Heavy 10 serpentine belt?? - Page 7
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  1. #121
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    Reviving this after 3 years with a question I did not see answered.
    I just bought a cabinet-mount 10L (and a 10K) and both need belts.
    I have used automotive micro-V belts on a couple of non-SB lathes in the past, but I did not skive them. I just pulled the spindle and the countershaft and mounted a correct-length belt. Worked great.

    So what is it about the 10L that prevents one from installing an uncut belt?

  2. #122
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    The headstock of the 10L has a large internal web in the casting -- Just under the spindle cone. Can't get around it.

    [I am not happy with my glued serpentine belt, and did not like the 'custom' belt on eB-eh (Seemed too light and slippy). At this point, I'm ready to go back to leather.]

  3. #123
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    Has anyone ever tried a PowerTwist interlocking belt or similar product on one of these? I just picked up a 10L with no drive belt. After reading this old thread I’ll probably try gluing or lacing a Gates belt but looking at my options. I don’t see anything bigger than 5/8” but maybe 2 x 1/2” ??

  4. #124
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    I asked about using an interlocking belt a while back, and was quickly shot down. The reply was that they're made for V pulleys. I think the top of the interlocking belts are flat; maybe they could be used upside down. I have an automotive serpentine belt on my 10L. I had no luck gluing the belt, so I used hog clips. Ugly, but they work. I have a clipper lacer tool now, so I'll try that next time. I'd be interested to hear is anyone tries interlocking belts.

  5. #125
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    why on earth would you use a link belt on a flat belt 10L????

    The link belt will cost nearly as much as a new synthetic flat belt from Al Bino or Baltimore Belting, and won't run worth a damn in comparison.

  6. #126
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    So you don’t have to have a spliced belt.

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indirtwetrust View Post
    So you don’t have to have a spliced belt.
    So you're saying that a hundred splices are better than one?

  8. Likes iwananew10K liked this post
  9. #128
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    a link belt is a spliced belt...one about every inch or so.

    perhaps you are unaware of the clipper style flat belts?

  10. #129
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    I was kind of unaware of flat belts in general before I got this lathe. It’s just that it would be nice to get a belt on it to run it and play with it a little bit before tearing it down and rebuilding it. I did look up the clipper lacing, I like that it makes the belt removable. Does anyone sell a rubber belt with lacing ready to go? Do they run smooth with that lacing or does it tick going over the sheaves?

  11. #130
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    Sorry for the delayed response.

    Yes, you can buy one ready to go. Al Bino belts or Baltimore Belting.
    Baltimore was a little better on pricing last I checked...plan on about 60 bucks for one...that might seem expensive at first but it will probably last longer than you do.
    The metal clips do make a little tick, no getting around that, but you get used to it pretty quick...in my case even grow to appreciate it, let me
    know all was well. Depending on the condition of your gear train you may not even hear the tick, it's not loud.

  12. #131
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    I tried skiving and gluing a Serpentine belt with limited success.
    That means that the join broke eventually. So I bought a new
    serpentine belt. Cut it to the right length, drilled holes in
    the grooves and laced it up with about 40 lb test braided nylon
    fishing line. The grooves go against the pulley surface so the
    line runs up the groove and out through the drilled hole and can
    cross over to the next grove on the outside of the belt.
    Just like leather lacing a flat belt. It's been holding up
    for about 3 years now. So I'm satisfied. And you can always
    remove the belt and relace if you need to for any reason,
    unlike a skived and glued belt.
    Larry S

    edit: I used a heavy upholstery needle to run the line through
    the drilled holes int he belt.


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