Help! 9A Clutch Will Not Disengage!

Hoping for some insight.
Don't see how these "events" could be linked, but could be wrong...
A couple of days ago I removed the carriage handwheel (blocked underneath the apron housing, then tapped out the taper pin) because I had a bug up my azz to polish it as I'd never done it when I restored the lathe a couple of years ago.

Did that, slipped it back on and tapped the taper pin back in place.

Try to do some turning/threading today, and the clutch will not disengage from either the X or Y feed.
Like a dummy in a hurry (which I was), thought it may have been "stuck" and put a pair of pliers on the star wheel to get a better grip as it was oily. Turned counter clockwise with fairly light pressure but enough to promptly snap the left-hand thread screw.

So I found a replacement LH screw on Fleabay, no luck on a clutch shaft. This is used in my shop several days a week, gotta get it fixed FAST. I would love to NOT have to spend an entire day tearing the apron apart ( I need to move a safe that's located at the end of the lathe bed to be able to slid the apron off...).

Any suggestions for removing the LH screw that's snapped off inside the clutch shaft? E-Z outs are designed for RH thread, and no used clutch shafts on Fleabay. Thinking about putting the shaft vertically in the mill and trying to mill it out to the minor OD and (hopefully) pick out the threads after?

Any idea what's caused this and how to fix?

Drill out the left hand threaded bolt and tap it 10-32 rh grade 8 perhaps. Use it as a permanent repair, locktite or whatever. Or use the rh bolt to extract the left hand bolt...

If you hold your mouth just right, drilling the broken bolt might just extract it if the drill bit bites into the broken piece - right hand drill, left hand thread, presto! Maybe.

johansen said:

Drill out the left hand threaded bolt and tap it 10-32 rh grade 8 perhaps. Use it as a permanent repair, locktite or whatever. Or use the rh bolt to extract the left hand bolt...

Click to expand...

I'm assuming the LH thread was intended to keep the clutch knob from unscrewing when loosened...wouldn't RH threads on this cause a problem?

Well, there's no other choice but to pull the apron now that I effed up the screw, so apart it comes. Not sure if I can drop the leadscrew support, saddle lock bolt and the two large saddle screws and slide it off, or if the cross-slide gear will require sliding it all off. About to find out.

I'm going to try an 1/8' drill bit in the mill assuming I can get it all apart; if that fails I'll need to order a 1/8" carbide end mill. Smallest I have is 5/32" and it's a bit too large.

I have a complete apron I was saving for a rainy day... I can get any part you need out tomorrow in the mail. Send me a private message if you are interested.

^^^
Thank you for the very generous offer!
Fortunately, the drill bit worked...
Set the shaft vertically in the mill vise, used a carbide burr to clean up the end of the snapped screw and give the drill bit a center hole. The skinny 3/32" bit snapped almost as soon as it "bit"- but it broke the screw looss and the broken stub of the drill bit was enough to grab and back it out the rest of the way...

Pulled the apron (easier than I thought, slid right out without needing to mess with the saddle), clean as a whistle and I have no idea what caused the clutch not to release.

My guess: hammering on the taper pin for the handwheel a few days earlier with the clutch disengaged may have allowed the shoe(s) to pop out of position and jam up? Anyway, thinking I'll bypass making a new cork gasket for times sake and just use blue RTV gasket maker on the trough cover.

Now, just gotta wait for that stoopid LH screw...next time I need to cool down before I start wrenching on stuff

... My guess: hammering on the taper pin for the handwheel a few days earlier with the clutch disengaged may have allowed the shoe(s) to pop out of position and jam up?

Click to expand...

That's my guess. Was the back cover loose?