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Barrel (gunsmithing) Spider for Heavy 10

sbrmike

Plastic
Joined
Oct 6, 2010
Location
PA
OK I have posted this in the Gunsmithing Forum and have no responses. There is one pictured in the What Have You Made forum, but no specifics.

I was wondering what guys were using as barrel spiders on their South Bend Heavy 10.

My Heavy 10 has the 2-1/4" - 8 TPI Headstock Spindle with the 1-3/8" through hole.

I guess I will rephrase my query as to is it possible/practical to drill and tap 4 holes 90 degrees apart on the outboard side of the Headstock Spindle? I am wondering how hard the Spindle actually is. I am not opposed to using a new carbide bit and a new carbide tap for each hole as it will be a one time investment, but if others have tried and failed, I would not attempt it either.

Let me know what others have done for this situation. I knew one guy who used rubber sleeves around the barrel to stabilize them in the headstock spindle.
 
spider

I think Grizzly has a chuck mounting plate with a spider mount in it. Grizzly is really into gunsmithing because the owner competes internationly. Check it out.
 
I don't have a heavy 10, but most of the ones I've seen used a separate spider that was held on to the end of this spindle with set screws or such.

I don't think you should try to drill the spindle.

I don't do gunsmithing work so I don't need the accuracy that a spider would give but there are times that I do need to support a long part. I have used two methods, the first simply wrapped tape around the part being worked on until you build up enough to be tight in the spindle. I have also used brass tubes "available at your local hobby shop" to take up the difference. These brass tubes fit snugly inside each other and can be a bit more accurate than tape. Both of these methods work well for general turning, but not accurate enough for gunsmithing work.

promacjoe
 
Another solution - - -

Is to make a spider for the tail of the spindle like the one Grizzly has on their Gunsmith Lathe to be used along with your 4 jaw or whatever holding device you are using. I made one for mine but made it too short; would have had to use it with the gear guard off, I didn't want to do that. There certainly are a few good reasons to have support at the rear of a spindle. The Spider I made slips over that nice flat surface on the tail of the spindle. I had 4 set screws accurately installed to be sure it would stay there.

My Spider was made by a friend in Michigan. He uses one on his much bigger lathe for the oposite reason, his spindle is too long. I could have made an extension for the spider I had but being able to do all the adjusting in my tracks was appealing. He didn't charge me much to make the spider and I think is is first class.

What would be nice is some sort of electronic device to do the zeroing for one, eh?

Of course, there are people who only zero the piece of the barrel facing them in the four jaw and depend on the barrel doing the rest. Both seem to work but then there are those AR folks among us and I ain't talking about the rifle!;)
 
2f0f5av.jpg


I have sold hundreds of these for the SB 10-L Kenny
 
I just bought a 3 inch piece of thick wall steel tubing 2.250 OD/ 1.500 $11.00. Did all the drilling and tapping on a drill press. Scribed a ring around the out side .375 from end on both ends using a bit and tool post. Then used a piece of steel under one of the jaws of a four jaw chuck scibed a cross line. Did this at all four jaws at both ends. Used 1/2-13 set screws on barrel end and 3/8-16 set screws on the spindle end. Then when to the drill press and finnish up the job. Turned Perfect and works great.
Chet
P9042876.jpg

P8242842.jpg

P8242843.jpg
 
Here is my little home built Drill Press. Completely worked over with adjustable bed height and indexable table. If you look real hard you will see a SBL 9 inch thust bearing for the hieght adjustment.
Chet
PB213047.jpg
 
Hello sbrmike, hobby gunsmithing is what brought me to PM. Please don't attempt to modify your actual spindle. I also have a heavy 10 with the same spindle you have. I made this (spider) adaptor to turn crowns and for chambering. The adaptor is about four inches long and I spaced the rear set of screws to be 1/32" from the threads of the spindle. I will probably make a second adaptor since I think I made the threads a little looser than a classification B fit, and the adaptor is about 1/2" longer than I wanted. I got the idea for making this adaptor by chance. I stopped by a a machine shop to ask a few questions about something or other. I got into a conversation with the owner about match shooting and he became excited that I had an interest in that sport. He briefly explained the actions but mostly fucused on his barrels. he explained that it takes him the better part of two hours to set up a barrel blank for chambering. I took a good look at his set-up and he suddenly had a few other things to do. I understand these guys work hard at what they do. It takes alot of work for a little gain. They don't like to give up secrets they spent years developing. I patterned my adaptor after his because it worked. The design was modified so I can use it as a chuck in the 10L. With little practice you can copy this simple idea. I used 5/8-18 X 1" set screws drilled with a 1/4" hole in the middle and a piece of brass pressed into them. Here's a picture of my freshly painted lathe with the adaptor installed.
Hyundai042.jpg


This picture reveals how cavernous the adaptor is. More than enough for just about every barrel I have ever seen.
Hyundai038-1.jpg

In case anyone wonders, I purposely left the belt cover unfinished to show what the machine looked like when I aquired it.
 
2f0f5av.jpg


I have sold hundreds of these for the SB 10-L Kenny

The gear cover on my 10L is a lot different from yours. I would have had to cut mine away for the adjusting screws to clear OR have made the Spider longer in the first place OR made a sleve- extender tube. The technology isn't very unique.

The fixture ahead of the spindle, however, to me seemed the perfect solution for my particular problem. I like it. I think it's a keeper.
 
I will look tomorrow

Nice SPIDER, Pete. Do you know who made that indicator stand shown in the pic? It looks a lot like one I have, of unknown manufacturer. It has green crinkle finish. Mags are weak on mine, thought I'd add some rare earths.

My shop is about 30 miles away ( In the Jointly Owned ex-marital property). I will look to see if it has a name but I bought it off ebay used. I would be willing to part with it ;).
 
Yours is very much like mine

Hello sbrmike, hobby gunsmithing is what brought me to PM. Please don't attempt to modify your actual spindle. I also have a heavy 10 with the same spindle you have. I made this (spider) adaptor to turn crowns and for chambering. The adaptor is about four inches long and I spaced the rear set of screws to be 1/32" from the threads of the spindle. I will probably make a second adaptor since I think I made the threads a little looser than a classification B fit, and the adaptor is about 1/2" longer than I wanted. I got the idea for making this adaptor by chance. I stopped by a a machine shop to ask a few questions about something or other. I got into a conversation with the owner about match shooting and he became excited that I had an interest in that sport. He briefly explained the actions but mostly fucused on his barrels. he explained that it takes him the better part of two hours to set up a barrel blank for chambering. I took a good look at his set-up and he suddenly had a few other things to do. I understand these guys work hard at what they do. It takes alot of work for a little gain. They don't like to give up secrets they spent years developing. I patterned my adaptor after his because it worked. The design was modified so I can use it as a chuck in the 10L. With little practice you can copy this simple idea. I used 5/8-18 X 1" set screws drilled with a 1/4" hole in the middle and a piece of brass pressed into them. Here's a picture of my freshly painted lathe with the adaptor installed.
Hyundai042.jpg


This picture reveals how cavernous the adaptor is. More than enough for just about every barrel I have ever seen.
Hyundai038-1.jpg

In case anyone wonders, I purposely left the belt cover unfinished to show what the machine looked like when I aquired it.



EXCEPT, mine is made of Alumeum and has a much smaller I.D.. I don't know if that is good or bad but it is what it is. I think the "Maker" bored a piece of billet and added the adjusting screws. I sent him my 4 Jaw backing plate and he did the deal.
 
I thought about making it out of aluminum. Luckily I had a nice piece of mild steel of the right size to make it so that was the deciding factor. I'm now working on an adapter that will be mounted at the end of the spindle bore to support a barrel as it's sticking out of the back end. I'm planning to use the the three screw holes that are already present in the back part of the spindle to mount the adapter. It will look much like cisero's piece.
 
spider/cat head

I have a reverse version of these things that allows me to face off 6" pipe between centers in my 13.I call it a cat head,although mine is 4 bolts not 3 as would give the "cat head " appearance.The thing rides on a mandrel.
 
spider

Hello,
Thanks for this spider post i'm a hobby smith to from AR's to bolt guns
i have a 13 myself , does anyone think if you run just the spiders off both ends of the spindle that you will get any severe viberations in the machine by not having the weight of a chuck on the end of the threaded spindle ?
i was going to make a spider out of 1" aluminum turn it down to six inches in diameter drill and thread my four spider legs and mount the spider to the faceplate with four mounting bolts. but i really like the idea of just mounting the inside threaded spider 2 1/4 X8 on the spindle you can gain another inch of useable space for working with shorter barrels by eliminating the faceplate .
Thanks for any replies
Jess
 








 
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