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Info. on the Fourteen?

tobnpr

Hot Rolled
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
For sale locally:
Lathe - tools - by owner - sale

Looking for some comments from anyone that may have owned/operated one.
Not familiar with this model, a little research shows divergence of opinions on the Reeves drive. Beds were hardened, which is a plus. No specific details yet, don't see any tooling (not even a steady) and wondering if the asking is high (seems it might be to me). Is underside accessible only from the back?

Found spec on spindle bore, If anyone knows length of spindle (gunsmith application) it would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for any info.
 
For sale locally:
Lathe - tools - by owner - sale

Looking for some comments from anyone that may have owned/operated one.
Not familiar with this model, a little research shows divergence of opinions on the Reeves drive. Beds were hardened, which is a plus. No specific details yet, don't see any tooling (not even a steady) and wondering if the asking is high (seems it might be to me). Is underside accessible only from the back?

Found spec on spindle bore, If anyone knows length of spindle (gunsmith application) it would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for any info.
The FOURTEEN is a good lathe. Uses many of the same parts as the 13".
The spindle is kinda long... I can get the length if you need it.
Ted
BTW: I have a steady and follower rest for it :)
 
I'm familiar with the PM machines. If I'm going to buy a lathe without a warranty (parts are covered... Big deal) I'll buy used- hopefully American (or at least Taiwanese).

The thought of plugging in a brand new machine and having it not operate- and be forced to diagnose AND repair it myself just is not acceptable to me.
 
I have recently become the owner of a 14. I was not very familiar with this machine before buying this one, and I have to say I am impressed. I was looking for something with more spindle speed than my 16 to do some smaller work, and this machine runs to 1800 rpm. It does have a hard bed, and a camlock spindle. My machine has a production cross slide, the one in the ad you linked has a compound. Honestly, I have not missed the compound yet. The lathe runs like a champ, and has the typical Southbend ergonomics and ease of use. My machine needed no repairs and I was able to put it in service immediately. The drive unit works perfectly. I have a three jaw, but I mostly use a 4 jaw and collets.

The spindle is about 22 inches long.

One thing about the machine you linked. Since finding mine and looking around, I have found these lathes do not seem to bring anywhere near the money of a 13, or a 10L. I have seen a few machines in decent shape with some tooling/accessories bring $1000-1500. Keep that in mind when you make an offer.

I am sure you will like this machine. Please update us if you buy the lathe.

Best of luck to you!

Marc
 
The shop had one of these and it ran parts every day and sometimes for two shifts. It was equipped with a collet closer and used 5C collets.
All handles and knobs are within easy reach of the operator. Rotate the chuck to drop in Hi-Lo.
Replaced a bent shaft in the quick-change. Pop open the left end to expose the gear quadrant. See how the assembly is tightened in place. If it is tightened "just right" the quadrant will swing away and disengage when there is a feed overload. Too tight results in sheared keys or a bent cluster shaft.
There was wear on the bedways near the headstock and there was a twist in the bed. The twist may have been caused by the cabinet and how it sat on the floor.
Remove the front panel for maintenance or inspection of the Reeves-Drive. Change out those bolts to Allen-button head screws. Faster/easier with a long T-allen. The Hi-Lo limits for the drive are set by the location of two micro switches. Avoid the use of compressed air for floor cleaning. There is a motor driven plastic gear that will pickup debris.
The Reeves assembly has a part made like a collet. There are two slots milled into the O.D. for two drive keys. The weak point of the system is where the sides and bottom of the slot form a square corner. The original collet cracked right at the corners. Likely due to flipping the spindle from forward to reverse when tapping a gazillion parts. I made a replacement from 4140. Held the slot depth to ~0.045 of the original and put a radius in the corner of the slot and sent it out for hard chrome plating. Then ground the O.D. to suit. The original collet was hardened. The replacement with the chrome finish would be wear resistant. New keys were made from Delrin.
Inspect the cog drive belt that runs from the spindle to the gear box. Check the belt for missing pads. The idler bearing might need replacement.
The belt has to be loosened to check it.
The RPM gauge can be adjusted to reflect an approximate spindle rpm. This is done inside the electrical cabinet. Get the manual first.
I have a SB 13. The 'Fourteen' can get work done faster if it has the proper tools and accessories. Quick change tool post is a must have.
For threads or shafts it is a plus to have the follower and steady rest.
John
 
I just measured the bed of my machine (40" between centers) and it is about 58 inches long, depending on where you measure.

I also compared the length of the spindle to my 16's and a neighbors Clausing, this machine has the shortest spindle at 22 inches. I think you may need a much smaller machine to get a shorter spindle.

Hope it helps.

Marc
 








 
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