119
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    I did mine a few weeks ago with the loctite. Been holding fine.

  21. #120
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    I did mine with a belt from a John Deere excavator. I'll get two belts from that one belt. I used 50# braided fishing line and my own stitching pattern.

    One concern I had with running the serpentine belts is with running the ribs down. My belt is not glazed on the backside. I run mine smooth side down. It seems to have as much traction as it did the other way but will not wear into the pulleys. The ribbed side down will eventually do that. I work on heavy equipment for a living and several of our machines run serpentine belts ribbed side in on their idlers. Over time these idlers do get quite grooved. Just my .02 worth, though.


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