What's new
What's new

Heavy 10R build

Red1fire

Aluminum
Joined
Oct 14, 2015
Hello, just thought I would post some picts and thoughts on my SB 1947 heavy 10R rebuild. This is what im starting with minus the doors and panels they were drying from a final coat. I made a nut in 45 minutes flat. lol I'm sure its capable of producing them a lot quicker I will need some practice.


IMG_0758.jpgIMG_0521.JPG
 
Primed the doors last week and finished the tail stock. The quill was broken and re welded so picked up a new piece and put it back together. IMG_0766.jpgIMG_0600.jpgIMG_0586.jpg
 
Lathe doors and panels finished. Im pretty happy with the results so far...



IMG_0940.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0940.jpg
    IMG_0940.jpg
    39.6 KB · Views: 171
Just took apart the spindle head and thoroughly cleaned will be ready for tape and a primer coat tonight. Soaked the spindle head in mineral spirits for 2 days and cleaned/re greased the back gear and inner spindle w/super lube. applied oil to the thrust bearings and should have it together later this week.

IMG_0941.jpg
 
Picked up an original SB 4 position tool post on fleabay and after around 2 or three uses the tightening lever went limp I promptly disassembled and found a jury rigged piece of metal meant to make up for the play in the tightening cam. Boxed it up and it went back to the seller. Intentional? Hmmm... I've since moved to an Aloris BXA tool holder. Been real happy with it...

IMG_0670.jpg
 
Last edited:
Spindle head is back together and everything looks tight. Going to reassemble the lathe so I can get some turning time. Will probably disassemble next week and start on the gear box. more pictures to come. Any advise on the gear box rebuild would be much appreciated. Would like to give a shout out to Ted, "AKA" Southbendlatheman for the awesome spindle adapter. figured I would find 6 sets of hens teeth before I found an 1-7/8" spindle adapter, Thanks Ted.


IMG_0961.jpg
 
Looks good. What is a spindle adapter?

On the gear box, make sure to label the bronze bushings and take note of what hole they came out of. Don't ask me how I know... Also, if at all possible, reassemble the gear box before you paint it. With all of the press work that has to be done, you will mess the paint up.
 
Thanks again Ted, OBTW I've got a question. I have a 3/4" efem type D geometric head. Will 9/16" type D chasers interchange with my 3/4" die Head?
 
Thanks for the advise on the gear box. When to paint was a question I had since there are tons of taper pins and what looks to be some arbor press work. May paint the inside of the gearbox first what do you think?
 
Picked up a nice 6 jaw buck chuck w/out a back plate from a local industrial surplus warehouse and found an original unturned SB 8" 1-7/8" x 8tpi back plate on fleabay. Found a local machine shop willing to fit this to the back plate which entailed adding a piece of steel to the back plate and adjusting it to the chuck. It wasn't a difficult job but it was a small job and it didn't seem like any other local shops would touch it. They had it back to me same day for under 100.00 With that kind of service I feel the need to mention the shop for anyone in central Florida looking for a local machinist willing to do the small stuff. K&M machine shop, Mathew is who I spoke with, he and Kincaid are co-owners of the shop and I felt right at home as soon as I walked through the doors. Thanks guys, I've been itching to use this chuck...

IMG_0960.jpg
 
Just reassembled the spindle head, time to cut some metal... Was thinking about applying some clear lacquer on the brass and any exposed bolt heads that have been polished. Has anyone had any experience with this.

IMG_0966.jpg

IMG_0967.jpg

IMG_0968.jpg
 
Will do thanks for the input. BTW I've heard of people running into trouble with taper pins, not knowing they were there and pressing the hang out of the shaft only to find hidden taper pins. Did you run into any trouble in that regard.
 
What a nice job so far! That machine looks brand new. I have one similar that appears to be a 1941 model based off of the serial numbers. Is it possible your machine might be a little older or have had a headstock swap? The reason I ask is because of the cast iron segmented head stock bearings. I thought they moved to insert bearings during WWII. I'm not 100% but I thought I had read that somewhere. Also the way the gear box tumbler handle is designed can tell a lot as well. Earlier models had the tumbler gear only supported by the bolt. The gear and bolt spun in a precision bore in the handle. Later single tumbler gb had the idler supported on both sides with an additional ear cast into the handle assembly. The gear on those models had a small bearing pressed into the gear.

My machine was of the earlier variety and the tumbler handle had been broken in a crash(before I owned the machine). I am hoping to swap gear boxes and or handles to the later single tumbler handle.

I am fairly new to all of this but have been looking at any and all historical info on these machines I can find. I was able to determine my parts were original because I could personally talk to the owner of the previous 50.+ years. Also most of the major parts had a defense plant number stamped on them. Even the collets had been marked, dating it to WWII.

Enough about my machine, yours looks awesome. Can't wait to see it running that six jaw making chips!
 
Not with the taper pins but I missed a set screw on a shaft and broke the housing alittle when I was hammering it out. the problem I had with taper pins was figuring out which way they went. Some of them were really hard to tell which end was which.
 
Thanks, It's been an enjoyable build so far. called grizzly/SB and the serial numbers dated it at 47. Not sure if the head was replaced or not the spindle diameter is 1-7/8" that may help date the head?
 
Thanks for the heads up on the gear case I'm going to go very very slow brass hammers and arbor press only if possible.
 








 
Back
Top